Topic: Just another 71 CB750 K1 (After over a year, I finally got some 4 into 4 pipes!)

[edhaeuser]

What is your All Balls kit number? It should be 25-1307 for the front.

The kit number is 25-1307.  the bearings are in plastic bags marked 6303-2RD-QE6.  There is no way these bearings are going to fit my hub .  The small seal on the retainer is correct for my hub, the large one on the speedo drive is not.....

I wish I knew what is going on here,  I am afraid that someone swapped out the wheel and axle before I got the bike.  The strange thing is that this kit looks like it should fit just about any Honda front wheel from that era.

I am going to send off an email to allballs and see what they say.

the old bearings are markes 6302 and the new ones are marked 6303.  Quite a difference in size.



My hub did fit the new rim and spokes I ordered though

[Bru-tom]

very nice work man!

[cheftuskey121]

that larger seal is not for the speedo drive, I had to order mine separately. I never thought to measure my bearings, but I bought the same kit and they fit into my hubs with some careful persuasion. froze the bearings, heated the hubs with a torch, bearing grease and a hand held bearing press and some hammer action. maybe my measurements were off too, but they are in the hubs now so its a little late for that.

Edit: after looking at that photo the bearing sizes are clearly off! my mistake

[edhaeuser]

Edit: after looking at that photo the bearing sizes are clearly off! my mistake

Yeah, they are 5mm larger....frustrating to think that I did all that work and it may be the wrong hub for the bike.  I know it will work though, because I rode it for years that way

[edhaeuser]

Well, I think I may have solved the front bearing problem.  Both CB750 supply and Z1 show that the front bearing number should be 6302 which matches my old bearings.  The All Balls kit had 6303 bearings in it which are not correct.  I am waiting to hear back from All Balls.

If anyone has a set around, would you mind checking the bearing number just to make sure?

Ed

[Dream750]

Looks like you received the wrong bearings.

6302 is the correct bearing number for CB750 K front hubs, as it was used from the K0 to K6. Here’s the original parts list if you want to ID the bearings by Honda part number:

(double click on diagrams for larger view)

[edhaeuser]

Looks like you received the wrong bearings.

6302 is the correct bearing number for CB750 K front hubs, as it was used from the K0 to K6. Here’s the original parts list if you want to ID the bearings by Honda part number:

(double click on diagrams for larger view)

Thank You for verifying this for me!!!!!!!!

This whole bearing thing sure wasted a lot of my time 

[edhaeuser]

While waiting for resolution of my front bearing issue I installed the bearings in the rear hub and laced up the rim.  I had purchased the rims from David Silver Spares to try to save a few bucks.  The front one was fairly decent but the rear is marginal.  I decided to use them anyway.  They look pretty good all built up.  This is the first time I have laced up a rim since I worked in a bicycle shop back in the early eighties.  The lacing was easy but I still need to true them up...that will probably take a while.

[Garystratos201]

Looking good so far.......Gary

[edhaeuser]

After heading off to work for a while, I got a little more time to work on the bike.  First up was renewing the various bushings in the swingarm and then installing it on the frame.

I used a threaded rod with bearing/bushing drivers I got at Harbor Freight and they drew right in while turning the nuts. 



Same here with the shock absorber bushings.



New swing arm collar from Service Honda:



I borrowed the penny trick from Cheftuskey.  I put the hooked end of the spring in the vice and bent the spring....inserting the pennies in the gap while bending.  this was just enough pennies to slip the spring on.



And the spring is on!

[edhaeuser]

Next is the lower tree.  You may recall that my original one was damaged by the lower race and had a bent steering tube.  I picked up a used front end locally that was rough, but I was hoping to get some used parts from.  I knew the steering stop was broken, but I figured I could weld it up.

Here is the process....The stop was not broken all the way off, but there was very little holding it on.  I broke it off the rest of the way and ground some away to allow for more penetration of the weld.



Getting ready to tack it on.  It is held in place with a magnet.



And here it is welded up before grinding and filing it back down.



Here it is finished up and fresh out of the oven



On the bike.  New All Balls tapered bearings installed.  I had to use the thin spacer to get the stack height correct as per the directions in the kit.

[cheftuskey121]

great stuff ed! I didn't put a new collar in my swingarm, as I didnt know they were still available new (at the time). now I am curious if I should pop off the swingarm and get the old collar out and put a new one in....everything else is new, makes sense to me. great save on that steering stop! keep up the good work man

[edhaeuser]

great stuff ed! I didn't put a new collar in my swingarm, as I didnt know they were still available new (at the time). now I am curious if I should pop off the swingarm and get the old collar out and put a new one in....everything else is new, makes sense to me. great save on that steering stop! keep up the good work man

My collar was totally trashed.  If yours did not show any wear and was a good fit is probably OK.  Of course, now is the time to do it if you want to.  I think the collar was around $45 at Service Honda.

Ed

[iron_worker]

When you said your rear wheel was marginal did you mean the fitment or did you mean the quality of it?

I found the same thing. Front one mounted up ok but the rear got all bound up and just did not want to fit properly. I ended up buying DID wheels... I've been meaning to send DSS a nice letter...

IW

[edhaeuser]

When you said your rear wheel was marginal did you mean the fitment or did you mean the quality of it?

I found the same thing. Front one mounted up ok but the rear got all bound up and just did not want to fit properly. I ended up buying DID wheels... I've been meaning to send DSS a nice letter...

IW

The front was ok,  the rear was marginal for fit and finish.  My rear rim has slight marks about every six inches from the production process.  I did have to drill and angle the holes for the spokes that go from the inside to the outside on the rear.  After that the fit was good.  I would have liked to get the DID rims, but I feel that these will be safe and I need to save up for an exhaust system and other parts that keep cropping up.

EDIT....I CANNOT RECOMMEND THE REAR RIM FROM DSS.  AFTER TRUEING THE RIM, SOME OF THE SPOKES HAD AN UNNATURAL BEND TO THEM.  I AM REMOVING THE RIM AND ORDERING A DID RIM.

[cheftuskey121]

Any more progress Ed?

[edhaeuser]

Any more progress Ed?

Going sloooowww.  I'm installing the new wiring harness.  I powder coated some more bits and pieces.  My replacement front wheel bearings just showed up yesterday from all balls (they are in the freezer as
I type).  Waiting on delivery of new guage faces so I can get them done. I rewired my ignition harness because it was a mess from a PO.  Front forks ready for install but my local Honda Shop got me the wrong fork seals.  I'm waiting to hear back from a friend about borrowing a trueing stand.....if I don't hear back I guess I will have to buy one.

There are lots of little pain in the ass roadblocks right now.

Little by little between work and family.

Ed

[cheftuskey121]

understandable! progress is progress though. the truing stand I bought is made by Tusk and it has been fantastic so far, adjustable feet and a level built in so you can check it. I bought a magnetic base w/ arms and runout gauge kit from amazon for <$30. my local shop wanted $240 for both wheels. I did it for $120 and satisfaction

[iron_worker]

When you said your rear wheel was marginal did you mean the fitment or did you mean the quality of it?

I found the same thing. Front one mounted up ok but the rear got all bound up and just did not want to fit properly. I ended up buying DID wheels... I've been meaning to send DSS a nice letter...

IW

The front was ok,  the rear was marginal for fit and finish.  My rear rim has slight marks about every six inches from the production process.  I did have to drill and angle the holes for the spokes that go from the inside to the outside on the rear.  After that the fit was good.  I would have liked to get the DID time, but I feel that these will be safe and I need to save up for an exhaust system and other parts that keep cropping up.

Yeah I found the same thing. I didn't try drilling out the rear spokes holes. I ordered the DID rims at great expense to myself... Perhaps DSS should be getting an angry letter from us!

I was OK with the chrome being "ish" on the repro wheels since they are ~1/3 of the price... but not fitting right is just not acceptable to me.

IW

[edhaeuser]

OK, so here is an incomplete photo essay on my gauge rebuilding experience.  I have no before pictures, but I'm sure you have seen old, tired, and crusty gauges.  I started by removing the chrome backs and the rubber ring that the clamps go around to hold the guages.  This gave me access to the retaining rings.  I started with a very small screwdriver and began to pry the bottom of the ring away from the housing....unfortunately, I did not take any of this. I kept working around and switched to a larger screwdriver until I could separate the black housing from the back.  There is a blue/green inner housing inside the black one....I separated these also

First photo is the inner housings after separating them from the outer black housing.....really rusty and crusty.



the same housing repainted with the closest color I could find at the local Hardware store.



I don't have a before picture of the outer housings, but one of them was bent up.  I used a kitchen spoon and worked the dents out as well as I could.  Then I bead blasted and powdercoated them.



I saw this nifty trick on getting the needles off.  It works great.



One of my guages had the typical broken light reflector



So I glued it with epoxy and reinforced with a nail with the head cut off (arrow A)  Disregard B and C as they were for another post on this forum.



I bought new faces from EBay and painted my needles



Now it is time to refit the rings to the housing.  I tried to figure out a way to reseat the rings without marring them up.  So.....after thinking about it I took a little trip to the local building supply store and picked up a 2 foot section of 4 inch pvc pipe and an end piece that had the perfect 4 inch inside diameter, which is the same at the outside diameter of the gauge.  The 2 foot length allowed me to sit in a chair and set the pipe on the floor and turn the pipe as I worked my way around.  I did have to grind 1/2 inch of the threads off the pipe so I could fit a hose clamp around the guage ring.  I used the hose clamp to help the ring maintain its shape.







Then I used and aluminum drift and gently tapped the ring down around the housing.  I went around twice, and rotated the clamp when I got to the area of the screw tightener because it did not press up tight to the ring in that area.



The ring seated and the hose clamp removed



The finished product

[brandEn]

Great tip on the PVC! thanks. I just might use that idea.

[Garystratos201]

Very n9ice work on the guages. I can see somewhere in the future doing mine also. You made it look easy.........Gary

[edhaeuser]

It really wasn't that hard Gary.  The hardest part for me was getting the rings off without mangling them.  The next time I do gauges like this should go pretty quick with a lot less head scratching.

[Spike]

Very nice work on the gauges.  And thanks for taking the time to do the photos and the write up.  It will help a lot of people in the future!

[mwvachon]

Love, love, love that gauge rebuild bit! I'll definitely be looking at this again when I get there!