Topic: Winter/Spring lay-up work 2020/2021

[newday777]

Prokop, I need to find your link to the waterproof bags. Are you happy with them?

Here you go:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089ZZRPXL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Great bags, you can haul a lot in them.  Roll top keeps them dry too.

These bags are 50L compared to the 35L above.
I'll probably go with these

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B077TQ8R81/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pd_rd_i=B077TQ8R81p13NParams

[Kevin D]

Too easy to pinch a tube when mounting the tire by yourself.

Really important to have tire irons without sharp corners and have a little bit air in tube when wrestling on the half last part of tire. 
Tire must be richly lubed with tire lube where in contact with rim. Both sides of tire.

It glide nicely on without a hard fight when irons can pinch the tube.

I learned the hard way. I pinched some tubes the last years. Luckely not stranded away from my garage.
One flat happened 1 1/2 year after.
I saw the bite marks after the tire iron I later shaped rounder on a bench grinder.
I'll grind it smoother where it can hit rim. Surface has a molded not perfecly smooth surface.

Rim protector is not always that cooperative.
Always have extra of new tubes.

Yes PeWe,I have pinched the tube occasionally, more so when I was a beginner, only once in recent times. The tools I have are all good/smooth/round. As a bead lube I have used talcum powder, but mostly dish soap works well. My Honda was parked for 15 years and it was probably 20 years between tire changes for me and the CB and I believe that tire construction is much changed in that time and for the better but more difficult to change, say 1980 until 2000. In my working days 1970+/- the 8” spoons were adequate but not today.
My rims are original, when I look at a restored bike with shiny rims I’m envious. The rim protectors belong to my son, for his alloy rims. I use a new tube every time I get a new tire and save the old tube for an emergency spare. In this case the old rear tube is 2 years.
Gotta make sure I locate the directional arrow and put the sidewall dot by the valve stem. I sure don’t want to do this twice. 

[Kevin D]

So this tire was made the fourth week of 2020, it’s a year old.
The balance dot and the directional arrow are right next to each other.
And Continental Moto tires are made in Korea, that’s OK with me as long as I’m not buying missiles and submarines for North Korea. I thought they were a German company.

[newday777]

And Continental Moto tires are made in Korea, that’s OK with me as long as I’m not buying missiles and submarines for North Korea. I thought they were a German company.

Back in the 70s yes they were made in Germany

[PeWe]

Interesting, I had to check my German tire Metzeler, new since November.
Made in Indonesia
I suppose the previous tire was made there too. It worked fine.
The DID rim is made in Indonesia too so they fit!

[Stev-o]

Stev-o what pressures do you run? How many miles do you get out of them?

I like higher pressures, the roads are smooth around here so it isnt a harsh ride, may be different for you [MI = bad roads?!]
You should expect 4K miles on the rear and 5+ on the front. Contis hare a relatively soft compound so not the longest lasting tire but I prefer a soft tire for performance.

[Kevin D]

Stev-o what pressures do you run? How many miles do you get out of them?

I like higher pressures, the roads are smooth around here so it isnt a harsh ride, may be different for you [MI = bad roads?!]
You should expect 4K miles on the rear and 5+ on the front. Contis hare a relatively soft compound so not the longest lasting tire but I prefer a soft tire for performance.

Good to know. I’m usually on the asphalt country roads, not the highway.

[Kevin D]

Resuming work after a warm weather vacation....
I have missed my completion date of 4/15 but the Michigan weather has turned back from 70-80f to 40-50f so I have only missed a bit of riding. Lots of post-vacation chores competing now with CB wrench time.

I have taken the front wheel off and fitted the new Conti, but the date code for the front tire says 0819 so my zero mile tire is already 2 years old. The rear date code is 0420, only 1 year old. That’s about typical for my online purchases from AMT and I generally wear the tread off before the sidewall cracks show up.
 I’m 67 with a bum knee and kneeling on the tire while using the spoons was painful, but I got it done anyway. Powdered the tube and dish soap on the bead made it easier.
 The new front sprocket showed up while I was away. This new sprocket is the third front sprocket that has been on the bike and the new rear sprocket is the second. I kept the 18/48 ratio as I like my 48 mpg and the bike is plenty fast enough for me. I expect these sprockets will see me to the finish line.
 I have had a small stain on the disc so I peeked in to the brake piston and found it wet. The last time around I replaced the leaking/rusted original piston with a phenolic replacement piston and new seal. It was good for a lot of miles and several years, but it’s clearly leaking now. I had hoped that the Master cylinder and brake piston would be good forevermore but it hasn’t worked out that way. I have a new DSS piston and seal on hand for replacement. I have to find my small rotary brass brush for the seal groove.

[Kevin D]

Here is the leaky phenolic piston. It’s a few thou less than the new piston and below the service limit of 1.500”. The seal is loose on the piston: no drag at all. But hey, for 4 years and thousands of miles it stopped me every time it was asked and there is no rust at all. The seepage was so small that I never noted a change at the master cyl level.

The new piston and seal are in, new fluid in and bled. I have new pads on hand, the old ones are soaked. They’re hardly worn but I’m reluctant to use them. Maybe I can touch them with the pad sander, square them up and put them in deep storage.

[Kevin D]

This speedo cable retaining screw almost torpedoed the front wheel removal. It was rough when I first tried it and I made it worse. Then I went for the hand impact and there is enough left there that the hand impact got it out. Both of these screws are hardware store screws: it’s supposed to be an oval head, not flat head. I hope to remember to include one 5 x 15 mm oval head screw 93700-05015-0A in my next genuine Honda part order.

[Stev-o]

Agree with not using the fluid soaked pads. For the cost of replacements, not worth using them

[Kevin D]

On to the front forks today. Changed the fluid. Added fresh 220cc trans fluid. The springs measured up at 481mm, 3mm shorter than new so I added 1/2” worth of shims to give about 3/8” preload.

The brake lever is rock solid. I wrapped the lever to the handlebar with a bungee cord overnight, after the caliper rebuild. IIRC that’s a TwoTired tip.

Snow last night and on the ground this morning: the early spring has disappeared.

[Kevin D]

The off-season work is done, it’s time to ride.
 I finished with the oil change and had a 40 mile test ride this week. So the completed work is tires, brakes, suspension, oil change.
 The rear tire Conti 120-90x18 is a smidge wider than a BT45 of the same size, reducing clearance to the brake stay arm. There is enough clearance, but I would be more comfortable with it if the clearance was closer to 1/8”.
 The brakes are good: new shoes, new pads, new caliper piston and seal, new fluid. No leaks, lotsa stop. I’m disappointed in the aftermarket phenolic piston.
 The suspension is a work in progress and time will tell if it is good. It’s totally subjective and I’m certainly not qualified to comment beyond “too soft”, “too stiff”. A nasty cornering episode led me to find that the original rear shocks were shot: weak springs zero damping. The replacement Hagons corrected that but with too much spring. So the 20kg rear springs now mounted are the second step of improvement. I added 1/2” preload to the front springs along with new fluid. Maybe new Progressive springs $100, but I think that would be throwing good money after bad.
 
For the future:
- There is a tight spot in the chain and a new Diamond conventional chain with clip master link is on the way $92.
      The old Diamond chain was good for 7 years, about 18000miles.
- The starter clutch reminded me that it wants attention and I will get to that on a rainy day.
       There is also a nuisance leak, presumably from the alternator wire grommet. It’s not a big deal, it just
       contributes to the chain lube mess on the left pipe.
- There is a smaller nuisance leak recurring at the head. It’s been 14 years, 30000 miles since I was last in the
        engine.
        I don’t want to pull the engine, I don’t want to cut the frame. It’s just seeping a bit and I can tolerate that.
        I believe it’s the pucks. Wishing I had a visual... I have seen smart phone cameras that could go into the fins.
- The rack won’t go on until I’m certain I’m traveling, but it will be an easy installation as I have all the hardware on hand, and it’s been test fitted. I don’t yet have the travel bags either, but Father’s Day and Birthday are on the horizon.

[Kevin D]

The new chain showed up, was installed, and a successful shakedown ride was made. For some reason, Diamond could not provide a 100L chain in a timely manner, so I accepted and fitted a 102L chain. The 100L chain runs with the axle all the way forward in the swing arm slot, the 102L runs about an inch back, maybe halfway through the index marks. I might have to cut the extra links out later on, but I think there is enough adjustment provided.
In the meantime, I have added an inch to the wheelbase.

$92 Diamond chain
$213 ContiGo tires/tubes
$125 rear springs ($47 shipping ouch)
$280 sprockets, brakes, brake piston, misc

It should be good for a while.