Author Topic: Just another 71 CB750 K1 (After over a year, I finally got some 4 into 4 pipes!) (Read 92030 times)

edhaeuser · « **Reply #25 on:** January 07, 2013, 08:59:24 AM »

Tews,

I hope I can dig up a set of pipes this spring. I did see a repro set on eBay a few weeks ago. Not there now though. I'm just hoping to find a set that looks good. They don't have to be exact for the year of the bike.

Ed

Stev-o · « **Reply #26 on:** January 07, 2013, 04:31:05 PM »

Chain breaks were an issue back then. Pull the sprocket cover (2 screws), clean out the gunk and see if the case is damaged.

mwvachon · « **Reply #27 on:** January 08, 2013, 07:36:10 PM »

Sprocket cover - hole? Welcome to the nightmare I've been living. Also currently doing a K1 (My CB755 Project). The sprocket cover was missing a chunk on mine as well. I should have looked it over a bit closer when I bought it, but figured it was no big deal. Seems broken/patched cases are more common on these than I thought. I went through two salvage engines to find just one that did not have a damaged engine case. Since I was in it that far, I've decided to do crank bearings, primary chains, etc... I'm aiming for perfect this time around. Wish you were closer - would love to compare notes with another restorer while I'm building mine...

edhaeuser · « **Reply #28 on:** January 09, 2013, 08:22:14 AM »

Quote from: mwvachon on January 08, 2013, 07:36:10 PM

Sprocket cover - hole? Welcome to the nightmare I've been living. Also currently doing a K1 (My CB755 Project). The sprocket cover was missing a chunk on mine as well. I should have looked it over a bit closer when I bought it, but figured it was no big deal. Seems broken/patched cases are more common on these than I thought. I went through two salvage engines to find just one that did not have a damaged engine case. Since I was in it that far, I've decided to do crank bearings, primary chains, etc... I'm aiming for perfect this time around. Wish you were closer - would love to compare notes with another restorer while I'm building mine...

This bike had the hole in the cover back when I bought it back in 1980. I rode it for 9 years and don't remember it leaking in that area. I'm keeping my fingers crossed for when I get home from work next week and pull the engine. Maybe everything will be fine. Who knows.

It blows that I have to be away at work when I really want to get more done on the bike. But, I have to pay for my toys somehow :-)

dusterdude · « **Reply #29 on:** January 10, 2013, 06:35:05 PM »

K1's forever!!!!

edhaeuser · « **Reply #30 on:** January 21, 2013, 12:52:36 PM »

Well, not a lot of forward progress to report. I am just in the process of tearing the bike down. Progress is slow after a couple weeks of traveling for work and then coming home and getting a nasty virus. Very frustrating.

I have gotten a few hours here and there to work on it though.

A question on this photo. I think the horn mounting tab should be parallel to the cylinder head. Is that correct. I'm thinking I need to bend it forward before finishing.

Next question. The side stand has a bend that bends forward. Is this right or do I need to straighten this also

edhaeuser · « **Reply #31 on:** January 21, 2013, 01:12:44 PM »

The engine is out and the frame is nearly ready to be cleaned, blasted and coated. I have to remove the center and side stands, bearing cups, and misc. rubber grommets. Thanks to my 15 year old son for helping me manuever the frame off the engine.

MoMo · « **Reply #32 on:** January 21, 2013, 01:58:23 PM »

Both items are out of whack, both should be as you surmised...Larry

Garystratos201 · « **Reply #33 on:** January 21, 2013, 02:13:11 PM »

Yes the horn bracket and side stand are bent..............Gary

bjatwood · « **Reply #34 on:** January 21, 2013, 04:13:07 PM »

This one looks like it has some promise to it! Subscribed

edhaeuser · « **Reply #35 on:** January 21, 2013, 05:06:26 PM »

Thanks Larry and Gary for the fast response on the "bent" questions. I figured as much, but I wanted to make sure. I love having access to the vast knowledge on this board.

I got a little more done this afternoon. The center stand and side stand are now removed. The center stand was scraped off from over zealous corners or getting laid down sometime in the past so I decided to build that area back up and shape with a grinder and file. Little did I know that the ball on the end of the center stand was actually hollow. Thinking it was solid, I cranked up the amps on my Lincoln 180 MIG. I layed a good long bead to heat it up good and blew a hole right through it. Oops, I backed off the amps and used a series of short bursts to fill the hole back up and then build up the whole area. It looks decent now.

Before

After

edhaeuser · « **Reply #36 on:** January 22, 2013, 06:06:22 PM »

Well, here is another question. I wish I had the Hondaman book to help out with this stuff, but that will have to wait for payday next month. I spent a little time working on getting the swingarm bushings out. I inserted my blind bearing puller and attempted to pull it out with the slide hammer. No go. I'm thinking that judicious use of heat and driving against the puller from through the swingarm might do the trick. I suppose the best method is a shop press, but I don't have one yet, and I drive an hour each way when I need to use one. If necessary, I will make the drive.

Is the blind puller acceptable for this job?

Thanks!!!

iron_worker · « **Reply #37 on:** January 22, 2013, 06:17:48 PM »

It's hard to tell but does that puller have split lines like a collet and expands to fit into the bushing?

Were you having trouble grabbing the bushing or was it a problem of just the slide hammer was just not enough. A few heat cycles on the swingarm may help to break the corrosion bond.

Some people try using a hack saw blade to carefully cut a few slits in the bushing to weaken it and then try to drive it out.

I used a trick I found here. Take a heavy washer that is roughly the outside diameter of the bushing or ID of the swingarm. Cut two flats on opposing sides such that the remaining width is equal to or less than the inside diameter of the bushing. Now you can slide the washer through the bushing since it is narrow enough across the flats and then turn it 90 degrees once it's inside so the rough edges now seat onto the back of the bushing. Then you can put a socket/extension or a big drift through the other side of the swing arm to really beat on it.

If that makes any sense... ha

IW

iron_worker · « **Reply #38 on:** January 22, 2013, 06:23:16 PM »

I found a picture for ya:

The three washers in the bottom left are what I used. It's tough to see since they are greasy but they have the flats cut in them. I used three because I wasn't sure that one would hold. I thought it might fold up and sort of jam into the bushing instead of push it through.

The long nuts were used in conjunction with a couple sockets to drive the shock bushings out of the swingarm. One socket on one side just smaller than the diameter of the bushing and a large socket on the other side large enough for the bushing to be pushed into. The long bolts go through the whole thing and then you draw it all together with a couple wrenches. I had to really torque the hell out of it to get them free as you can see they are bent but it got the job done.

IW

cheftuskey121 · « **Reply #39 on:** January 22, 2013, 06:26:38 PM »

Ed, its great to see the progress, I just got done doing this last week. to get my bushings out I used the long rear engine bolt and used the bolt head end to push up against the far bushing inside the swingarm. got it seated inside just right to where I could hit the other end with a 2lb dead blow hammer. I didnt wail on it too badly but shifted the bolt around to get all around the lip of the bushings. both came out in about 30 minutes and no harm was done. look forward to your progress! hopefully I can actually answer some questions as mine is a K1.

cheftuskey121 · « **Reply #40 on:** January 22, 2013, 06:28:04 PM »

IW, thats a great idea too, such a larger more centered area to hit than the small lip of the bushing I managed to whack away at. more prep, less beating. mine was the polar opposite! haha

edhaeuser · « **Reply #41 on:** January 22, 2013, 07:16:42 PM »

Quote from: iron_worker on January 22, 2013, 06:17:48 PM

It's hard to tell but does that puller have split lines like a collet and expands to fit into the bushing?

Were you having trouble grabbing the bushing or was it a problem of just the slide hammer was just not enough. A few heat cycles on the swingarm may help to break the corrosion bond.

Some people try using a hack saw blade to carefully cut a few slits in the bushing to weaken it and then try to drive it out.

I used a trick I found here. Take a heavy washer that is roughly the outside diameter of the bushing or ID of the swingarm. Cut two flats on opposing sides such that the remaining width is equal to or less than the inside diameter of the bushing. Now you can slide the washer through the bushing since it is narrow enough across the flats and then turn it 90 degrees once it's inside so the rough edges now seat onto the back of the bushing. Then you can put a socket/extension or a big drift through the other side of the swing arm to really beat on it.

If that makes any sense... ha

IW

Yes, it is an expandable split collet. I didn't have a problem gripping....just didn't move the bushing with the slide hammer. I like the flat washer idea, I have actually used something similar to this in the past.....but I forgot all about it :-)

Chef, thanks for the input. I have an eye on your thread also!!

Garystratos201 · « **Reply #42 on:** January 23, 2013, 04:56:50 AM »

K1 builders unite !!!................Gary

edhaeuser · « **Reply #43 on:** January 23, 2013, 09:58:07 PM »

Alrighty then. Here is a partial list of needed and wanted items. Some stuff will obviously be new and others, such as fenders can be in good to very good used condition. I have not put prices down yet because I don't want to get sticker shock quite yet. I am open to suggestions if you have a good line on some of these items. I should have put the Hondaman book at the top of this list!

1.   Rear Shocks
2.   Seat - undecided, maybe used from Tews, a member here, or NOS from EBay
3.   Wheel bearings - All Balls
4.   Tapered steering bearings - All Balls
5.   Swingarm bushings - what to get and where?
6.   Exhaust (original style preferred depending on cost)
7.   Rubber grommets (Various)
8.   Wiring harness - Z1 enterprises
9.   Tank badges and a couple side cover badges
10.   Fork tubes (can probably use what I have for now)
11.   Right headlight ear (might be able to straighten mine though)
12.   New Cables
13.   Carb rebuild kits or just gasket and needle seat....will see when torn down
14.   Alternator cover
15.   Engine sprocket cover
16.   Front turn signals
17.   Fenders ( mine are pretty rough)
18.   Rims - David Silver Spares?
19.   Spokes
20.   Candy Red or Candy Gold paint (I have all guns and paint equipment required) - CT70paint.com?
21.   Fuel tank moulding - David Silver Spares?
22.   Headlight bucket assembly
23.   Left switch assembly - Z1 or David Silver
24.   Master and slave brake rebuild kits
25.   Side covers....maybe? - Z1?
26.   Chain
27.   Brake pads

cheftuskey121 · « **Reply #44 on:** January 23, 2013, 10:17:08 PM »

oh no, not the list......I am too scared to make a big list. just taking it a section at a time. bought my rims, spokes, bearings, tires, tubes, rim strips. going to rebuild the wheels and front forks and get that back on. also getting my brake rotor drilled and overhauling the front brake. safety first! especially since this whole wrenching thing is new to me its ok that my budget it forcing me to be slow. otherwise I would be too distracted with all the new parts. keep it coming man. love these threads!

Garystratos201 · « **Reply #45 on:** January 24, 2013, 06:38:17 AM »

DO NOT !!!I repeat DO NOT !! make a list. The main reason is if the wife finds it and the related receipts is grounds for divorce in most States...........Gary

Stev-o · « **Reply #46 on:** January 24, 2013, 06:59:39 AM »

Def hide the receipts. And never, never total it up.

Dream750 · « **Reply #47 on:** January 24, 2013, 07:17:45 AM »

Quote from: edhaeuser on January 23, 2013, 09:58:07 PM

Alrighty then. Here is a partial list of needed and wanted items. Some stuff will obviously be new and others, such as fenders can be in good to very good used condition. I have not put prices down yet because I don't want to get sticker shock quite yet. I am open to suggestions if you have a good line on some of these items. I should have put the Hondaman book at the top of this list!

9. Tank badges and a couple side cover badges
20. Candy Red or Candy Gold paint

Check with Randy at Marbles Motors for paint. Good quality stuff and the correct Honda colors too:

http://www.marblesmotors.com/index.htm

Beware of the cheap reproduction K1 red side cover emblems as the Honda wing is missing the letters "HM" and they overall just don't look right when compared to the genuine emblems.

mwvachon · « **Reply #48 on:** January 24, 2013, 03:07:47 PM »

Rims?
Got a nice pair of DID's from Z1-Enterprizes

Product         Qty    Price    Total
PM72-5141
Rim Fr 19" Chrome Z1 KZ900/1000 H2    1    $89.50    $89.50

PM72-5142
Rim Rr 18" Chrome Z1 KZ900 H2      1    $111.50    $111.50
Shipping:    $11.13
Taxes:    $0.00
Total:    $212.13

cheftuskey121 · « **Reply #49 on:** January 24, 2013, 05:23:10 PM »

Wow I wish I would have checked there! I got my DIDs from an eBay store and paid $280 total. I should shop around more!

News:

Author Topic: Just another 71 CB750 K1 (After over a year, I finally got some 4 into 4 pipes!) (Read 92030 times)