Topic: 77 750 k rings

[katman]

Hi everyone,
beautiful day here in Fl. starting to put the top end back together on my 77 750K. The top 2 rings are the same right.
Look to be. One is just a little bigger gap before install. No dots are markings on either side. Does it matter which one goes on first.
Think I'll take my 75K out for a spin
Thanks

[74750k4]

Definitely not the same. You did not tell us what brand / part number rings you are using. The top ring is more highly polished, and slightly thinner at the outer edge. What magnification level are you using to find the markings? Look closer. Markings at top of ring.

[katman]

Okay, I did see what looks to be an R on one side of each ring. Also the one with the smaller end gap is slightly
thicker when mic. Does this help to determine which goes were. Honda part # 13011-392-005
Thanks

[Stoli]

When installed in the cylinders, the end gap should be the the same on both. The R faces the cylinder head. The set I just installed on my K8 were a different color than yours so I can't tell which goes on top except for what 74750K4 said about the outer edge.

[74750k4]

I've got 2 complete sets of those new rings sitting right in front of me. Look closer. Get some good light, and magnification. Top ring is a bit narrower at just the outer edge. 2nd ring is square cut, right out to the outer edge. Some sets (that Honda distributes) have a darker 2nd ring too, so even easier to tell.

I'm going to be tackling cylinder bank installation again today, after breaking a few 2nd rings      I made some nice aluminum square tubing blocks to square things up under the piston, and have moved to hose clamps to compress the rings. My big worry is moving to cylinders 1, and 4, after getting 2, and 3 installed, seems almost impossible.

It's interesting... you never see much about installing the cylinder bank. It's such a PITA, and no one ever does photos, videos, or write ups on their experiences. Probably because they were all bad ones. I don't hear anyone saying what a lovely time they had .  Hell, the lousy Clymer manual skips that part entirely! At least the factory manual mentions it. Maybe I'll try to document my efforts...

[katman]

Okay, got the r's on top and the shiner ring at the top as 74750K said. Got pistons back on rods. Let me know how you tackled
cylinder install went.
Thanks

[Stoli]

Don't forget to orient the ring gaps every 120 degrees.

[74750k4]

Don't forget to orient the ring gaps every 120 degrees.

It went!
Piston 1/4 not too bad, you get to use blocks under the piston. Very important. I used 1 !/4" alumin square tubing from McMaster-Carr. Hose clamps work pretty good, just take your time and position correctly, and tighten JUST enough, no more.
Cyl 1/4 are another story. You don't get to use blocks. Piston skirts are below the case holes. Crazy, cuz you end up getting all 4 pistons about the same height, and that's the key. That's when the cylinder bank goes down on to 1/4. If you try to get 1/4 high enough to use blocks, 2/3 rings, are going to come out of the cylinder. Patience is the key here. I can't understand why anyone would try to assemble the top end, and then install the crank, and lower case. What a waste.

I'll post a couple photos later.

[74750k4]

Here the 1/4 pistons just got slid in to the cylinders, and I loosened up the hose clamps. You can sort of tell all 4 pistons are at about the same height.

[74750k4]

What it looks like from the top...

[74750k4]

A much closer look. At this point, the cylinder bank can be worked slowly down into the crankcase, after removing the hose clamps...

[katman]

Okay,
Top and bottom rings situated. Now on the 2 thin oil rings I cannot find any markings. Just some lines on one side that
look like they might have come from the center spring ring while in the box. Is there a top and bottom on these.
thanks for all your help