Topic: Synthetic or regular?

[lone*X]

This forum is also about fun and enjoyment.  No one means disrespect to the OP or his question.  There were several valid responses early on and even listed products.  The bottom line is that there is no single answer to this question.  There is no best motor oil, only personal prefrences.  Follow the factory maintenance guidelines and any oil, dino or synth, will give excellent service.  Only rule is to stay away from anything with friction modifiers due to the wet clutch.   It's up to each individual to decide what they want to pay for and put in their bike.

One last thought.  Synthetics can last a lot longer than the 2K tuneup/oil change interval.  If you change oil at 2k miles (nice to see what might be floating around in there) what are you really gaining from paying extra for the synthetic?  This is my opinion only, your milage may vary.

[dave500]

[TwoTired]

Geez, give the guy a break.  Isn't this forum for asking questions and hopefully getting helpful answers?  Not for weird sarcasm and inside jokes.  I know it's a old, heated debate about the oil but I doubt anyone who is really seeking assistance cares about your dumb popcorn references.

The various cliques of the forum MUST entertain themselves!  Regardless of at who's expense!

Synthetic oil has been in use since the '30s or '40s.  The difference between it and "regular" engine oil is the contained impurities, and the size of the molecules, where the synthetic has a more uniform molecule size.  Crude oil is refined to a level suitable for intended use.  Synthetics are created from components. Or, at least were originally.  The standards bodies now allow "extra refined" crude oil to be labeled "synthetic".  Yes, "lying" is that pervasive.

Synthetics do have a higher temperature tolerance than the base stock used in formulating "regular" engine oils.

"Formulation" is a key word, as there are no multi-viscosity engine oils in the marketplace without an "additive package" blended with it.  It is the additive package that determines suitability for wet clutch operation, its temperature tolerance, shear tolerance, and wear life.

Any engine oil is better than none.  Those that are labeled for wet clutch use are universally a pretty safe choice.

Because of Synthetic oil's higher temp tolerance, I use a synthetic blend to extend engine protection when stuck in slow or no moving traffic on very hot days, which can damage the oil in these air cooled motors with no fan.  The oil still gets damaged and has to be changed soon after.  But, it keeps the engine from sustaining permanent damage during these short event periods.

I don't have a brand loyalty as there is none deserved, or warranted.  There is certainly reciprocation in any case.

I've used Honda HP-4 no moly, which seems to make the trans and clutch work particularly smoothly.
I've also used  Golden Spectro 4-Semi Synthetic 10W-40.

I've also used Rotella, upon the recommendation from forum members here.  The engine didn't blow up or seize, and the clutch still works reasonably well.  I use it during new acquisition engine trials, before switching to a synthetic blend.

Full synthetics tend to be more expensive.  But, they don't really extend the change intervals by very much in my motorcycles.  It seems the transmission gears chop up the long chain molecules in the additive package that provide the multi-viscosity rating, resulting in an oil that behaves as it's base stock viscosity, or the lower number.  I don't think that is desirable, particularly on a hot day.    In any case, how smoothly the trans shifts and how easily the clutch works, determines my oil change intervals.  When it gets clunky, draggy, or resistive to shifting is when the oil change is due.

Cheers,

[CoachDoc]

A friend who works for NAPA clued me in to the fact that their NAPA house brand oils are made by Valvoline and are relatively inexpensive. I change oil more than most (every 1000miles for my 550) even if I use synthetic. NAPA sells a nice synthetic 15w-50 that I like a lot, and I like the better high temperature performance this oil affords because it can get very hot in SoCal once you go inland a bit in the Summer months. No friction reducers in this oil, so no clutch slippage. On sale I've gotten it for as little as $4 per quart. For me this stuff hits a nice sweet spot in the balance between cost and quality.

[grasscutter]

Geez, give the guy a break.  Isn't this forum for asking questions and hopefully getting helpful answers?  Not for weird sarcasm and inside jokes.  I know it's a old, heated debate about the oil but I doubt anyone who is really seeking assistance cares about your dumb popcorn references.

The forums are also used for SEARCHING topics!

What are there...like...300,400, 500 references to 'what oil should I use'?
Not just on this forum, but every forum for every imagined hobby....motorcycle, dirtbike, adventure rider, drag race, R/C airplane, lawn mower....etc...etc..Right?

Troll.

And we're all playing along.

[dave500]

troll oil,,for that extra trollness.

[Deltarider]

More than a discussion about oil I'm (far more) bored by the Pavlov reaction of popcorn over, over and over again by many of you. Think of something new, guys!
The truth is that - looking at the number of views - all of us are following this thread secretly eager to learn something new.
Best wishes for 2013!

[dave500]

yeah best wishes delta,,you wont learn nothing new about oil though,,its the same slippery stuff its always been,,and this ones just for you delta!

[dave500]

deltas book of boring non insulting stuff.

[Deltarider]

,,its the same slippery stuff its always been,

Then... what are you doing here?

[dave500]

it should have been deltas book of poor attempted humour?sheesh!

[trueblue]

[Deltarider]

Dave... (sigh)... how can I get you of my back? How can I make you happy?
Ah, let me say that your GM Holden was he very best car in the western hemisphere until Detroit stunned the international automotive industry with their greatest invention ever: the cupholder. I mean it.

[750K]

Hahaha, I for one love a good oil thread. The popcorn gif's crack me up, keep them coming!

[Terry in Australia]

I love Dave's "Book" gif, every time he brings it out! (Every fcuking time...........)

Synthetics, and semi-synthetics won't harm your bike, just your wallet. The oil that you can buy in your local supermarket is so much better than what was around 35 years ago, and will work fine in your bike. Any good mineral oil will work, except oils with friction modifiers.

Of course, you can buy full synthetic and change your oil every 50 miles if you want to, it's entirely up to you. Cheers, Terry.  

[70CB750]

Castrol Motorcycle oil in summer and Mobil Delvac in winter work for me well.  Delvac is 12 bucks in local wally world, hard to beat that and I run it in my Kubota tractor and I also used it in motorcycle forks - when I had short fork tubes installed.

[KeithB]

I use it during new acquisition engine trials, before switching to a synthetic blend.

Terry, have you found that the shifting is any different when you change up to synthetic or synth blends?
Or does it vary with each bike?

[grasscutter]

The truth is that - looking at the number of views - all of us are following this thread eager to learn something new.

Now that's hilarious! 
Doubtful there's even one person following this 'EAGER' to learn something about oil!
Hahahahahahahaha.

We're here because its a train wreck!

Oil suggestions are like a**holes.  Everyone has one.
Everyone's grandpa or some other 'einstein-ish old-timer' told them something, that must be from God above, and they are going to do it til they die.

Change oil every day?
Couldn't care less.
Use shi**y oil for under $1 a qt.?
Don't care.
Swear by the high-end synthetic?
Not interested.

See...that's the thing.  For each one of those selections, you can find plenty of people to 'be on that side'.

The only thing that needs to be done with an oil thread is let it run, and enjoy the show.
But definitely don't waste your time giving ACTUAL oil information.

***Where is ol'Gregory, anyway?? ( The OP).
Thinking up a new 'question', eh Gregripko?
Here's a couple suggestions to keep it lively.
1-Best tire recommendations.
2-Switched to pods, now won't run right.
3-Looking for exhaust recommendations.

Or wait....to do like Gregripko has been doing, let's re-word the oil question 100000 different ways.
1-Do I switch oils for winter?
2-Any problems changing over to synthetic?
3-What oils are good for Motorcycle clutches?
4-Changed my oil, now it slips in gear?
5-Switched to different brand, now I notice engine is leaking?
6-Changed oil, now oil light flickers?
7-Is 20w-50 ok for me?
8-Does anyone use Shell Rotella? 
9-etc....etc...etc....



See what I mean?

[Deltarider]

That's a lot of words, Grasscutter. Checked a minute ago: 653 views, still counting. I rest my case.

[grasscutter]

That's a lot of words, Grasscutter. Checked a minute ago: 653 views, still counting. I rest my case.

Nope.

You said, 'EAGER' to learn.
Not whats happening here.

You did see the train going in circles, right?
I figured that picture would help summarize.

Relax Deltarider. 
Throw your head back, and let out a chuckle ...or four!
Enjoy the humor in it!!

[Stev-o]

Good observations, Grasscutter, love it.

Here is another one for your list, was about a month or two ago:

Changed my oil, now my bike runs like #$%*e?

[Bailgang]

Eager to learn? Normally yes but in this case it's being thoroughly amused (which probably accounts for 99.9% of the 700 views) at how a subject that's been brought up so many times, goes absolutely no where every single time, other than choosing an oil that doesn't have friction mods no definitive answer is ever reached not ever yet it turns into a pointless debate every single time and is almost always started by an OP who was obviously to lazy to use the search function. This topic though is getting even more amusing because now popcorn humor is being debated. Unbelievable

[crazypj]

Some old Honda's just have issues with oil.
If you run a CB360 or race a CB350, you have to do some modifications to prevent cam bearings seizing.
Something I have found, Shell Rotella 5w/40 FULL SYNTHETIC with 2oz ZDDP prevents top end issues. (youdo get some clutch slip, 37yr old plates don't like really slippery oil)
Heavy duty clutch springs completely cure clutch slip though
Using a thicker oil (20w/50) actually causes top end failure in a pretty short time (less than 200 miles in one case)
So, in my opinion, 'cheap' 5w/40 full synthetic, with added ZDDP is the way to go.
It's in ALL my bikes (except the XS650 that needs a top nd re-build, that's using a quart in 200miles  )

[Deltarider]

"Our forum is addicted to oil" (George W. Shoesh)

cam bearings seizing

Cam bearings? Where?

[Roach Carver]

Baby oil from fresh sqeezed babies. Its a renewable resource so I get a tax credit for being green.