Topic: Can I clean my carbs without having to re sync?

[mathbishop]

Genius! I guess you just gotta make sure the welding rods are perfectly straight. Should they be able to squeeze in under the slides when they are all the way closed? or do you have to open them a bit to get them all in?

[crazypj]

Lift slides to fit.
Knitting needles work even better but you generally have to buy some (made pf 6061 alloy then powder coated, less chance of damaging slides)

[brewsky]

Cleaned out all the jets as much as I could. Re-set the Float heights. Are there any good bench sync guides I can use before I put them back on my bike? Im also waiting on some new gaskets for my float bowls. My other ones were all shot minus one. The new set of 4 should be here next week, so my carbs will be off probably until next weekend to do any more adjustments to it.

Here's a link to another method:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=113931.0

[brewsky]

Very helpful indeed. Thanks for that geeto. On my carbs my floats are attached to my where my ting is im unsure what exactly I need to measure to. I start at the gasket and end where...

Here is how my carbs look. You can see the ting in there. Am I measure to the ting or the floats themselves? Since the floats are square if I were to measure furthest to the right of the float it would be vastly different if I were to measure furthest to the left.

Sorry for the 90 degree rotation on the stupid picture

Here's how to measure float height:
In most cases the float bottoms end up being parallel to the carb body when correctly adjusted..(not sure if this applies to '76 carbs or not)
As stated before, the measurement is taken when the tang just touches, but does not depress, the float valve tit.

[mathbishop]

for the kind of problem you are describing I would check and lube the ignition advance mechanisim before blaming the carbs. What do your spark plugs tell you?

back to this. How do I lube/check the timing advance??? sorry i still dont know what everything is.

[trueblue]

You first need to remove the points plate, then the 10mm bolt/nut on the end of the crank, the advance unit should pull off the end of the crank.  Before you disassemble it, mark it, it is possible to put it together 180 out.  Give it a good clean out and a little grease and put it back together .

[mathbishop]

Can it be checked to see if its sticking before taking it off?

[trueblue]

If you have access to a strobe timing light, hook it up and point it at your timing marks, rev it up  and it should be moving from the F mark at idle to the full advance mark over 3500rpm, some bikes come into full advance earlier others later, depending on model.  If you don't have a strobe timing light then you can grab the points cam with your fingers and try to turn it either way, it should be able to turn a little clockwise? (from memory).  Then it should snap back when you release it.

[mathbishop]

So anything over 3500 RPMS I should bee seeing the advance mark?

[Geeto67]

yeah you should be all in by 4000 rpms at the most.

[trueblue]

yeah you should be all in by 4000 rpms at the most.

+1