Author Topic: Help restoring Henry Abe wheels (Read 10206 times)

Scott S · « **on:** January 17, 2013, 02:16:50 PM »

Last year, I stumbled across a set of really rare Henry Abe wheels for my Honda CB500/550.

These wheels were originally anodized, I believe. You can see the sort of plum color on the unrestored wheels. I'm told that this is old, faded anodizing.

I took them to a friends body shop and used his soda blaster to clean them. I then spent a LONG time taping them up.

Scott S · « **Reply #1 on:** January 17, 2013, 02:17:14 PM »

I was going to have him paint them, but he's super busy so, after they sat there for a few months, I took them home and spray bombed them. They initially looked pretty good.

However, I guess I didn't clean them well enough. The front one, anyway. Almost immediately, the paint started flaking off.

How can I prep these wheels? I've considered paint stripper, but don't know what that will do to the aluminum. Maybe a ScotchBrite pad and retape, but what can I do to assure the paint sticks next time? I used some Preps All on a paper towel before painting them last time, but apparently I didn't do something right.

The lips of the spokes are machined. The lips of the rim are smoother, but I don't think I can polish them to a mirror shine. At least not with the equipment I have.

Scott S · « **Reply #2 on:** January 17, 2013, 02:17:42 PM »

Also, can anyone tell me if these need tubes?

BTW: I'm pretty sure the automotive wheel guy just didn't want to bother with them. I have a lead on another shop whose work I trust.
I'd still like opinions on best way to clean them, remove old paint, anodizing (if needed), etc. I really don't think the lips could be mirror polished without a ton of work.

I also have new bearings.....IF I can get the old retainers off. Someone got a little ham-fisted with this one.

Greggo · « **Reply #3 on:** January 17, 2013, 02:44:50 PM »

Have you talked to a powder coater?

Scott S · « **Reply #4 on:** January 17, 2013, 02:53:07 PM »

Yes and no....the automotive wheel guy I referred to in the previous post is a local guy that does wheel repair. He's primarily a car wheel guy.
He said they powdercoat the entire wheel and then have a machine/fixture to "re-machine" the lips and highlighted parts. He said he didn't have a way to tape them off. Sounds like BS to me....I think he just didn't want to mess with them.

If I powdercoat, I'll have to get the bearings out and I'm not sure I can get the retainers to budge.

Stev-o · « **Reply #5 on:** January 17, 2013, 02:54:58 PM »

I recently restored my Lesters. The original[?] paint was still adheard well to the wheel, just thin from being 35+ years old. I pressure washed, then prepped with steel wool, course and then fine, wiped em down with acetone and shot em with semi gloss black. I am happy with the results....

Scott S · « **Reply #6 on:** January 17, 2013, 03:01:22 PM »

I'e done the same on Lesters, too. That's pretty much what I tried on these and it didn't work. Don't know if it's the anodizing, if I didn't get the soda cleaned off well enough, or what...

I'd try it again myself if I knew a safe way to get the spray bomb paint off without damaging the aluminum. I've heard that EZ Off, strippers, etc. can come back out of the aluminum later on.

Greggo · « **Reply #7 on:** January 17, 2013, 03:39:09 PM »

Scott, did you use a primer after scuffing, before painting?

I would suggest scrubbing the paint off with a scotch brite, or sand paper if it's just peeling off.

Scott S · « **Reply #8 on:** January 17, 2013, 03:47:24 PM »

That's what I've been doing today. The rear wheel seems to be holding the paint well. It's the front that's flaking. I'm concerned I won't be able to get to all the nooks and crannies and any new paint will just flake again.
I didn't prime, but I never had to on wheels before.

Greggo · « **Reply #9 on:** January 17, 2013, 03:50:35 PM »

Quote from: Scott S on January 17, 2013, 03:47:24 PM

That's what I've been doing today. The rear wheel seems to be holding the paint well. It's the front that's flaking. I'm concerned I won't be able to get to all the nooks and crannies and any new paint will just flake again.
I didn't prime, but I never had to on wheels before.

If you can get all the paint off the front, and scuff it up in the process..try shooting some primer on it, then see if that sticks..then just shoot the black again. I don't know if I had to, but I primed my lesters before shooting the silver on.

mono · « **Reply #10 on:** January 17, 2013, 03:54:11 PM »

Maybe I'm off the mark here, but couldn't you just soda / bead blast the paint off? You did it once, right?

Or I 2nd the powder coating idea. A good PCer will prep the wheels and properly mask before painting. There's a guy who advertises PCing on my local CL and he shows some pretty complex examples of his work. 2-tone, lots of masked work with multiple layers, candies, clears, etc. I'm sure it's possible.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Scott S · « **Reply #11 on:** January 17, 2013, 04:00:28 PM »

I used a soda blaster at a friend's shop. I don't own one. I'm just wanting to make sure the soda residue isn't what's causing the paint to flake.

Blackhole · « **Reply #12 on:** January 17, 2013, 07:17:58 PM »

I just powder coated mine this past weekend. I too tried soda blasting first and it worked ok but my front wheel needed something a little more. I turned my sand blaster down so I would not hurt the wheel and it cleaned up real well. Make sure you wash them off and scrub them down to get all the soda off or I think you will run into trouble with the paint or PC adhering to the wheel. I would try and replace the bearings before putting too much work into the paint job as you might be sorry when you get them on your bike and find out the bearings are junk. Good luck

Scott S · « **Reply #13 on:** January 18, 2013, 03:42:31 AM »

Blackhole, interesting look with the solid spokes. I think I want to keep the highlights on mine.
How shiny are the rims on yours? I've cleaned mine and sanded with 600/1000/1500. They're still sort of a satin look and don't ever appear to have been highly polished. There's just a difference in the metal finish compared to, say, Lesters or other mag wheels I've seen.

Scott S · « **Reply #14 on:** January 18, 2013, 03:43:53 AM »

Also, since I have a brand new set of All Balls bearings left over fom another project, I think I'll see how much damage I can do and try to get the old bearings out. That will open up the possibility of powdercoating.

spiritof67 · « **Reply #15 on:** January 18, 2013, 06:30:12 AM »

With all the technology available to us today, sometimes we overdo easy projects. I read a recent article in Vintage Motorsport which (1) recommmended against powdercoating for most older wheels because of the temperatures used and the chemicals which make up the "powder" and (2) recommended using Rustoleum (I called the articles' author) instead of any spray paint.

I have a set of 1971 Kimtab magnesium wheels which were hand painted with Rustoleum black 42 years ago, sat around in various garages for the 80's through last year and still when cleaned up are a semi-gloss black. The author said the key was the oil content of Rustoleum. There is no, and I repeat no paint flake on these wheels which in their used days had over 40,000 miles put on them.

Just sayin' here.

Spirit

Scott S · « **Reply #16 on:** January 18, 2013, 07:44:11 AM »

I'm all about doing it myself. Cheap and easy is even better. Just trying to get it done.

spiritof67 · « **Reply #17 on:** January 18, 2013, 10:16:47 AM »

Yo. A couple of paint brushes, a can of Rustoleum, a razor blade and some masking tape and you're good to go. Oh, and paint thinner, but keep it closed while you're working!

Spirit

goldarrow · « **Reply #18 on:** January 18, 2013, 01:37:55 PM »

Scott, if those wheels don't work out for you the way you wanted them to be, I'd be glad to take them off your hands

Blackhole · « **Reply #19 on:** January 18, 2013, 02:32:22 PM »

I powder coated them myself for around $80 and that is with the cost of the PCer as well as the powder. I like the look of the white wheels as I am going for an 80s look. I figured I can now coat the rest of my parts for next to nothing now that I have everything. The wheels are a gloss white. I plan on doing everything on this bike myself. There is enough information on this site and on the internet that there is no longer any job too big for me to at least give it a shot. If it were going to be a show bike it might be different but I just want to ride something a little different then every other bike out there. My wheels didn't look to have the edges machined like yours just the outer ring.

Scott S · « **Reply #20 on:** January 19, 2013, 05:10:00 AM »

Well, we got the rear bearing retainer out yesterday. Everything looks good...cush drive, etc.
The front reatiner? That's another story....

Someone had already boogered up the notches in it and we WILL destroy the retainer in order to get it out. I already have another on order at the local Honda dealer. I just hope we don't damage the threads while removing it.
It's not reverse thread like the rear, is it? We've tried both ways....it's just stuck. Tight. I've read and re-read my manual and searched many a thread online. I see no mention of it being reverse thread. We'll be taking the front wheel to a well equipped Hot-Roc shop owned by one of my Dad's childhood friends. If anyone can save it, Buster can!

Scott S · « **Reply #21 on:** January 21, 2013, 01:07:44 PM »

Well. Got the bearing retainer out....the hard way.

We'll have to clean up a few threads to fit the new retainer.

Scott S · « **Reply #22 on:** January 21, 2013, 01:10:43 PM »

Started with a hand file/pick. May have to finish up with a Dremel wheel on low speed.

Now, the BEST news: A local friend of ours who runs a powdercoating business has agreed to help us out. He said he'd blast them for us, give us the tape so we can prep them, and he'll run them in with a batch of his product. For FREE!
Stay tuned.

Greggo · « **Reply #23 on:** January 21, 2013, 01:26:27 PM »

Was it reverse threaded?

iron_worker · « **Reply #24 on:** January 21, 2013, 02:03:48 PM »

I would guess your paint flaked off due to some residual soda being on the surfaces. Many painters won't warranty their work if the surface is prepped with soda blasting. Bead blasting is a bit more gentle that sand blasting and may be the ticket.

IW

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Author Topic: Help restoring Henry Abe wheels (Read 10206 times)