Author Topic: Painting Side Covers (Read 4386 times)

thenewbie · « **on:** January 07, 2013, 12:56:32 PM »

I'm going to paint my side covers (not because theirs something wrong with the paint) because I just dont like poop brown. Can I sand down the top few coats and paint over the primer? Or should I just strip it all in some brake fluid and start new. And if some one could explain to me how the search feature works that would be wonderful because I feel like some of the questions I'm asking have probably already been asked.

greenjeans · « **Reply #1 on:** January 07, 2013, 01:02:28 PM »

If they are in good shape, I'd just wetsand them with some 600. No need to take all the paint off.

What type of paint will you be using ? Definitely hit them with some primer/sealer before you put the color on.

thenewbie · « **Reply #2 on:** January 07, 2013, 01:21:47 PM »

I've got Krylon and Krylon Fusion (rattle can). The Krylon Fusion is supposed to be for plastic but they didnt have the color I wanted so thats why I have the regular Krylon as well. My original plan was just to take all the paint off and spray down the krylon fusion and then the regular krylon. I do have a Dupli-color filler/primer. Can I use the Dupli-color and then the regular Krylon? Or should I have a Krylon primer?

nccb · « **Reply #3 on:** January 07, 2013, 01:24:39 PM »

just type what your looking for in the Google Custom Searh. It is right under the Home button which is subsequently under your picture

greenjeans · « **Reply #4 on:** January 07, 2013, 01:36:56 PM »

If you're just using Krylon, just wetsand with 600. Either primer should be fine. Color ?

thenewbie · « **Reply #5 on:** January 07, 2013, 01:59:14 PM »

Side covers will be red, tank is going to be silver, and i've got some yellow plug wires. Hopefully it will look kind of like an old rc181. And thank you nccb. I kept using the search box in the top right hand corner and it kept returning nothing.

750K · « **Reply #6 on:** January 07, 2013, 04:17:06 PM »

If you're just spray painting them just give it a good wet sand, hit them with wax and grease remover, prime and paint. I've always found sticking with the same brand of primer as the final paint is the best way to avoid problems, also make sure your painting in a semi warm area. The final coat can haze sometimes if it's gloss and it's cold out.

Magilla · « **Reply #7 on:** January 07, 2013, 04:22:21 PM »

I could not disagree more. Remove ALL OF THE PAINT before you repaint it. The longer you spend on the prep work, the longer and nicer the finished product be. Also do not use brake fluid or any liquid solvent to remove the paint. Use sand paper and elbow grease. Also when sanding use a small rubber or foam block and wrap the sandpaper around it. This will reduce the risk of burning finger lines into the side panels.

For the impossible to reach nooks and crannies, use a small knife to chip out the paint.

When all the paint is removed, sand with a fine grit and remove any highs and lows you have. Use a sandable poly based primer. This will give you a thicker coat that will fill in some low spots. Wet sand it and don't forget to use your block. Never wet sand with just sandpaper and your hand. When your done. Do it again. Add another coat and the wet sand.

Inspect the covers closely, they should be ready for paint.

bjatwood · « **Reply #8 on:** January 07, 2013, 04:46:49 PM »

I've scuffed and painted plastic panels for many years with out issues. By scuffing the old paint you will take off any paint that is not properly adhering to the plastic. Going down to just the plastic base is ludicrous, IMO...
Good Luck

Geeto67 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 07, 2013, 04:51:27 PM »

using brake fluid to strip paint is pretty stupid. esp on plastic where it will a) ruin the plastic, b) soak in and prevent you from getting good adhesion on the new paint.

cougar · « **Reply #10 on:** January 07, 2013, 05:35:33 PM »

newbie ; You may place an ad in the For Sale section first . Some body out there may be looking for a set of poop brown covers. May be able to sell them for some decent coin (depending on condition) and buy a set that need paint for less. Just a thought ! ...cougar...

ShermanPain · « **Reply #11 on:** January 07, 2013, 05:55:33 PM »

If the paint is chipped or flaking sand it all the way down. if it is good scuff sand. I wash things with tsp which removes residue and helps the paint stick. use lots of thin coats if possible to avoid runs etc. +1 on same brand being the best way to go if possible they do lab tests for durability and they are engineered to work together. you would probably be okay using different primer and paint but safer is better

thenewbie · « **Reply #12 on:** January 07, 2013, 07:50:24 PM »

And another thing, the previous owner broke one of the little nubs that hold the cover to the bike. He just glued it back on or somthing and now its cracking at the seam. Any special product I should use to pull it back together?

Stev-o · « **Reply #13 on:** January 07, 2013, 07:53:06 PM »

Quote from: thenewbie on January 07, 2013, 07:50:24 PM

And another thing, the previous owner broke one of the little nubs that hold the cover to the bike. He just glued it back on or somthing....

I'd buy another cover before wasting time on a broken one

750K · « **Reply #14 on:** January 07, 2013, 11:30:04 PM »

Quote from: Magilla on January 07, 2013, 04:22:21 PM

I could not disagree more. Remove ALL OF THE PAINT before you repaint it. The longer you spend on the prep work, the longer and nicer the finished product be.

If we were talking about a base clear, or kandies etc I'd agree with you all the way. But the guy is talking about spraying it with krylon, so a good scuff or wet sand will suffice prior to priming. As long as the surface is smooth and the covers are degreased he'll get as good of a finish as if he stripped it and sanded and primed and sanded. Not worth the time to get anal when it's a krylon finish, it'll never harden like a multi stage paint would anyway. It will most likely get chipped or scratched at some point anyway, get it smooth and clean and it will look great from a few feet away.

Granted I was starting with Frankie's new side covers all I did was scuff with a scotch bright pad, no wet sanding between the two primer coats or between the two coats of gloss black rust paint I got at Wal mart. I degreased it well and layed it on fairly thick, the finish coat is smooth but it obviously isn't cleared when your up close and personal. Not bad for rattle can rust paint.

ShermanPain · « **Reply #15 on:** January 07, 2013, 11:54:08 PM »

Those look pretty good 750K! is that Tremclad gloss black or a specific automotive paint?

750K · « **Reply #16 on:** January 08, 2013, 12:32:09 AM »

Sherman, it's Rust Check brand primer and gloss black rust paint. It's in the automotive section with the body fillers and wet/dry sandpaper, it's not bad stuff and I've been spraying crap with rattle cans for years haha.

Where abouts in the Okanagen are you, my in-laws are outside of Vernon. Hope to be living up that way in a few more years, love it up that way. Just plain beautiful up there.

ShermanPain · « **Reply #17 on:** January 08, 2013, 12:42:08 AM »

Okay I think Ive seen it before, nothing wrong with the rattle cans, I painted my emblems black with duplicolour primer/paint, looks awesome. Im debating doing the same to the front and rear fenders and perhaps the signal stalks.

I live in Kelowna but I was born in Vernon. Where abouts are they? It definitely is beautiful up here, great local riding too. I definitely encourage a move up here!

faux fiddy · « **Reply #18 on:** January 08, 2013, 01:55:25 AM »

I'm working on a tank that I plan to do rattle can with duplicolor, a dark blue ford color and I'm leaving what was there with a bit of sanding to make it stick. Keep dust down and wipe it down with acetone (yer 'ol lady's nail polish remover) or alcohol and let it dry. They make prep stuff too, but make sure it dries.

I use a one part non epoxy sanding sealer that was laying around in the shop forever. Not even sure what it is, but it sands down to where you can see the bright orange product in the grooves of the last grit of paper you used cut and you know it is getting finally smooth....

70CB750 · « **Reply #19 on:** January 08, 2013, 03:53:57 AM »

Franken's side covers need layer of sandable primer sanded smooth before you paint them. You will see and feel the difference it you use filler first.

My $0.02 only.

750K · « **Reply #20 on:** January 08, 2013, 09:58:18 AM »

^^^Mine didn't need sanding between primer coats, the only imperfections the side covers had were the odd pin hole void on the backside. I sprayed the backside with a paintable undercoating, which filled any pinholes.

The fronts were super smooth, just needed a scuffing for some tooth. I find with spray paint if you do your first coat and let it tack up a couple min you can do a bit of a heavier second coat wet on wet, the second layer will self level a bit and you can eliminate that wet sand between coats. Same with the gloss black, I let it flash and tack up and then hit it wet on wet a few times. You have to be real careful not to get runs but if you pull it off you end up with a super smooth final finish and a nice gloss.

Been doing it this way for years with good results, once you get comfortable with spray paint you can do some great finishes with it. It just doesn't have the durability of anything you can add hardeners too unfortunately.

Oh, Sherman. My in-laws are past Lumby in Cherryville.

ShermanPain · « **Reply #21 on:** January 08, 2013, 10:57:36 AM »

Right on 750 highway 6 from Vernon to Cherryville and beyond is a great ride

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Author Topic: Painting Side Covers (Read 4386 times)