Author Topic: Kentucky's finest? My "help me" thread... (Read 7623 times)

BestSellingAuthor · « **Reply #25 on:** December 17, 2012, 10:37:29 AM »

@DrugMan...ha! That's why I am here. My uncle is actually in western ky. He now tells me that I cut them too short. I am looking. Likewise, I wish to TRY to make it work. I have a bud that used to race 4-wheelers, he said he could do it for me. No cost. So...I'll give those options a shot first.

I wish I could make it to see ya bud. Getting to the Ville is tough, with the kids and all the crap I gotta do through the day. If I cannot "fix" my mistake, I will be calling first.

Thanks DrugMan, and everyone else that has taken the time to look at my slow moving inexperience!!!

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Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #26 on:** December 17, 2012, 10:43:03 AM »

OK, I don't do 550's but.... looking online I see this. These are the other bikes that use the same switch/wiring:

CB550 A MOTORCYCLE, JPN, VIN# CB550K-1000001
CB750K3 A MOTORCYCLE, JPN, VIN# CB750-2200001
CB750K4 A MOTORCYCLE, JPN, VIN# CB750-2300001

I also see this "Not Available" meaning from Honda new so you'll have to buy used. With this in mind you can find a #$%*ty switch that has good wiring and mix and match OR find a completely good unit. Put up a request on this site and list these 3 models. Much more likely to find one from a 770 than a 550!

The following is for a 76 CB550K but NOT a 75 and is available new! This is too bad!

PLEASE SELECT THE MODEL YOU WOULD LIKE TO VIEWX.CB360T A MOTORCYCLE, JPN, VIN# CB360-2100001 TO CB360-2123938
CB360T A (76) MOTORCYCLE, JPN, VIN# CB360-2200001
CB400F A MOTORCYCLE, JPN, VIN# CB400F-1000006 TO CB400F-1038492
CB400F A (76) MOTORCYCLE, JPN, VIN# CB400F-2000001 TO CB400F-2008280
CB400F A (77) MOTORCYCLE, JPN, VIN# CB400F-2100001 TO CB400F-2104166
CB550F A MOTORCYCLE, JPN, VIN# CB550F-1109886
CB550F A (76) MOTORCYCLE, JPN, VIN# CB550F-2000003 TO CB550F-2010866
CB550F A (77) MOTORCYCLE, JPN, VIN# CB550F-2100001 TO CB550F-2114871
CB550K A (76) MOTORCYCLE, JPN, VIN# CB550K-1230001
CB750F A MOTORCYCLE, JPN, VIN# CB750F-1000002 TO CB750F-1015054
CB750F A (76) MOTORCYCLE, JPN, VIN# CB750F-2000003 TO CB750F-2022317
CB750K A (76) MOTORCYCLE, JPN, VIN# CB750-2540001 TO CB750-2575894
GL1000 A MOTORCYCLE, JPN, VIN# GL1-1000001 TO GL1-1020183
GL1000 A (76) MOTORCYCLE, JPN, VIN# GL1-2001483 TO GL1-2032613
GL1000LTD A (76) MOTORCYCLE, JPN, VIN# GL1-2035001 TO GL1-2037000

ANYWAY, should you go looking for a replacement be damn sure to take all the pieces (wiring and switch) to match up! AND take this info also. Do not go without or you may be sorry. Breaking yards/junk yards are NOT an exact science!

BestSellingAuthor · « **Reply #27 on:** December 17, 2012, 10:55:57 AM »

@DrugMan...thanks so much! I appreciate your time, especially since I dunno my ass end from a hole in the ground with regards to any of this...YET. I plan to get it unhooked from and labeled in the bucket. Then make a salvage attempt. If/when unsuccessful, call ya bud in the Ville, armed with your list. Thanks again!

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Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #28 on:** December 17, 2012, 10:59:36 AM »

Bob @ Magnum is in Louisville but I'm in Colorado

Roach Carver · « **Reply #29 on:** December 17, 2012, 11:15:50 AM »

I dont think you can fix those purely because of how tight it is inside the switch housing. Its hard to get the wires to lay down in there to begin with. after you solder and individually insulate the wires there is no way I can see to get the housing to fit around the bars again. IMO, its time to surf ebay and get some new switches.

BestSellingAuthor · « **Reply #30 on:** December 17, 2012, 01:09:12 PM »

Pic below. Take that wiring! I know, who cares? Baby steps. I feel accomplished despite my eagerness allowing me to cut the wires. The RH side is still connected in the bucket. I hope to take care of that tomorrow during snack time.

Sorry to keep bumping this with such useless progress. I know that many here can offer guidance if they see me do something ignorant. Of course this may also be comic relief for some.

@Roach...I, of course, hadn't thought of that. You are most likely correct. In fact, I don't doubt you at all. I plan to move forward as I stated, and try. Even if it's a "no go". I owe it to myself to make the attempt. Besides, it'll be a soldering experience. Something I have never done. Thanks!

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Roach Carver · « **Reply #31 on:** December 17, 2012, 01:34:50 PM »

A soldering experience. I like it. good luck and keep up the "good work" and pics for the bored individuals like me.

seanbarney41 · « **Reply #32 on:** December 17, 2012, 01:54:59 PM »

BestSellingAuthor...I got a little consolation story for ya, about my first handle bar swapping adventure...hopefully, it will make you feel better. I had the same problem as you. I didn't know how the hell to get those wires out of the bars. Fortunately, I unplugged everything in the bucket and got the bars off the bike. And then I pushed and pulled and tugged and lubed with wd40 and tugged and crammed some more but those wires were stuck. I figured there was a little rust inside the bars jamming them up, and maybe a little heat would free 'em up. So I chocked the bars up in the vice, grabbed a propane torch and started applying some. I guessed that the shiny chrome of the bars would reflect most of the heat...so just a little more...and...grab on and ...whipped out a smoking mass of melted together insulation and copper...whoops. I did have enough left to solder new wire in, however.

rb550four · « **Reply #33 on:** December 17, 2012, 02:27:04 PM »

That is a funny story, it's amazing, the things we think will work when we have a lack of experience or pressed for time. At least you put them in a vice and have no scares to prove that it ever happened.

Stev-o · « **Reply #34 on:** December 17, 2012, 09:47:08 PM »

We all have a story on how to get the wires out. I cut the damn ape hangers!

BestSellingAuthor · « **Reply #35 on:** December 18, 2012, 09:28:46 AM »

Welp...y'all made me feel a lil better about it. What pissed me off is, had I gone into the headlight bucket in the first place I wouldn't be asking the following question.

I found a guy in town, through a friend, that is a 25yr Harley mechanic, on his own now. I told him where I was. He quotes me $100 to solder the wires back (or at the switch, if necessary), cut holes in the new bars, and stuff it back together. Fair price? Though I would like to TRY it myself, it seems better to save the $20+ I would spend on what I need, and simply take it to him.

Thanks in advance.

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Roach Carver · « **Reply #36 on:** December 18, 2012, 10:17:59 AM »

My vote is neither although I didnt see that option. He may very well solder them but they still wont go back together properly. Next in line will be another compromise. Then another and when done you still have a #$%* control that may strand your ass. Take that money and buy another (for less money). Solder something else like custom battery cables

BestSellingAuthor · « **Reply #37 on:** December 18, 2012, 10:52:20 AM »

@Roach. Thanks for the input. I AM gonna call DrugMan's bud also.

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Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #38 on:** December 18, 2012, 12:47:40 PM »

Quote from: roach carver on December 18, 2012, 10:17:59 AM

My vote is neither although I didnt see that option. He may very well solder them but they still wont go back together properly. Next in line will be another compromise. Then another and when done you still have a #$%* control that may strand your ass. Take that money and buy another (for less money). Solder something else like custom battery cables

I'm seriously with Roach on this. Bob's number is 502-776-2142. Expect to pay approximately 50% of new if it's decent. You have the models information it will fit.

Garystratos201 · « **Reply #39 on:** December 18, 2012, 12:51:25 PM »

I got a brand NOS rt hand switch from ServiceHonda.com for my K1 for 80 something dollars. It looks great.........Gary

Roach Carver · « **Reply #40 on:** December 18, 2012, 01:40:30 PM »

I want to say one more thing. Stay here and don't be afraid to tackle pretty much any project on your bike yourself. Its part of the fun and also gives you confidence that 1. its done right, and 2. that if it breaks while your riding you can fix it yourself.

There are plenty of knowledgeable guys/gals (p.c.) that are happy to walk you through any issues you might run into. I come to this place for all of my information now. I started a pipe thread to ask about tobacco. that's how much I like this place. One stop shopping.

BestSellingAuthor · « **Reply #41 on:** December 18, 2012, 01:49:20 PM »

@DrugMan...closed til after the first of the year.

@Gary...discontinued and out of stock. I even called them. At $80 for NOS, I would buy the L/R, no questions asked. Then mess with the old one on my own.

@Roach...yeah! Thanks. I have read so many threads over the last 2 months, it makes me seems sad.

I quickly noticed how much help everyone is for one another. This thread is the perfect example. Though I try to post back to each and every one, we're on page 3 and I only have my handle bars off! HA!

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Stev-o · « **Reply #42 on:** December 18, 2012, 07:52:31 PM »

Hey BSA - look at this, they claim it is also for a '75 550. Was thinking about getting it for my K4.

http://www.z1parts.net/product/honda-cb750-cb550-switch-kit-main-35010-374-671-contol-switch

PS. Is Woodford Reserve really that good??

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #43 on:** December 18, 2012, 10:17:13 PM »

Woodford IS that good as long as you're drinking it on ice.

BestSellingAuthor · « **Reply #44 on:** December 19, 2012, 03:26:58 AM »

@Stev-o...thanks!!! I have that bookmarked. That looks like it, for sure. I will double check. Same number/color wires. I will search more dilligently for a left hand control now. Something in me finds it difficult to buy one, if I cannot find the other side in equal condition.

Yeah...like Drugman said, Woodford Reserve is pert fair. I am trying to find a bottle of Pappy Van Winkle, 23yr for my brother now. He wants it as a gift for someone. It seems more rare than these controls!

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Garystratos201 · « **Reply #45 on:** December 19, 2012, 06:51:37 AM »

Try.... http://www.vintagecb750.com/products/5/electrical/90/handlebar-switches

They show the lt and rt switches...........Gary

BestSellingAuthor · « **Reply #46 on:** December 19, 2012, 09:00:05 AM »

@Gary...thanks!!! I am probably gonna grab 'em. If I gotta pay $100 for someone to work on these, brand new are worth $150. Certainly so. Thanks!

Despite it all, I did get the few things I needed to try soldering them myself. I figure it's good to have around the house and I won't mind tackling something less important. However, I currently suck at soldering. No...no pics.

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BestSellingAuthor · « **Reply #47 on:** December 19, 2012, 11:54:19 AM »

So...I bought a soldering iron some years ago, just to have one. Might as well have saved the money. I just read the reviews. The worst of any product I have ever researched. I'm going to buy a "proper" soldering gun this afternoon.

While I am wrangling with the controls, bars, etc. I have a question concerning my next item of business. PO mentioned the petcock leaks. (Weeps might he a better term.) Since I don't have a manual yet (Clymer? Is that the one to get?), and even if I did I would ask your advice. Can these still be had? Is there a suitable aftermarket option, if not? I will search online for a "how to" for draining the fuel as well as petcock replacement. Anything y'all wish to offer, so I don't cut something?

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HondaMan · « **Reply #48 on:** December 19, 2012, 12:06:47 PM »

Quote from: BestSellingAuthor on December 19, 2012, 11:54:19 AM

So...I bought a soldering iron some years ago, just to have one. Might as well have saved the money. I just read the reviews. The worst of any product I have ever researched. I'm going to buy a "proper" soldering gun this afternoon.

While I am wrangling with the controls, bars, etc. I have a question concerning my next item of business. PO mentioned the petcock leaks. (Weeps might he a better term.) Since I don't have a manual yet (Clymer? Is that the one to get?), and even if I did I would ask your advice. Can these still be had? Is there a suitable aftermarket option, if not? I will search online for a "how to" for draining the fuel as well as petcock replacement. Anything y'all wish to offer, so I don't cut something?

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Get a soldering IRON, not a gun. The guns are for things like 12 gauge wires, big stuff. Look for a 40 watt iron for this stuff, and a small tip on it.

The petcock: you can remove the face of the valve (with the lever itself, 2 screws) and replace the 4-hole seal inside. Honda sells the seals, so do folks on eBay. I do probably 6 every year or so, easy to fix.

Roach Carver · « **Reply #49 on:** December 19, 2012, 02:59:45 PM »

^^^^^
Yes what he said. OR, you could cut the petcock out with a recip saw. I KEED.

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Author Topic: Kentucky's finest? My "help me" thread... (Read 7623 times)