Author Topic: battery and fuses  (Read 1683 times)

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Offline cobra

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battery and fuses
« on: November 22, 2012, 07:28:48 AM »
I am getting towards the point, where i will be starting on the total loss system, on my CR750 lookalike, what i would like to know is, what lightweight battery should i be looking at buying,and as i am using a boyer system, the wiring shows a fuse in the system, but dosent give a value, can someone tell me what size fuse i should use, in a inline fuse holder, also, where is the best place to install the battery, and is it possible to fit one in the seat hump, the bike will only be used for parade laps,

Offline Sam Green Racing

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Re: battery and fuses
« Reply #1 on: November 22, 2012, 07:48:18 AM »
Tony, I made a small tray that sat on the back of the gearbox and lipped over the top rear engine bolt, the one that goes right through. The battery was just held in place with zip ties for easy removal.
I'm not sure what size the battery was but I'm sure someone will comment that has used their bike for similar running time.

Sam. ;)
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Offline iomtt9

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Re: battery and fuses
« Reply #2 on: November 22, 2012, 08:14:48 AM »
Ask around first about total loss with boyer, i know a lot of folks who have problems with this set up. I am sure some one on here will agree with me, and probably disagree to . Hope it works out though,
Col

Offline Sam Green Racing

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Re: battery and fuses
« Reply #3 on: November 22, 2012, 08:30:21 AM »
agree      0

disagree 1

Sam. ;D
C95 sprint bike.
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RS 175. sprint/land speed bike
JMR Racing CB750A street ET drag bike

Offline bwaller

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Re: battery and fuses
« Reply #4 on: November 22, 2012, 11:03:27 AM »
I can't answer to Colin's concern of total loss & Boyer but I can recommend a couple things. I now run t-loss on my 550 with a simple Suzuki GSX1100 transisterised ignition and 3ohm Dyna coils with an 8-cell lithium Ion battery. I haven't checked current draw with this ign but it is certainly less that the Dyna 2000 on there previously and under race conditions I have seen 30 minutes run time from a full charge. How much more time-unknown. I like these batteries, lighter indeed, but charge quickly too.

Mike Rieck mentioned recently on here installing an ignition relay. Do yourself a favour and do this. You undoubtedly have a kill switch, just use that to trigger the relay and get full voltage to the coils. Especially important running on battery power. The battery can be placed in the tail but run heavier wire to compensate. I use a 10amp inline fuse.


Offline lordmoonpie

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Re: battery and fuses
« Reply #5 on: November 22, 2012, 11:51:02 AM »
I ran total loss with the dyna 2000 this year in the IMO and it was flat in 40 minutes, not what I really wanted and that was with a chunky LiFePO4 battery. The issue with the dyna is it draws a lot of current for an igniton system. My experience of boyer is good tony as constant loss and if you want a tiny lithium Shorai battery, they are currently largely out of stock in Europe but I have a nice brand new 9ah in the box, totally new you can have for less than list. PM me if you're interested....
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Offline iomtt9

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Re: battery and fuses
« Reply #6 on: November 22, 2012, 12:40:19 PM »
Hi all , i ran Dyna 2000 at the MGP this year. Total loss on a 8 amp hr battery, so 4 laps 152 miles or there abouts, ran the Honda with fireblade coils .No problems what so ever. So we all have our stories to tell, about the mates who had probs with total loss on their race bikes, a few of them ran the boyer on their road bikes and never had a problem. Seems they run ok with an alternator. S
eems like boyer winning at the mo !!!!
Col . any one going to the bike show . NEC ??? will be there Sat.