Topic: Bought a CB550k

[Tommy550]

Hey everyone,

Been lagging about putting up a post and especially taking pictures after today I showed up to take some with my new DSLR and realized I forgot the Memory Card 

I bought the a 75 CB550k back in September, first time rider, and first motorcycle. I was actually recommended to this forum by a few people, including the person I bought it from. The reason I bought the 550 was because I was told it would be a lot less heavy than a 750, or anything higher, and that it would be a great first bike to ride, and learn on. So, I just bought all my gear, took the motorcycle classes here in California, and am going to the DMV tomorrow to apply for my license.

CB550K
52k miles (I know, I know)


With all this being said and done, it's time I start learning my first bike, working on it, fixing it up, and of course with your guys help.

1.) I needed a new rear tire, and was told by the owner the rim is very thin and I should actually replace the whole wheel and rim. SO, I ordered a "1976 Super Sport 550F ASG1" on eBay and its on its way. I should've posted here before I bought it, is this thing even going to fit? Or am I going to have to throw it on craigslist?

2.) I was also told the brake lines should be replaced and brake pads. So, I bought some brake pads and steel braided brake lines for the clubman handle bars. Is there anything I should look out for while replacing these?

3.) I wont lie, but the seat is pretty high, both my feet cant even touch the ground and I'm 5'9 + the back is lowered. It looks like the original one too, I could be wrong. I dont like how the seat kinda have a very low 'V' shape to it, if it was straight it would look better. I kinda want a new seat, but I've seen some cafe's with some good looking seats, and really uncomfortable looking ones too haha. Just me?

4.) After two months of it sitting in the garage while I've been saving up for all my gear and parts, I tried to turn the bike on and it wouldn't start, even with the choke on. Soon after, battery died..I'm going to buy a battery this paycheck, anything else I can test myself to make sure everything else is working to get it started?

5.) When I first bought the bike, when the bike was turned on it would have a really low idle and turn off on me even after 15 minutes of it being on. Anything to fix this?

6.) If I wanted to rebuild the engine to put it at 0k miles and clean out the whole engine, how much am I looking to spend? How many days/hours of time?

I look forward to your guys replies, and coming into this new community and meeting some cool forum members here! 

Dont worry I'll get better and new pics up asap!

[dave500]

gday tommy,with the battery also buy a cheap digital multimeter,you can use this to check the battery is actually being charged once the bike is running,,these bikes dont charge real well under say 2500/3000 rpm,,they charge better with the headlight off around town stop/start riding,they wont idle well when cold either untill really warmed up from being ridden,dont baby the engine these like to rev and it wont hurt them.

[KCbarsos]

hey tommy, welcome! you might start here http://www.sohc4.net/index.php/cb550    .id also pick up a clymer manual. its easier than dragging the pc to the bathroom when you need some reading material  . im sure others will chime in with loads more help than i could provide. good luck and have fun! 

[matt mattison]

52k well maintained miles is fine, if the engine was neglected, that's a different story. If the present condition of your carbs are unknown, rebuild and clean them out. There are a few threads floating around here on how to do this correctly, don't short cut it. Then perform the 3k tune up as described in your new manual. Once you get it running well, do a diagnostic on the electrical/ charging system. Now that your bike is going, make sure it will stop . I would put a few miles on it (500 or so) before worrying about and compression or leak down tests. If the bike isn't blowing smoke (from oil burning) and is generally running well, there might not be a reason to do either test. Unless you want to satisfy your curiosity. An expensive engine rebuild might not be necessary, or it might be? You will figure that out. To rebuild it yourself count on spending anywhere from $500 up to $2500, depending on how far you need to go.

[DustyRags]

If it isn't starting, check your standards- is it getting fuel? Air? Spark? The fourth on the list is compression, but that's a bit more of a pain, so I'd start with the first three. Is your petcock open?

Next, twist your throttle with the engine off a few times to get some gas flowing into the carbs- my '76 550K sometimes needed that after it sat for a bit.

As for the slow idle, you may just need to adjust your idle screw. It's a thumb screw on top of the carbs. Right behind your right knee if you're sitting on the bike. Not sure why it'd die after 15 minutes, though. Is this with it idling or riding?

[Bootlegger56]

I dont know about the 76 550's but.....twisting the throttle on my 75K1 wont do any good....there is no accelerator pump.  I vote for the carb clean-out with new o-rings regardless of what's causing it not to start.  They are cheap at the o-ring store......and while I was into them on a bike with this much mileage I would check the needles and associated components for wear.  Our "luverly" fuel blends of this day and time do not age well in the aluminum float bowls.  As others have suggested there is a wealth of "how-to" just a search away on this site including the service manual.  Have fun and congrats.

[Stev-o]

Welcome. The rear wheel is thin?  I don't understand.

When the wouldn't start, don you mean it would not electrically crank over?  If your battery was dead, it may not provide enough power for spark to start.

Did you let it idle or 15 min?  If yes, don't! 

[DustyRags]

Bootlegger- the 550 doesn't have an accelerator pump either, but it seems to break the suction or something. Maybe it's all in my mind, but that always seemed to get the juices flowing a bit.

[cabrala]

Seems like there is quite a bit to sort through here. First and foremost I'd pick up a new battery; an AGM will be well worth your money. After that, take it slow and don't start fixing too many things at once or else you'll end up stuck in the corner with nothing to troubleshoot.

The "thin rim" thing is also quite odd to me. Is it possible for the metal to be thinning to some drastic point? The rims are naturally quite thin (in width) at 1.85", so in terms of modern bikes the tires that fit our wheels are skinny.

I have yet to fit my brake lines but it seems to be a pretty straight forward swap. In terms of pads, the static side is easily removable while the piston side will potentially require so pumping of the brake lever to push the pad completely out (be cautious of squirting brake fluid everywhere); keep a drip pan underneath. While apart you might want to replace the rubber seal; at the very least check it and read up on any type of brake grease you can apply to the caliper. Upon reassembly, use the white nylon washer on the back of the piston-side brake pad. When bleeding the brakes, never let the M/C go dry or low enough to suck in air. I have a SpeedBleeder and love it; you can find them on-line.

I'm not quite sure of the idle issue but post some more specifics and I'm sure someone will have some nugget of info for you.

Finally, I would advise you to not worry about zeroing out your motor. Take this project step-by-step. Get the bike running right and then go back (after miles of riding enjoyment) for a rebuild if that's what you desire. At least then most of the other 35 year old gremlins will be sorted.

Cheers on the new ride though. Welcome to the 550 family.

[DustyRags]

Hey Tommy, looks like you're local to me (I'm in Oakland)- I think I've still got some spare 550 brake pads sitting around if you want 'em. Also a spare tach that the new owner forgot to pick up... lemme know if you want them.

Also, check out Charlie's Place in SF- Charlie's a wizard with these old Hondas if you ever get in a jam and need a shop.

[TwoTired]

Bootlegger- the 550 doesn't have an accelerator pump either, but it seems to break the suction or something. Maybe it's all in my mind, but that always seemed to get the juices flowing a bit.

I'm afraid it's all in your mind.  Raising and lowering the carb slides while the engine isn't running does zilch for anything in the fuel path.  You'll get the same response if you toss a newt over your left shoulder at quarter past the hour on Wednesday mornings with odd numbered dates (except for leap years).

On the other hand, stroking the shaft during start up can make the bike feel smoother during the ride.  (another internet advisory)

 

[DustyRags]

Ooh, I'll have to try the newt thing! Does that work on Vulcans too? 

Seriously, though, I learned that "trick" from the PO when we got the old beast started after sitting for 6 months- seemed to work then, seemed to work after. What can I say, first bike and all that... Now I'm on my SECOND bike, and will certainly never make mistakes like this ever again.