Topic: A Bike Is Born....750/1000cc

[bear]

Frank,
    Why would you convert an 1100F rod into a 900F rod via bushings? Do you have some aftermarket 1100F rods? Are the 1100F rod bolts stronger than the 900F ones? I don't know that answer ... anyone?
     Am I the only one sleeping after midnight here? 

                                                          Jon Weeks

The 1100f rods are a stronger unit Jon.
Conrods where a weak point for us when we first stated putting these motors together.
The 1100f rods solved that problem.
It would be debatable wether the auto would have the same problem but as you would know, a broken rod in a comp motor is a very ugly thing.
Talking to Rex Wolfenden. he has had a couple of his motors break the 1100f rods.
But he also said that both motors had run up a lot of race hours and he believes it was more of a fatigue problem.
As far as I know Rex now runs Carrillo's in all his sohc motors.
Having said all that, we have not had a conrod failure since we have been using the 1100f rods.
But we will be using Falicon rods with the A motor we are rebuilding now.
(Don't tell Mike)

Cheers,
Brian

[Bill/BentON Racing]

Ordering my pistons,rings,pins and clips tomorrow!!! Bill

[bear]

Ordering my pistons,rings,pins and clips tomorrow!!! Bill

It's all happening!

Cheers,
Brian

[Bill/BentON Racing]

Thanks for the help. Bill

[dragracer]

Frank,
    Why would you convert an 1100F rod into a 900F rod via bushings? Do you have some aftermarket 1100F rods? Are the 1100F rod bolts stronger than the 900F ones? I don't know that answer ... anyone?
     Am I the only one sleeping after midnight here? 

                                                          Jon Weeks

Hey Jon,

I was told by a reliable source that the 1100F rods were somewhat stronger than the 900F rods. Unfortunately they take larger wrist pins. The only reason i'm not following Bills lead on the pistons is i just got a decent deal on a set of 73mm high compression SOHC pistons. I really don't want to spend a lot cash on this type project unless i have too- as you know i've got a few other bikes to maintain and it gets costly sometimes. I was just thinking of my options to get the best rod and greater ratio for the money. Pockets are too shallow for Carillos right now but i do plan to pursue a lead on a used set locally. I may end of selling the 73mm pistons in the end and doing what Bill plans with the RC45 pistons.

Bill is moving ahead with doing, i'm just in the thinking and data gathering stage.

I do appreciate you asking those type questions. Keep me on track please!! Bill has a goal with an exact target, but i only want to go a little quicker for my own personal milestone without adding nitrous. When i first built the bike, i intended to spray it and added all necessary brackets for the bottle and the solenoids. I bought a brand new NOS kit also. I never put spray on the bike because once i got it sorted out, it was such a good and consistent bracket bike, i hated to tear it up trying to set an unrealistic ET. Now if i can get the stroker crank in the bike, lower my personal best ET and it stays together for a season, I do intend to put a small shot of nitrous on the bike with a conservative tuneup and hope it doesn't scatter parts all over the place.

Jon, have you done any research on longer cylinder studs for the strokers???

[dragracer]

Bill,

Per our conversation last week about the mono shock arm we put on an F model, check out the link below from the project section. Unfortunately none of the pictures show much detail about the bracketry when the motor was off the frame. We did run into one problem after the bike was completed and on the road. We connected the pivot link to the center stand brackets just behind/below the rear of the engine. We discovered that the tubing was peeling apart due to the thin wall so we had to weld a chromemoly tubing to it to reinforce the lower pivot attachment. Honda only put that tubing there to support the static weight of the bike with the wheel off the ground, not for it to be stressed against a dynamic load of bike and passengers.

If you want to pursue the extended monoshock swingarm set up it will allow you to better tune the suspension versus struts or the limited adjustments of the stock shocks. Trust me, if this bike runs like we both feel it will launching at the higher rpm's, you will want something to give versus yanking that front wheel off the ground. I've seen Chads bike pick the front wheel up with his smaller motor so i know you'll be really checking the weather forecast. Please also give some consideration to maybe a slight rake of the steering head. Also stiffenning up the front forks and lowering them internally. i can help you with that.

[dragracer]

Damn, i forgot the link. Here ya go.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=62493.0

Will get some pics of the bracing etc.... when i get over to my friends house. We used a Katana arm i got off Ebay. We didn't have the ability to weld aluminum so we elected to use the steel Kat arm.

[jweeks]

Frank,
     With the +6mm stroke, I added a 3mm cylinder block spacer. New stock length studs had enough threads that everything fit and didn't come apart with about 50 passes. Did a retorque after the first day. It was on the dyno for a couple of pulls. Didn't push it over 10.5k rpms.
     ARP may have longer studs available if/when it becomes necessary.

Bill,
     Remember if you're using the F head to sleeve the two open cylinder stud holes to prevent oil leakage. It's not a direct bolt on unless you want a smoke bomb....

                                                          Jon Weeks

                                                       

[Bill/BentON Racing]

Jon, thanks for the reminder.....find any rods? Bill

[dragracer]

Yeah, don't do what i did-lol.

Frank,
     With the +6mm stroke, I added a 3mm cylinder block spacer. New stock length studs had enough threads that everything fit and didn't come apart with about 50 passes. Did a retorque after the first day. It was on the dyno for a couple of pulls. Didn't push it over 10.5k rpms.
     ARP may have longer studs available if/when it becomes necessary.

Bill,
     Remember if you're using the F head to sleeve the two open cylinder stud holes to prevent oil leakage. It's not a direct bolt on unless you want a smoke bomb....

                                                          Jon Weeks

                                                       

[750cafe]

If it hasn't been noted before, I am not going through all pages of this thread to find out,
those Tracey fuel tanks are fiberglass and the methanol in today's garbage fuel will eat through it.
You MUST line/coat the inside of those tanks. Fair warning.   

Eric

[Bill/BentON Racing]

Thanks, you confirmed my suspicions! Another thing to add to list Bill

[Jim F]

Unless Bill you want to come over to Monroe Ga to buy Ethanol free gas
there is still some around
When I gas up my bikes I make a trip out there

Jim

[Bill/BentON Racing]

Jim, K. Probably coat it anyway with the race fuel going in, maybe alum/steel tank underneath the real one. Bill

[Sam Green Racing]

That would be a better idea Billy.

Sam.

[MRieck]

I certainly agree.

[Bill/BentON Racing]

The "Gods"  have spoken,lightwt metal of some sort tank! Bill

[dragracer]

Jim, K. Probably coat it anyway with the race fuel going in, maybe alum/steel tank underneath the real one. Bill

 APE or any of the racing vendors here can provide you with a bolt on fuel cell. The other option is to simply buy a weld in fuel cell for the frame. You would cut out a section of the original back bone and weld the fuel cell in its place. Most are made of chromemoly so you would have a slight weight saving. Draw back is the in frame cells don't hold much fuel so you'd have to add between rounds to be on the safe side.

[Sam Green Racing]

The "Gods"  have spoken,lightwt metal of some sort tank! Bill

Something nice and light in alloy, if you can find a good welder.

[Bill/BentON Racing]

I think I know one! Waiting on return call about other welding...been studying what to do for elec start.
So much going on!!!!! Bill
Ordered pistons,rings XR250R ,.025 over....duh,forgot the year on purpose! PM me.also pins 17mm,and clips!!
Need rods still! Frank,could duplicate for you,$388.67,cost plus 10%,regularly,$528.01,still not bad for what it is and will do!! ...plus tax! Bill

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Elec start? Didn't Honda use one on your engine? If weight's an issue go to the porta potty then push the button! What's your thoughts here?

[Bill/BentON Racing]

Jerry 900F crank has the ends opposite to SOHC,you have to remove the large taper on dyno side and machine for 750 ignition.Then you need that on other side to use stock elec starter.Can be done,looks like to me,where Jim comes in! Bill

[Bill/BentON Racing]

Close!....We can fix that!

another

more like what you want on this side!

Close again!

These ok.More later,Bill

[bear]

Jim, K. Probably coat it anyway with the race fuel going in, maybe alum/steel tank underneath the real one. Bill

Ever considered using methanol.

Cheers,
Brian

[dragracer]

I think I know one! Waiting on return call about other welding...been studying what to do for elec start.
So much going on!!!!! Bill
Ordered pistons,rings XR250R ,.025 over....duh,forgot the year on purpose! PM me.also pins 17mm,and clips!!
Need rods still! Frank,could duplicate for you,$388.67,cost plus 10%,regularly,$528.01,still not bad for what it is and will do!! ...plus tax! Bill

Bill,

Still debating on the 73mm SOHC pistons for this build. Not quire ready to get started but will let you know when i get closer to beginning. Still got a few Kaw motors to get ready and also my F model motor to rebuild. Season about here and i am not close to being finished.