Topic: What can anyone tell me about the 1984 Kawasaki KZ700? (bought it, need help)

[nitsua93]

I found this bike locally for $200. It has less than 3,000 miles, which is amazing. I really can't find much info on this bike, no horse power rating, shaft or chain drive, MPG, what they're worth fixed up, or if the motor is any good. I have read that the 700 had the same internals as the 750. The only difference is bore size, I think.


Here's the listing
http://tippecanoe.craigslist.org/mcy/3429481662.html

Tell me what you guys think! I'm going to walk in with the cash and check if motor is seized this week. It'll be fun to play with while my CB750 K7 is slowly being rebuilt. I'll sell the Kawasaki when the CB750 is done

[70CB750]

I would take it for the money.

http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/kawasaki_kz_700-a1_1984.php

[nitsua93]

I would take it for the money.

http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/kawasaki_kz_700-a1_1984.php

I've already ready that. The only info it had I previously couldn't find was the type of drive. I probably will take it. I can spend probably less than $100 dollars getting her running good and sell it for close to $1500

[Retro Rocket]

I would take it for the money.

http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/kawasaki_kz_700-a1_1984.php

I've already ready that. The only info it had I previously couldn't find was the type of drive. I probably will take it. I can spend probably less than $100 dollars getting her running good and sell it for close to $1500

From that link....

Transmission type,  final drive:   Chain

Also, if you click on the pic on that link, in the larger pic you can clearly see the chain guard and rear sprocket....

[ekpent]

Better git it before Rigid does,he lives right around there also 

[nitsua93]

I would take it for the money.

http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/kawasaki_kz_700-a1_1984.php

I've already ready that. The only info it had I previously couldn't find was the type of drive. I probably will take it. I can spend probably less than $100 dollars getting her running good and sell it for close to $1500

From that link....

Transmission type,  final drive:   Chain

Also, if you click on the pic on that link, in the larger pic you can clearly see the chain guard and rear sprocket....

You must have misread me. I said I DID find that info :p

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[Retro Rocket]

   oops

[joesmotos]

That KZ was one of those bikes that they made to beat the import tariff thing imposed back in the early 80's...essentially a KZ/GPZ 750 engine downsized to 700cc so Kawasaki wouldnt be hit with duties..one of Ronald Reagans things he had put into effect..i think Harley Davidson implemented it or had something to do with it,saying the japanese were dumping loads of cheap bikes here in the states and making it hard on their market(or something to that effect,i dont remember exactly..the tax was on bikes over 750cc i think...i worked in a Kawasaki dealer in those days and remember those bikes,im pretty sure Honda made some of the Interceptors 700cc at that time..and also built that assembly plant in Ohio so they could just build their big bikes here in the USA..and bypass the tax/duty thing.

So pretty much aside from the 50cc less displacement,it had all the same parts the 750 model had as far as i remember.

Those old inline 4 cylinder 750/650 Kawasakis were damn good bikes,the only major issue i remember them having was when the starter clutches went out you had to split the cases to get to the starter cluthc..it didnt sit on the end of the crankshaft like most bikes..i bet theres alot of those old bikes sitting in garages with that problem that never got fixed because of the labor involved(which,if you were a competent enough wrench,wasnt really all that bad,you yanked the motor out and flipped it over,pulled off the side covers,removed clutch assy,and removed the bottom case half to get to the tranny..then pulled out the shaft with the starter cluthc on it and replaced it and put it all back together..didnt have to disturb the top end stuff at all..

Sorry to babble on..just saw the post and thought i would toss in my two cents worth.
Joe

[nitsua93]

That KZ was one of those bikes that they made to beat the import tariff thing imposed back in the early 80's...essentially a KZ/GPZ 750 engine downsized to 700cc so Kawasaki wouldnt be hit with duties..one of Ronald Reagans things he had put into effect..i think Harley Davidson implemented it or had something to do with it,saying the japanese were dumping loads of cheap bikes here in the states and making it hard on their market(or something to that effect,i dont remember exactly..the tax was on bikes over 750cc i think...i worked in a Kawasaki dealer in those days and remember those bikes,im pretty sure Honda made some of the Interceptors 700cc at that time..and also built that assembly plant in Ohio so they could just build their big bikes here in the USA..and bypass the tax/duty thing.

So pretty much aside from the 50cc less displacement,it had all the same parts the 750 model had as far as i remember.

Those old inline 4 cylinder 750/650 Kawasakis were damn good bikes,the only major issue i remember them having was when the starter clutches went out you had to split the cases to get to the starter cluthc..it didnt sit on the end of the crankshaft like most bikes..i bet theres alot of those old bikes sitting in garages with that problem that never got fixed because of the labor involved(which,if you were a competent enough wrench,wasnt really all that bad,you yanked the motor out and flipped it over,pulled off the side covers,removed clutch assy,and removed the bottom case half to get to the tranny..then pulled out the shaft with the starter cluthc on it and replaced it and put it all back together..didnt have to disturb the top end stuff at all..

Sorry to babble on..just saw the post and thought i would toss in my two cents worth.
Joe

Thanks man for that post! So, I could probably get a 750 head and pistons and slap it on? This bike has 2,300 miles on it. I doubt the starter has already gone out but a kit is only $30. I'm most likely going to just flip the bike, if doing the starter and 750cc upgrade raises the value, I'll definitely do them. I might have to do a good ol' roll down the hill to get her started trick.

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[nitsua93]

That KZ was one of those bikes that they made to beat the import tariff thing imposed back in the early 80's...essentially a KZ/GPZ 750 engine downsized to 700cc so Kawasaki wouldnt be hit with duties..one of Ronald Reagans things he had put into effect..i think Harley Davidson implemented it or had something to do with it,saying the japanese were dumping loads of cheap bikes here in the states and making it hard on their market(or something to that effect,i dont remember exactly..the tax was on bikes over 750cc i think...i worked in a Kawasaki dealer in those days and remember those bikes,im pretty sure Honda made some of the Interceptors 700cc at that time..and also built that assembly plant in Ohio so they could just build their big bikes here in the USA..and bypass the tax/duty thing.

So pretty much aside from the 50cc less displacement,it had all the same parts the 750 model had as far as i remember.

Those old inline 4 cylinder 750/650 Kawasakis were damn good bikes,the only major issue i remember them having was when the starter clutches went out you had to split the cases to get to the starter cluthc..it didnt sit on the end of the crankshaft like most bikes..i bet theres alot of those old bikes sitting in garages with that problem that never got fixed because of the labor involved(which,if you were a competent enough wrench,wasnt really all that bad,you yanked the motor out and flipped it over,pulled off the side covers,removed clutch assy,and removed the bottom case half to get to the tranny..then pulled out the shaft with the starter cluthc on it and replaced it and put it all back together..didnt have to disturb the top end stuff at all..

Sorry to babble on..just saw the post and thought i would toss in my two cents worth.
Joe

Thanks man for that post! So, I could probably get a 750 head and pistons and slap it on? This bike has 2,300 miles on it. I doubt the starter has already gone out but a kit is only $30. I'm most likely going to just flip the bike, if doing the starter and 750cc upgrade raises the value, I'll definitely do them. I might have to do a good ol' roll down the hill to get her started trick.

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[Retro Rocket]

Ride it before you sell it mate, they are a very good bike, i really liked the 1000 and 1100 models but the 750's were just about bullet proof...

[joesmotos]

Honestly i wouldnt even bother swapping top ends just to get 50cc..not worth the effort..i realize the starter clutch parts arent all that expensive but its the time/labor that gets ya as you have your labor and gasket costs etc etc..if it aint broke dont fix it..change the oil,plugs,filter,all that...if it fires up and goes why bother with the other junk,flip it and be done with it.
But yeah,a 750 cylinder with pistons would bolt right on..
I took a KZ1000(the J model engine,like a cop bike) and installed an KZ1100 cylinder and pistons(from a shaft drive bike,not much difference)...cheap big bore and just as reliable as a stocker,never had a problem,shouldnt have sold that one oops..

[nitsua93]

Honestly i wouldnt even bother swapping top ends just to get 50cc..not worth the effort..i realize the starter clutch parts arent all that expensive but its the time/labor that gets ya as you have your labor and gasket costs etc etc..if it aint broke dont fix it..change the oil,plugs,filter,all that...if it fires up and goes why bother with the other junk,flip it and be done with it.
But yeah,a 750 cylinder with pistons would bolt right on..
I took a KZ1000(the J model engine,like a cop bike) and installed an KZ1100 cylinder and pistons(from a shaft drive bike,not much difference)...cheap big bore and just as reliable as a stocker,never had a problem,shouldnt have sold that one oops..

I was just considering the upgrade if it doesn't sell. Do you think my selling range of $1500-$2000 is possible? It has less than 300 miles and only rust on the exhaust. Been stored inside of a heated building for years.

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[tortelvis]

That KZ was one of those bikes that they made to beat the import tariff thing imposed back in the early 80's...essentially a KZ/GPZ 750 engine downsized to 700cc so Kawasaki wouldnt be hit with duties..one of Ronald Reagans things he had put into effect..i think Harley Davidson implemented it or had something to do with it,saying the japanese were dumping loads of cheap bikes here in the states and making it hard on their market(or something to that effect,i dont remember exactly..the tax was on bikes over 750cc i think...i worked in a Kawasaki dealer in those days and remember those bikes,im pretty sure Honda made some of the Interceptors 700cc at that time..and also built that assembly plant in Ohio so they could just build their big bikes here in the USA..and bypass the tax/duty thing.

So pretty much aside from the 50cc less displacement,it had all the same parts the 750 model had as far as i remember.

Those old inline 4 cylinder 750/650 Kawasakis were damn good bikes,the only major issue i remember them having was when the starter clutches went out you had to split the cases to get to the starter cluthc..it didnt sit on the end of the crankshaft like most bikes..i bet theres alot of those old bikes sitting in garages with that problem that never got fixed because of the labor involved(which,if you were a competent enough wrench,wasnt really all that bad,you yanked the motor out and flipped it over,pulled off the side covers,removed clutch assy,and removed the bottom case half to get to the tranny..then pulled out the shaft with the starter cluthc on it and replaced it and put it all back together..didnt have to disturb the top end stuff at all..

Sorry to babble on..just saw the post and thought i would toss in my two cents worth.
Joe

Thanks man for that post! So, I could probably get a 750 head and pistons and slap it on? This bike has 2,300 miles on it. I doubt the starter has already gone out but a kit is only $30. I'm most likely going to just flip the bike, if doing the starter and 750cc upgrade raises the value, I'll definitely do them. I might have to do a good ol' roll down the hill to get her started trick.

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A word of warning guys, we have been spoiled by Honda as far as availability of old parts go. I do this for a living, and most of the other makes are having parts discontinued for an increasing number of "newer" models and the old parts are very hit or miss! When you get into a one or two model year bike, you are going to struggle to get anything form them, OEM or aftermarket. Aftermarket is not a big supporter of one year models.

[Retro Rocket]

There's plenty of parts for those bikes mate, well at least there is in Aus, apart from the smaller pistons and sleeves, most other parts should be easy to find, the 700 may have only come out in one model but the 750's were made as well and 1000's and 1100's have some parts that will fit as well....

[nitsua93]

There's plenty of parts for those bikes mate, well at least there is in Aus, apart from the smaller pistons and sleeves, most other parts should be easy to find, the 700 may have only come out in one model but the 750's were made as well and 1000's and 1100's have some parts that will fit as well....

Yeah, I was lookin on eBay for them. Probably the only thing hard to find would be the 700cc pistons.

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[madScientist]

If it needed pistons or what not you could probably get 750 jugs and pistons. Easier to come by and cheaper.

[Retro Rocket]

If it needed pistons or what not you could probably get 750 jugs and pistons. Easier to come by and cheaper.

Yeah, thats basically what i was hinting at...

[nitsua93]

All right, I bought the piece of junk. Motor's not seized, has lots o' spark, no leaks... well one carb leaks, and all in all in pretty good shape. I can't get the motor to run though. I have a feeling the battery I'm using that was made for a 2 cylinder machine just isn't cranking hard enough. I've got good spark, whenever I put starter fluid in the carbs it will shoot out the intake if I have the throttle open. Does anyone know what else I should try? Oh, I've got good compression too!

[joesmotos]

Pull the carburetors off and clean all the jets...pull all the plugs out and make sure theyre clean too..the pilot jets have some really small holes so you might have to poke a small piece of wire thru them..i just pull one off a wire brush..if it has an airbox on it,using a hairdryer pointed at the rubber boots where they attach to the carbs helps soften them up for removal..i think there is small wire springs instead of clamps holding those on..i warm them up then peel them back on themselves so there room to remove the carbs..

And yes a good battery helps alot,a low battery combined with trying to start the engine usually = fouled plugs.
Joe

[nitsua93]

It coughs and gets fuel. I already cleaned the carbs. I'm using a good battery now. If a new set of plugs don't fix it, I don't know what else it could be.

[joesmotos]

3 things you always must have..compression,spark and fuel..

So..if you can access a compression gauge,check compression.

Pull all the plugs out and make sure none are fouled..put the plugs in the spark plug caps and lay them on the engine,then spin the engine over to make sure all four are sparking properly.Ive seen bad plug caps which had so much resistance a bike would barely run...also,check to make sure the wires that slide over the little spade connectors on the coils are hooked up,im cant remember the colors but there is a positive+ and a negative-....you should show 12v+(or battery voltage) at the positive connector with the ignition switch turned on..

Make sure the plug wires are on the correct cylinder...if you are looking down on the bike from overhead,the coil on the left has the wires for #1 cyl and #4 Cyl...the coil on the right is #2 and #3...(ive seen plug wires going to the wrong cylinder,makes a lovely backfire with cool flames coming out exhaust.)

You say you have fuel...just to make sure,crack the drain screw on the bottom of each float bowl to make sure theres really fuel in all 4 carburetors..

Are you using the choke when you try to crank it?If so,dont move the throttle just hit the starter button and let it turn over that way..If the choke circuit is working correctly it should run.

Has the bike been down on the right side?Is the ignition cover intact and not broken?Just making sure the pickups under that cover are in ok shape..dont want them rubbing...im pretty sure theres no adjustment but you might want to pop that timing cover off and have a look.Also,theres the *CDI box* that the wires from the pickups go into..but usually when one of those goes bad(which isnt often at all) you will have either no fire at all or maybe just fire on one coil instead of them both..

So assuming the timing is correct,theres engine compression,and fuel,it should run.
Check that out and let me know
Joe

[nitsua93]

3 things you always must have..compression,spark and fuel..

So..if you can access a compression gauge,check compression.

Pull all the plugs out and make sure none are fouled..put the plugs in the spark plug caps and lay them on the engine,then spin the engine over to make sure all four are sparking properly.Ive seen bad plug caps which had so much resistance a bike would barely run...also,check to make sure the wires that slide over the little spade connectors on the coils are hooked up,im cant remember the colors but there is a positive+ and a negative-....you should show 12v+(or battery voltage) at the positive connector with the ignition switch turned on..

Make sure the plug wires are on the correct cylinder...if you are looking down on the bike from overhead,the coil on the left has the wires for #1 cyl and #4 Cyl...the coil on the right is #2 and #3...(ive seen plug wires going to the wrong cylinder,makes a lovely backfire with cool flames coming out exhaust.)

You say you have fuel...just to make sure,crack the drain screw on the bottom of each float bowl to make sure theres really fuel in all 4 carburetors..

Are you using the choke when you try to crank it?If so,dont move the throttle just hit the starter button and let it turn over that way..If the choke circuit is working correctly it should run.

Has the bike been down on the right side?Is the ignition cover intact and not broken?Just making sure the pickups under that cover are in ok shape..dont want them rubbing...im pretty sure theres no adjustment but you might want to pop that timing cover off and have a look.Also,theres the *CDI box* that the wires from the pickups go into..but usually when one of those goes bad(which isnt often at all) you will have either no fire at all or maybe just fire on one coil instead of them both..

So assuming the timing is correct,theres engine compression,and fuel,it should run.
Check that out and let me know
Joe

I do have spark. Seems good too. I did s compression test one night and had a super solid 150. Now when I do a test I can't get a reading. I don't know if it's because of my AutoZone tester or what. Literally nothing changed. One night I did one cylinder, then the next day tried again and got nothing.

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[joesmotos]

Do you have the stock airbox on it with a filter?They wont run worth a crap without it..

The bike losing all compression overnight makes no sense(no offense)..going from 150# all the way across to Zero compression on all cylinders is unlikely unless you bent alot of valves..(also unlikely unless theres something else going on i am not aware of)

[nitsua93]

Do you have the stock airbox on it with a filter?They wont run worth a crap without it..

The bike losing all compression overnight makes no sense(no offense)..going from 150# all the way across to Zero compression on all cylinders is unlikely unless you bent alot of valves..(also unlikely unless theres something else going on i am not aware of)

Took the filter off. I didn't think it made a difference. I'll have to buy one and try again. The stock filter wasn't in the bike, just the box.

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[joesmotos]

It makes a huge difference..if the carbs are truly clean and you have a stock airbox on it,it should start and run on the choke but thats about it..

those bikes run REALLY lean(to pass emmisions at the time)and removing the airbox or filter really aggravates the situation..

You MIGHT could get it to work ok with a jet kit with those pod filters but if its all stock running the airbox is the way to go..

I had also seen people stuff rags under the seat(for what reason im not sure,maybe they just liked having a rag handy) but it ended up blocking off the air intake..once saw a KZ440 that had sucked the rag into the intake and it got stuck under the intake valve..which was actually pretty humorous(to me anyway)...

oh yeah one more thing i just thought of....on the carburetors,theres a hose running off of one of the carbs to the vacuum fitting on the fuel petcock...if its not hooked up,or plugged off,you will have a massive air leak to that one carb which will make the bike run like doo doo..are there little rubber caps on 3 of the carbs covering the tubes you hook up to to synchronize the carburetors?Or one hose that connects all 4 carbs together with little *t* fittings?(THe 4th one will have a black hose that goes to the gas tank petcock,it supplies vacuum to the petcock to make it open in the *on* and Reserve* positions..

When the petcock is in the*Prime* position it allows fuel to flow freely,but will run the tank dry if you ride it that way.

What im getting at is if any of those vacuum fittings are missing it will have a air leak and run bad or not at all..

So check those vacuum fittings on the carbs...

If you go one You Tube and type in *KZ750 carburetors rebuild* or something to that effect theres some videos i think..i learn all sorts of stuff from You Tube..

[joesmotos]

Heres a pic i stole off Ebay,where my custom red and yellow circles are...thats the barbs that you use for carb sync...in this pic theres no hoses interconnecting them but there is one hose coming off the # 3 carb(thats the one that hooks to the fuel petcock)...if youre trying to start the bike,using a remote fuel tank,all those barbs need to be plugged off..if youre using the stock fuel tank,then that #3 barb wit hthe hose can be hooked to the tank or plugged and the petcock turned to *Prime*(usually the center position i think)...

[nitsua93]

Heres a pic i stole off Ebay,where my custom red and yellow circles are...thats the barbs that you use for carb sync...in this pic theres no hoses interconnecting them but there is one hose coming off the # 3 carb(thats the one that hooks to the fuel petcock)...if youre trying to start the bike,using a remote fuel tank,all those barbs need to be plugged off..if youre using the stock fuel tank,then that #3 barb wit hthe hose can be hooked to the tank or plugged and the petcock turned to *Prime*(usually the center position i think)...

Why do they have to be plugged with a remote fuel tank and not with the stock fuel tank? I don't see how that would make a difference.

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[joesmotos]

I was saying that the barbs need to be plugged off..so theres no air leaks...

Ok let me start over...if you are using the stock fuel tank to feed gas to the bike....plug off all the barbs except the one that hooks to the gas tank..that one will supply vacuum to the fuel petcock,if youre just turning the petcock to *On* or*Reserve*If youre running it in the *Prime*position,fuel will flow from the petcock without vacuum.

If you have a remote fuel tank,plug all the barbs..hook the line from the remote tank to the fuel line from the carbs..turn it on..then you have fuel to the carbs.

Hope that clarifies things some..

[nitsua93]

I was saying that the barbs need to be plugged off..so theres no air leaks...

Ok let me start over...if you are using the stock fuel tank to feed gas to the bike....plug off all the barbs except the one that hooks to the gas tank..that one will supply vacuum to the fuel petcock,if youre just turning the petcock to *On* or*Reserve*If youre running it in the *Prime*position,fuel will flow from the petcock without vacuum.

If you have a remote fuel tank,plug all the barbs..hook the line from the remote tank to the fuel line from the carbs..turn it on..then you have fuel to the carbs.

Hope that clarifies things some..

Ah I gotcha! Thanks a lot man. Maybe with all this info I can get this sucker started this week!

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