Topic: Bikemaster O-Ring Chain

[nccb]

Guys, what are your thoughts on the 530 Bikemaster O-Ring Chain for a 750 k4?  I feel my chain is a bit stretched from poor upkeep.  I was debating on that or the X-ring, being only 10 bucks or so more.  While I am at it I am changing out the sprockets with JT steel sprockets to stock spec (18-48). 

Just wanted some opinions before I click "Submit Order."

[grasscutter]

Ive only used one BikeMaster chain.  Standard 530x106 for my CB650.
Not doing another one.

Seemed to be too soft.  Stretched way too often.  I keep chain clean and adjusted regularly.
Switched to a Regina.

We'll see how that goes for the upcoming riding season.

But...don't go just by me.  Maybe others have had success with BikeMaster.

Someone posted on here the specs of 'tensile strength', and chains.
Not sure which BikeMaster chain you're looking @, but their basic 530x106 chain, has 6,700# tensile, for up to 400cc.
My new Regina 530x106, is 7800 tensile for 600cc bikes.  Which fits my stock 626cc ride.

So for your 750, I'm betting you're way under what you need.

[nccb]

the one I was looking at was 9,700 tensile strength

[dhall57]

I run diamond #530 non-o-ring chains on both my 750's.

[nccb]

I run diamond #530 non-o-ring chains on both my 750's.

I looked for those after having read many members here using them but I think they were out of my budget (can't remember what they cost now though).  The chain I am looking at is 82-95 depending on O- or X-ring.  Can't afford the high end and I don't want a cheap chain.

[dhall57]

NC, many members here run -o-ring chains and say that's the best way to go. But right after I got my 750K6 in 2009 it needed a new chain and sprockets. I took Hondamans advice and went with Diamond powersport non-o-ring chain. I also put the same chain on my 70KO back in August of this year. No complaints on either bike. If not mistaken this last chain including frt. was in the $60 to $65 range, not bad. The K6 I run the stock set-up 18-48 sprockets and the KO is 17-45. I order the same part # XMC-1548-M-102P-530 chain for both bikes. Took a link or 2 out of each to get the wheel adjustment where I wanted it. This is where I ordered it:

Kaman Ind.Tech
3012-E South Elm-Eugene St.
Greensboro, NC 27429
#336-333-9992

Can't remember the name , but the guy I talked to was very helpful. He gave me the total price and he took my card# over the phone and in only a few days the chain was on my door step. Can't get much easier than that

[nccb]

I must have been looking at some crazy chain then That price isn't what I thought.

[lucky]

You do not need a O ring chain people.

Just a regular #530 chain is all you need . No special tools.

[nccb]

I know these bikes don't need an O-ring nor do they need this much tensile strength.  I thought, from what I read on these boards, that the o-ring chains needed less maintenance because they help hold in lubrication.  I wasn't intending to start a oil war-like thread, more of a product review of the bikemaster chains to aid in my decision.  If they are easier to maintain, then I would prefer to spend a bit more money as I can be regretfully neglectful at times.

[grasscutter]

Disagree with 'don't need that much tensile strength'.

And yes, chains with lower tensile #'s do stretch and wear out quicker.
This is physics, and metal chemistry.
Match correct T.S. to your application.

<<<<<Tensile Strength…What's in it for you?

You may have already noticed that the higher the tensile strength rating of a chain, the progressively higher price tag it carries. That has to do with the costs of the component raw materials used in the chain, the manufacturing costs, heat-treating processes, the price of a barrel of Arabian crude oil, etc., etc., etc. The real question is…

"Why should you pay for a higher Tensile Strength chain?"

Here are the Main Benefits of Higher T.S.…. The useful life of any chain directly relates to the tensile strength number. The higher the number, the longer the chain will last, under the same conditions.

The higher the tensile rating, the less the chain will stretch and consequently, the less maintenance required to adjust out the resulting slack.

The greater the tensile strength the more ability the chain has to resist damage caused by shock loads imposed by hi-impact events in the drive train such as dumping the clutch at 12,000 rpm….landing full power-on from a triple…operating the drive system with excessive chain slack or loose sprocket bolts.

Here is the most overlooked, hidden benefit of high tensile: If you ride off-road, the eventual day will come when a rock of just the right size and shape finds its way in between a chain roller and a sprocket tooth. The higher the chains' tensile, the better your odds that the rock loses the contest and gets pulverized. You won't even know it happened. A lower tensile chain has a greater probability of losing the battle to the rock and the chain breaks apart.

So…. What should you buy?

The real questions you should be asking yourself………..and answer…..…are.........

1-How long are you keeping your Bike?

2-Do you like regularly adjusting greasy drive chains?

3-Do you enjoy gambling on unexpected breakdowns due to chain failure?

Category "One" Rider / Mechanic

If you are selling your machine soon, don't mind the hassle of constant chain adjustments or consider trail side emergency repairs a fun adventure…then your choice will be the lowest T.S. chain which will also be the cheapest to buy. However, it may prove much more expensive if it fails and takes out the motor cases or rear hub. But you have to be willing to take that gamble in the first place.

Category "Two" Rider / Mechanic

If you are keeping your bike for years; harbor a true disdain for adjusting chains; or prefer to limit your risks to Friday night poker or the madman next to you in a tight turn at speed…then your choice is clear…purchase well above the recommended minimum and get the highest T.S. chain you can fit into your budget…>>>>>

We're not talking a lot of $$ here either.
Even a real nice non o-ring standard chain with good tensile #'s is only $100-150, depending on what brand you like.

[nccb]

Thanks grasscutter, I wasn't meaning to say that tensile strength doesn't matter but your point is well taken.  A chain that requires the least amount of effort is the one I would prefer but fullwell knowing that it will require some servicing

[MCRider]

I know these bikes don't need an O-ring nor do they need this much tensile strength.  I thought, from what I read on these boards, that the o-ring chains needed less maintenance because they help hold in lubrication.  I wasn't intending to start a oil war-like thread, more of a product review of the bikemaster chains to aid in my decision.  If they are easier to maintain, then I would prefer to spend a bit more money as I can be regretfully neglectful at times.

I was of the non-O ring crowd myself, until I tried one. Never go back. I wonder if those who are still proponents of non-ORing have ever tried an ORing.

To use a non-Oring chain your maintenance must be right on, never missing a cycle and that can be every 100-150 miles. I can easily go 500 to 1000 on a non-Oring before touching it. And that only involves wiping it off and hitting it with a non-Oring chain aerosol. That's for the chain to sprocket benefit, not for the chain itself.

Your last line makes your decision for you.

[ofreen]

For boring reasons I won't go into, I bought a Bikemaster 530 o-ring chain from a shop in Lake Havasu 3 years ago. Within 5000 miles it was exuding the red dust and requiring the frequent adjustments that precedes the demise of an o-ring chain.  I get 20,000+ out of RK and Tsubaki o-ring chains. I can't recommend anything with the Bikemaster brand name on it for anything but light-duty, low mile usage. Especially batteries.

[nccb]

For boring reasons I won't go into, I bought a Bikemaster 530 o-ring chain from a shop in Lake Havasu 3 years ago. Within 5000 miles it was exuding the red dust and requiring the frequent adjustments that precedes the demise of an o-ring chain.  I get 20,000+ out of RK and Tsubaki o-ring chains. I can't recommend anything with the Bikemaster brand name on it for anything but light-duty, low mile usage. Especially batteries.

Ok, thats what I was looking for.  I'll check out the RK or Tsubaki - do you have a higher preference for either of those?

[70CB750]

I run Tsubaki Omega for 7 000+ miles without issues and/or stretching.

[ofreen]

The Tsubaki Sigma x-ring might have a little edge over the RK XSO, but it is close. The RK usually can be had a little cheaper.

[tlbranth]

I have no Bikemaster experience but can recommend RK x-ring. I think I paid a tad over $100 for mine and I rarely even give it thought any more. It never goes out of adjustment. I squirt it with chain wax when I think about it and clean it once in a while. I used to use Diamond non-oring and the maintenance was constant.

[70CB750]

This could be my next chain:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CZ-MOTORCYCLE-CHAIN-530-SDZ-X-Ring-/190555064987?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5df78a9b&vxp=mtr

same factory that makes CZ guns, I am inclined to believe that is a good chain.

[nccb]

Thanks guys, I guess I will invest 20 more bucks into the chain to get a quality one.  I think I'll go with the RK x-ring for 104 bucks.  Saw a Tsubaki O-ring for 107 so I was torn but figured on the RK to save 3 bucks

[shinyribs]

the one I was looking at was 9,700 tensile strength

That's a good chain IMO. I got 2 of them in service right now. I had been using other chains and was killing them fast. Like,300 miles between tightenings! I have 1,500 miles on of these chains now and have never had to retighten since it went on. U buddy of mine has one on a 750 matic and has 5k miles on it. Never been tightened since new.

Bike master doesn't make them.They are remarketed chains. One of my BM chains came in as an RK,the other was an EK. Just be sure to get the 9,700 lb chain you mentioned and you'll be happy with it.


FWIW the worse chain I've ever owned(killed) was a Factory Spec bought off ebay.Pure junk. It stretched to the point of useless within 1,000 miles and was spitting out it's o-rings the whole time. I don't normally badmouth brands but these are truly junk IMO. Death waiting to strike,if you ask me.