Topic: cartridge fork emulators and progressive springs?

[RichDesmond]

ok then... does anyone know if these $80 fork springs sold by sonic springs are per set, or per spring?

$80 per set.

[jason41987]

then im putting in order in for these springs, a set of mikes emulators, some new seals, oil, and whatever other parts i think i might need to rebuild these forks... also, im going with the .90kg/mm springs, stock ones are WAY too light for my size, and the gear ill be carrying often enough

[jason41987]

well.. I got the springs and they were too short.. took the old springs out and measured them at 19 inches.. which is roughly 485mm.... this seems very long, especially for a CB550 fork... im kind of confused as to whats wrong here why these fork springs I received were so short.. and for that matter who actually makes a fork spring long enough?.... the springs I pulled out were progressively wound springs

[MCRider]

well.. I got the springs and they were too short.. took the old springs out and measured them at 19 inches.. which is roughly 485mm.... this seems very long, especially for a CB550 fork... im kind of confused as to whats wrong here why these fork springs I received were so short.. and for that matter who actually makes a fork spring long enough?.... the springs I pulled out were progressively wound springs

Its not uncommon for you to have to cut some spacers from PVC pipe as spring manufactureres don't make springs exactly the right length for many older models.

[RichDesmond]

MCRider is exactly right, aftermarket springs, at least the straight rate ones, are typically shorter than the OEM springs on older bikes. That's for a few reasons, both technical and business.

It's important to realize that having springs the same length as OEM is actually a bad idea. That's because you do NOT want the new total spring/spacer length to be the same as stock. The stock setups use very soft springs and a lot of preload. With proper rate you need less preload so that total length needs to be shorter. If the new springs were the same length as stock a lot of people would just plop them in with the stock spacer and end up with too much preload and a harsh ride. In setups with no spacer it would be even worse, as there would be no way to adjust the length to the required, shorter, value.

The fact that the new total length should be different than the OEM value means it's important to follow the instructions on determining the proper spacer length. If you have any questions please contact us.

[becken]

http://www.fatbaq.com/mainpage.phtml?topic=sag

[jason41987]

hmm... so that's why the springs came with a piece of PVC pipe... I just cut the piece of PVC to length and the 4 inch shorter spring is good to use?

[MCRider]

hmm... so that's why the springs came with a piece of PVC pipe... I just cut the piece of PVC to length and the 4 inch shorter spring is good to use?

Yup. No instructions with the springs?

[matt mattison]

The springs are shorter to because of the emulators. Like stated before, u need the spacers.

[RichDesmond]

hmm... so that's why the springs came with a piece of PVC pipe... I just cut the piece of PVC to length and the 4 inch shorter spring is good to use?

Yup. No instructions with the springs?

We include instructions.

[RichDesmond]

hmm... so that's why the springs came with a piece of PVC pipe... I just cut the piece of PVC to length and the 4 inch shorter spring is good to use?

When you say "cut...to length" do you mean cut so that the total spring/spacer length is the same as stock, or cut according to the instructions.?

[Roach Carver]

Marked.

[matt mattison]

Their are more than one thread on this already . Try the search function . Lots of answers there .

[jason41987]

i found the instructions stuffed in the bottom... hmm, i wont be able to measure the spacers yet though. still waiting for the emulators to arrive first

[MCRider]

i found the instructions stuffed in the bottom... hmm, i wont be able to measure the spacers yet though. still waiting for the emulators to arrive first

Or would it be the top, had you opened the other end?      JK

At least you've got what you need now, sounds like. After you get the emulators.

[jason41987]

yeah.. unfortunately though i figured i could get the oil locally, and now i dont think anyone around here sells it so im probably going to have to order this online too.. going to go with 15w since i hear 20w causes stacking over a series of bumps, and 10w would be too light for the heavier duty suspension im going for... i cant wait till this frame-up restoration is complete.... this bike will handle and ride even better than brand new with the fully rebuild and updated front suspension, shocks, new tires, and all new bearings/bushings

[MCRider]

yeah.. unfortunately though i figured i could get the oil locally, and now i dont think anyone around here sells it so im probably going to have to order this online too.. going to go with 15w since i hear 20w causes stacking over a series of bumps, and 10w would be too light for the heavier duty suspension im going for... i cant wait till this frame-up restoration is complete.... this bike will handle and ride even better than brand new with the fully rebuild and updated front suspension, shocks, new tires, and all new bearings/bushings

The manual(s) alternate between using 10w-30 and ATF (automatic transmission fluid) which has a visc of about 8. I like ATF. You can use branded specific fork oil if you like, but its not necessary. Probably need to if you're ging for a 15.

[shinyribs]

FWIW I used to run ATF in my forks,too. The area I live in has some pretty rough roads and I ride alot of mountain back roads,which makes it even worse. With the rough terrain in my neck of the woods the ATF in the forks got beat to death pretty quick.I was changing it every other oil change and it just looked awful.Very dark and it just ran out like water almost.Very thin. Actual fork oil holds up much better for my application.Once a year now instead of 2 or 3 times. YMMV.