Author Topic: 1972 cb350f cafe build (Read 23292 times)

Nick0 · « **on:** January 28, 2013, 09:05:54 pm »

New to the forum, picked up a few salvage cb350f's last moth and began a cafe racer style build. Was able get three incomplete bikes for 200$. One frame had a title other two didn't (using the other two for parts). here is a picture of what i am starting with.

Nick0 · « **Reply #1 on:** January 28, 2013, 09:59:06 pm »

the frame in the front of the bottom picture was the titled one i ran a compression test and found everything to be working as it should(don't remember exact figures but all above 100), i ordered a rack of carbs off ebay (130$) and intake manifolds (28$) then began to tear down the front end on one of the parts bikes and swapped it over. i took a look at the points plate and found by testing with multimeter it had one bad condenser. I was able to pull a working condenser off one of the parts frames and swap out the bad one. I reassembled and re-gapped the points then ordered coils (50$). with coils and points installed i was able to get it running without cleaning the carbs. last registered in 84 so i am assuming it hasn't run in ~28 years ? 408$ dollars into her so far $:-\$ . Im not quite sure about points plate positioning, it seems to have about a 20 degree range of motion from side to side (not when tightened of course but for adjustment purposes) but how do i know where to set it within this arc. Any help advise/help appreciated. I got a cb350 twin rear wheel from a salvage yard in richmond for 30$ put that on and its starting to look more and more like a bike.

Nick0 · « **Reply #2 on:** January 29, 2013, 05:09:30 am »

Started making a foam mold for a cafe style seat. Going to lay fiberglass over it. I bought the green floral arrangement foam from Michaels attached it to a plank of the stiffer white foam with 3m spray adhesive.

foam bricks glued to backing board and laid on bike

the shaping begins, 220 grit loose piece of sandpaper for major shaping, 80 grit loose piece for finishing/smoothing.

iron_worker · « **Reply #3 on:** January 29, 2013, 06:08:49 am »

The angle of adjustment on your points plate is how you set the timing of your spark.

IW

Nick0 · « **Reply #4 on:** January 29, 2013, 07:28:42 am »

Quote from: iron_worker on January 29, 2013, 06:08:49 am

The angle of adjustment on your points plate is how you set the timing of your spark.

IW

I knew that much but how do I know if it is correct or incorrect, what are some symptoms I would see if my engine timing wasn't correct. And from there how do I put it back into correct time. Thanks i appreciate the feedback

Nick0 · « **Reply #5 on:** January 29, 2013, 07:56:36 am »

Ordered headers~30$ I'm planning on running open headers on my finished project. Headers were in pretty rough shape. Was able to strip them down to bare metal on bench grinder with wire brush wheel. Cleaned up the clamps the same way then polished the clamps on the buffing wheel. Bought some VHT high heat header pant~9$, 30' of DEI tan header wrap~27$, and a set of 10 stainless steel zip ties~7$. A few coats of paint on the headers wrapped them using 7.5' of wrap on each pipe secured wrap with steel ties. I am very pleased with the result. Pics of Pipes before, and after. total cost of exhaust~73$

Nick0 · « **Reply #6 on:** January 29, 2013, 03:19:40 pm »

clamp after rust removal and polishing

header wrapped

Nick0 · « **Reply #7 on:** January 29, 2013, 03:20:24 pm »

header installed

Nick0 · « **Reply #8 on:** January 29, 2013, 03:38:59 pm »

Pulled the carbs last weekend went through, cleaned bodies, and polished caps and bowls, lubed slides and chokes. I cleaned partially clogged jets with some cut pieces of old leftover guitar strings I had (different strings different diameter) worked pretty well basically a good stiff piece of wire good for scraping varnish out of jet passageways. I was very pleased with the result my carbs no longer leaked, looked 10x better and ran better too.

Nick0 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 29, 2013, 04:16:48 pm »

ordered a set 4 pods~18$. Also ordered #85 main jets~30$ to compensate for freer-flowing filters and exhaust. Bought throttle cables~30$, left side hand controls/clutch perch~17$. Fitted a new drive chain~22$ and new rear brake shoes~13$.

Nick0 · « **Reply #10 on:** January 31, 2013, 08:04:42 pm »

parts delivered today

fork boots/gaiters- $29

fork seals- $12

and a box of used parts sent from forum member "Steam Powered Man"- 80$ , big thanks for all the parts Bob
-2 swingarm pieces and one tensioner bolt
-front caliper with spray guard
-caliper mounting arm, brackets, bolts
-upper and lower hoses with 3 banjo bolts
-master cylinder
-front brake switch
-headlight bucket, bulb and trim ring
-solenoid
-new relay

still need to pick up the big box from the post office. I plan to install everything when i have time this weekend and hope to take her out for her first ride in about 28 years. Ride will be on private road of course because i still have a lot of things to work out before she's road ready, But a big step regardless.

iron_worker · « **Reply #11 on:** February 01, 2013, 01:28:22 pm »

You either need a timing light (more or less a strobe light that is triggered by sensing current in the spark plug wires). You aim it at the timing plate while the bike is idling and it will show you if the timing marks are lining up correctly with the "F" (Fire) mark.

That or you can use the static method. Which basically tests to see that the points open (current cannot pass ... test light goes off) as the timing marks are lined up with the "F". You do this procedure while the bike is not running.

IW

Nick0 · « **Reply #12 on:** February 03, 2013, 08:51:35 am »

Quote from: iron_worker on February 01, 2013, 01:28:22 pm

You either need a timing light (more or less a strobe light that is triggered by sensing current in the spark plug wires). You aim it at the timing plate while the bike is idling and it will show you if the timing marks are lining up correctly with the "F" (Fire) mark.

That or you can use the static method. Which basically tests to see that the points open (current cannot pass ... test light goes off) as the timing marks are lined up with the "F". You do this procedure while the bike is not running.

IW

Thanks for explaining that i think ill try to dial in the timing with the static method this afternoon.

Nick0 · « **Reply #13 on:** February 03, 2013, 10:03:20 pm »

started sandblasting this weekend worked on the tank some, cleaned up the fork ears (stock fork ears). Installed the fork gaiters, front brake, and new headlight. picked up a battery and took her for a ride, bike ran very well, pulled hard but seemed to have a little less top end then i expected. Im thinking the new jets will fix this but other than that no mechanical problems. It still needs a lot of electrical work and a lot of cosmetic paint/polishing but being able to ride it was motivating. I also need new tires and tubes as the tires on there now are old and cracking. my pod filters should be delivered tomorrow. you might notice in the pictures that only the far right header is cleaned/painted/wrapped, this is just because i haven't had time to do the rest.

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #14 on:** February 04, 2013, 12:29:52 am »

Thats going to be hard to tune with open headers, it will also reduce the life of the valves....

Nick0 · « **Reply #15 on:** February 04, 2013, 07:55:20 pm »

Quote from: Retro Rocket on February 04, 2013, 12:29:52 am

Thats going to be hard to tune with open headers, it will also reduce the life of the valves....

hhmmm.... yes i have heard this from a few people $:-\$ , i guess if it becomes problematic ill swap them out for something else but i was hoping to be able to run open headers, for now i will just have to wait untill i can do some more serious test riding/ tuning to see how this all pans out. thanks for the feedback.

Nick0 · « **Reply #16 on:** February 04, 2013, 08:58:05 pm »

my pods and jets arrived today. The pods look like they are going to have to be modified a bit as they are slightly too large to clear the frame. ordered new tires- $120, throttle housing~$25, throttle tube~9$, grips~10$, front turn signal lens~5$

RickB · « **Reply #17 on:** February 06, 2013, 06:48:13 pm »

Can't wait to see where you take this, thanks for the updates so far.

Nick0 · « **Reply #18 on:** February 11, 2013, 02:29:27 am »

Haven't had much time for updates recently but more to come throughout the week. Picture shows the bike with fender and front turn signals reinstalled. Also new kenda crusier 90/90-18 tire with kenda tube and new rimstrip. Installed the tire myself. Found after pulling the old tire off that the PO had patched the tube twice and used a rimstrip for a much larger rim that was just bunched up and folded under the tube, a very "creative" job on his part. Working out alot of electrical problems at the moment. Adjusted the fuel screws and the bike is much more responsive and running strong with new jets and air filters.

Nick0 · « **Reply #19 on:** February 11, 2013, 04:48:17 am »

Installed new hturn signal lense, hand controls, throttle tube, and grips. Still waiting on my brake lever and new rear tire to be delivered. But things are moving along, really need that ignition points cover.

Nick0 · « **Reply #20 on:** February 11, 2013, 08:22:36 pm »

^pictures above^

Dmitrii · « **Reply #21 on:** March 13, 2013, 11:53:53 am »

what did u use to polish your clamps and carb caps/bowls?
thanks!

Nick0 · « **Reply #22 on:** March 19, 2013, 05:11:27 am »

Quote from: Dmitrii on March 13, 2013, 11:53:53 am

what did u use to polish your clamps and carb caps/bowls?
thanks!

I used a canvas polishing wheel on a bench grinder with the red/brownish type polishing compound.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Nick0 · « **Reply #23 on:** April 02, 2013, 08:09:30 pm »

Got my points cover thanks to forum member thedangsallhere.

Nick0 · « **Reply #24 on:** April 02, 2013, 08:24:08 pm »

Installed the new rear tire, IRC NR55, with new rimstrip and new tube. I plan to eventually power coat my rims black, polish and clear-coat my hub, and tie it all back together with some stainless steel spokes.

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Author Topic: 1972 cb350f cafe build (Read 23292 times)