figured I would give a little update. been doing lots of riding, put about 250 miles on her so far! what fun.
I had a pretty bad stator cover leak. I suspected that upon reinstalling my newly chromed covers...the placement dowel did not fit in the hole properly due to the plating. it happened on my shifter cover and I have to pry the squished dowel out of the crankcase and insert new ones, as well and bore out the holes in the covers to actually fit the dowels. well...thats exactly what it was. I finally got tired of my entire left boot being covered in oil, as well as the back half of the bike from blowback. I had to add a quart of oil after 100 miles. the major thing that took me off the road was cylinder 3 was not firing.
I was riding around the other day for about 4 hours and suddenly I heard the exhaust note change. it got slightly deeper. the bike vibrated more and was sluggish. it did not stutter like a carb or electrical problem, just when I gave it gas it took forever to do anything. had no idea what was wrong but I was 30 minutes from home at a buddies. made it home safe and then let her cool down. when I started her up before an oil change, I noticed pipe 3 was not hot. barely warm. not good.
well it was time to change the starter motor brushes so I could actually use the button instead of always kicking it. I cant seem to kick the motor while on the bike, so its frustrating to always have to be off to the side. did the oil drainage, took of airbox, carbs, cam chain tensioner, starter cover, sprocket cover, shifter cover, and stator cover. time to fix that broken starter motor. I was able to get the starter out in about 25 seconds. very easy after ready some tips here. use the long bolts that hold the starter in the motor and screw them into the cover holes. then you can have some leverage to grab onto, make sure your starter wire is OFF the solenoid and give it a little slack through the starter hole, then take off the starter gear and push the starter back towards the points cover, then wiggle up and out. replaced the brushes which was straightforward. put on new honda gaskets (new dowels that fit properly) and got everything back together. no leaks!
so when messing with new spark plugs....I was using NGK iridium, switched to denso xes24u per hondaman recommendation, I noticed the number 3 spark plug wire had burn mark in it. my cables were too long (single loop) and the pipe clamp made contact and burned through it. NOT all the way but I suspect it was shorting or arcing to ground somehow causing the plug to foul?? is this possible?
new plugs, new spark plug wire (shortened #2 and #3 so no more contact with anything hot!), and running on all cylinders. I seem to be running super lean now. all 4 of my idle screws are 2 turns out. I searched and cannot find confirmation.....2 turns out means 360 degrees counterclockwise from the closed position right? I need to richen it up by screwing it inwards. 110 main jets to match 341 pipes, 40 pilot jets, needle clip 2nd from top (dropped the needle down one per hondaman recommendation because the K1s are super rich)
so have I naturally leaned things out too much to begin with?
