Topic: 1979 CB650 About to be started

[trueblue]

Ok, depends on how far you want to go, mine cost me approximately 5k to get it to where it is.  This includes but isn't limited to:
*Ikon shocks
*Michelin tyres
*indicators
*H4 conversion
*speedhut electronic gauges (there is a link to these in my signature)
*exhaust
*fork tubes
*chain and sprockets
*cam chain
*paint (only the products, no labour to apply)
*wheel bearings
*front calipers then overhaul including new pistons (btw CX500 ones fit)
*rear brake linings
*mirrors
*rewound charge rotor
*reg/rec unit
*replaced the seals in the oil pump (highly recomend this one, made a huge difference to the bike)

Future work to be done on it:
*61mm wiseco pistons
*32mm mikuni cv carbs
*ported head

It is easy to blow a s#!tload of cash on all the small details, also not to mention the countless hours of polishing.

[Retro Rocket]

I'm a 750 guy but Blue has it all down right there. If i am keeping a bike then i really don't care what i spend, that probably doesn't help....

[trueblue]

That was pretty much the case when I did my bike, I set myself a budget of about $100/week and just kept going till it was done.  It took me about 10 months to get it on the road and another 18 months (working with a reduced budget) to get to where it is.

[Retro Rocket]

Does this help.?



   http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-CB77-CL77-CB400F-CB450-CB350-CX500-CB500T-CB650-CB750-GL1000-SEAT-BUCKLES-/380531955126?hash=item589978d5b6&item=380531955126&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

[trueblue]

With those guards don't use sandpaper on them to start with, get some aluminium foil and some water fold a sheet of foil up, wet down the guard and start rubbing.  Keep it wet, you'll be suprised at how shiny they come up.  I've brought some pretty nasty looking guards back to life using this method .

[trueblue]

No mate, steel wool scratches the chrome.  Just normal aluminium foil (the stuff you wrap your sandwiches in) and water, and a little elbow grease.  Won't scratch the chrome and removes the rust surprisingly well.

[dave500]

if you have a big enough tub,use mollases and water about 25/75,or white vinegar,no elbow grease,i like mollases,the smell makes me want to crack a beer.

[dave500]

dont ever put alloys in it,it wont hurt chrome or paint,itll make any ferrous come out like new,be ready to prep and paint or coat with oil etc,any ferrous done this way will flash rust almost instantly!you can leave the item in the dip forever,itll only eat the rust not the solid stable metal.

[dave500]

a week or two will do it,the stuff works better as it starts to ferment,use jiff and a scourer pad on the crud,it just hoses off then.

[Retro Rocket]

That cleaned up well....

[Retro Rocket]

Dave might know, i don't see any reason why soda won't work ....

[trueblue]

I've used it before in a pot blaster, but you need a very small nozzle compared to when using something like crushed garnet.  Because it is a lot lighter it will just throw out huge lumps of the stuff.  Don't forget to wear a good dust mask, that sh!t is nasty.

[dave500]

i use fine washed plaster sand on alloy like calipers,leaves a good painting finish.

[dave500]

yeah its elbow grease im afraid.

[dave500]

everyone has their own technique,i only use steel wool for the initial rub of the corroded gunk with jiff,then use finer and finer wet/dry,then polish,those buffers are good,bunnings has good little sets that fit in your power drill,i normally dont use the block polish that comes in those kits,use autosol/mothers etc,,i also find silvo (not brasso,just makes black #$%* happen)works well as a final buff over.

[trueblue]

I used wet and dry starting at 240 grit and working my way up to 2000 grit.  Then I used a buffing mop with wax, and finished with California Gold, Purple, metal polish.  Not to forget at least 40 hours of elbow grease.  While you're in there remove the oil pump and replace the o-rings in it, only costs a couple of dollars but makes a huge difference to how they shift.

[Retro Rocket]

Keep trying....

[trueblue]

If you don't have enough room, you can "store" it in my shed

[trueblue]

I would just have to add it to my list ,  I currently have a '75 CB200T, an '82 CB650SC, a '70 CB350K2 and an '89 XV250 all on my to-do list and in various states of repair .

[trueblue]

mmmmmm 70 CB350K2 mmmmmm

This was it when I picked it up.  There isn't a whole lot salvagable from the origional bike, the seat is shot, the tank has oysters growing in it, the chrome... well just forget about the chrome, but the engine has good compression and rolls over nicely.  Mind you I only paid $25 for it.  Considering the state of it, I figured there is no way I'm going to return it to original, it will just cost too much.  So I'm doing a, dare I say it, cafeish bike out of it.  I went and picked up some bits for it from a mate of mine today.  A CB250 tank a CB400N front end and a set of MORRIS mags.   Twin Disc up front and single disc in the rear

[trueblue]

Truth be told, I paid $50 for 2 bikes, the 350 and an A100



Today I sold the A100 for $250

[trueblue]

They'll work, just check the exhaust around the heat shields, mine rotted out badly there.  After 12 months and numerous patches, I bought a new Motad system out of Dave Silvers.  It made a huge difference to the bike, both in looks and performance .

[dave500]

if your cheap like me theyll be ok and just the ticket,,just heavy being harley ones.

[dave500]

go rough then and use hot dogs or go one better and use a proper oval shaped straight through car type resonator,they work well,just have a funny look.

[Retro Rocket]

I'd stay with the Harley Mufflers mate, they may be a bit heavy but the will look better than the slash cuts...   Tranzac at Carbrook will make an exhaust for your bike {if you want to spend the dollars, 4 into1}, i recently got a muffler off them for Dave 500...