Topic: Yolanda 2.0 new pretty carbs

[Stev-o]

+1 - Tews is a good guy and Gary gave you some good advice.

I still think the parts I sent you were stolen out of your mailbox.  How else could you explain two envelopes ripped wide open? 

[cheftuskey121]

+1 - Tews is a good guy and Gary gave you some good advice.

I still think the parts I sent you were stolen out of your mailbox.  How else could you explain two envelopes ripped wide open?

speaking of tews. he received the package containing the gauge harness. I guess it got sent back to him somehow? sent me a picture. clearly opened and the harness taken. so thats two things that have clearly been stolen during transit. saddest part is its guaranteed to be in the trash, a perfectly good gauge harness. sigh. in all the years of buying things (hundreds of items to my door and mailbox) this is the first time something like this has happened. dunno if the mailman is tired of me getting stuff or I have some mortal enemy from another life, but I hope it stops. tews is a good guy, I like him

right now I have the front wheel off (I cant remove the small 10mm bolt holding the metal wire for the master cylinder to the caliper itself, or the caliper from the fork). I am working on getting the forks off. the oil is jet black and smells so gross in there. researching how to do this, pretty much pound the forks out, I got one of them to start moving down but its still stuck.

[Tews19]

#$%*. It wasn't even a box! The box was literally cut up. The POst office sent me what was left. Somebody wanted to know what was in there. Glad the PO sent me a recovery form for the postage reimbursement. Freakin joke the PO has become.

Literally only the front of the box was returned. You can see how clean the cuts are.

Didnt mean to hijack. If you want me to remove the pics I can.

[cheftuskey121]

i have no problem with the pics. wow I didnt realize until now it was JUST the front of the box. wow. just wow.

side note, my forks are stuck. I'm sure they are rusted but I want them off so I can have the bare frame. I removed the top unicorn tree, then the springs. I pulled both of those tightening bolts in the lower tree and sprayed pb blaster in and around the forks. I don't now how these come apart. I banged the tops of the forks down flush with the fork ears but now I cant bang them in any more or get them back up. stuck. help!

[cheftuskey121]

here is the nut (on the right) that won't come off at all. afraid to strip it. also is there supposed to be something on the left side there? there was nothing when I got the bike



and here is where I am with the forks. the right side I hit it with a rubber mallet, and I just did the same with the left side. and I dont men hit it once. went a little medieval on it. now I have no clue what to do, as nothing is moving, except the lowers spin freely

[Tews19]

Careful! I would put the top triple on then attempt to hit the forks out. Crack the bottom and you need a new one. Spray some PB Blaster. Let soak for 10 min.

[cheftuskey121]

got them out... only took 2 hours the fork uppers are a nice solid rust color. didnt crack the triple. put the caps back on and beat em in with a socket. then was able to VERY slowly twist them out. I can barely move my arms now. this bike will not defeat me. not yet at least!

[iron_worker]

I took a pry bar and gently pried the "ears" of the clamps open while beating it down from the top. It wasn't pretty but it got there eventually. I marred up my chrome shock caps a bit but mine were rusty so I intended to replace them anyway.

If you're not planning on saving your shock boots/gaitors you could cut them off and then you could pull on the shock tube itself instead of the body. This will allow you to try and twist them back and forth while you pull.

Might help to have a second pair of hands for that stage.

*edit* Guess you got them out while I posted. Good work. lol

IW

[cheftuskey121]

I took a pry bar and gently pried the "ears" of the clamps open while beating it down from the top. It wasn't pretty but it got there eventually. I marred up my chrome shock caps a bit but mine were rusty so I intended to replace them anyway.

If you're not planning on saving your shock boots/gaitors you could cut them off and then you could pull on the shock tube itself instead of the body. This will allow you to try and twist them back and forth while you pull.

Might help to have a second pair of hands for that stage.

*edit* Guess you got them out while I posted. Good work. lol

IW

thanks for the advice. hindsight.....man I really have no clue what I'm doing :-p
love your build by the way. high aspirations working in an apartment but I am loving every second of your build thread. keep it up!

[bender01]

Yeah you jumped in alright! Theres a few 750s around but none for sale! I have a carb sync tool when you need it.
  Ben

[cheftuskey121]

Haha bender I love jumping in. Feel free to come over
Anytime I'm off of work! I could always use a hand or guidance!

[iron_worker]

Thanks for the props. Hope to get hard at 'er again on my build this weekend.

As for the rusty brake line connection ... can you get the rubber/metal line connection separated? If you can then you could slide the box end of a wrench down over it. Otherwise there are line wrenches such as this built for the purpose:

http://autorepair.about.com/od/tools/a/tools_line-wren.htm

Since these fittings are generally made out of soft metal (to allow them to deform and seal properly) having more area of contact to distribute the load evenly helps ensure you don't strip them.

IW

[cheftuskey121]

Thanks for the props. Hope to get hard at 'er again on my build this weekend.

As for the rusty brake line connection ... can you get the rubber/metal line connection separated? If you can then you could slide the box end of a wrench down over it. Otherwise there are line wrenches such as this built for the purpose:

http://autorepair.about.com/od/tools/a/tools_line-wren.htm

Since these fittings are generally made out of soft metal (to allow them to deform and seal properly) having more area of contact to distribute the load evenly helps ensure you don't strip them.

IW

Wow thanks man, exactly what I was looking for. Is the other "nipple" on the caliper just an air vent of sorts or is there supposed to be something connected to that as well? Logic tells me it's an air vent to pressurize the system but I can't assume anything on this bike so I've found.

[knowsnothing]

The other "nipple" is the brake bleeder.  Its helps to get air out of the braking system when you are bleeding it.  Be very careful and patient when trying to remove it.  They love to corrode and seize and then brake on you when you try to get rough. 

[cheftuskey121]

Thanks knowsnothing. I got the metal line off the rubber line with some persuasion then got my box wrench down to the stubborn bolt holding the line in the caliper. Also got out the bleeder bolt without damage.

[cheftuskey121]

update. last night I finally got one fork out thanks to advice here! put the caps back on the forks and put a slightly oversized (I dont have the right size) socket on the cap and beat it with a dead blow hammer until the socket was sunken down below the fork ear. then I was able to have enough starting leverage to slowly, and I mean SLOWLY twist the fork out



got both of them out. well theres your problem, I feel like these should be silver colored



here is my fork oil. awesome



found an adjustable spanner and pulled the lower triple off. thats some nasty grease. got all the balls.





hmmm, gotta get those races out.



got the races out of the neck with some torch work, a long flathead screwdriver, and a dead blow hammer. not too bad.

as she sits not. about to take off the centerstand. just cleaned 1/2" of crud off of the bottom area of the frame. nasty. also, I think one of the feet (not the one with the foot lever) was welded on at a later date. it looks like it was welded crudely, and the centertand does not level the bike. it leans slightly towards the left side (if you were on the bike). should I address this now with a new centerstand?



got the rubber brake line and metal line off



also got both of these bolts of with lots of man force!



I am pretty sure thats the top of the lower neck bearing still attached here so I have to try and remove it. prying with a screwdriver is proving fruitless so far :/



thanks for reading! now onto figuring out how I want to refinish the frame, swingarm, etc. pretty sure I'm not going to powdercoat, does anyone have any nice black frame

[70CB750]

You are right, that bearing race has to come off.  One way is to cut a groove in it with a dremel cut off wheel as far as you can and than split it with cold chisel.  The race is hard, it will snap and come off.

Save the race for driving the new bearing back on.  If you dont have the bearing yet, this is probably the cheapest source around:

http://www.amazon.com/All-Balls-Steering-Bearing-22-1011/dp/B000GZQ3XW

[cheftuskey121]

thanks 70cb750. I don't have bearings yet. are the tapered bearing I read about the ones that go in the neck? I'm pretty sure I want to get those. I'll make sure to save the old races for assembly of the new ones.

[70CB750]

Yes, the link is to the right kit.  Here is the maker:

http://www.allballsracing.com/22-1011.html


Hondaman book has a good write up on it if in doubts.

[cheftuskey121]

thanks! yeah I read about them in hondamans book. love that thing. combine that with this site and the sop manual, and well.....someone like me has actually gotten this far, ha

[Tews19]

Put the lower triple in a vice... If you have a punch, you hit the lower metal washer thing... It will take a bit but you need that removed to put on the new gasket then washer then bearings... I think Stev-o sent you a link for a set on Amazon.. Cheapest out there for alls balls.. Some swear by tapered... I do... Done it to every bike I've had in the past 2 years...

Trick when putting on the new bearings is to freeze to lower triple tree stem.... The turn the oven to 185... heating the bearings.. Light hitting the bearing onto the frozen lower will be an easy way to secure it properly....

[cheftuskey121]

thanks guys, about to order the bearings.

[cheftuskey121]

here is my centerstand. I don't think this one bit, not level at all



getting the spring off the center stand. don't know what I'd do without this site, oh yeah...nothing! such ingenuity



easy



found the cotter pin under more gunk, got it out, drove the centerstand pin out. picture for future orientation. seriously considering a new centerstand. does anyone know compatibility for K1 stands? I want to assume all K models



ok so here is the bottom of my neck. nice and clean



and here is the top. I feel like there is something in there but there is NO lip to try and get anything out. am I mistaken or is it supposed to be very clean and open like the bottom. thanks

[iron_worker]

If you took the race out of the top and the bottom of the neck then that's it.

IW

[Jay Ace]

inside speedo. the two brackets I found cover the instrument bulbs so to dissipate the light around the gauge. going to try and solder them back on because they broke at the hinge in there. maybe some jb weld.

Both of mine were broken as well and I tried soldering but it was a pain so I oped for JB Weld and that was a way better choice. Just tape the pieces in place until weld has set. Not pretty but it's sturdy: