Let's not forget that the snout on the 900f crank must be machined off. That's where the advancer/points plate is going. Take a stock SOHC 750 crank and the 900f crank to your local machine shop. Have him/her machine the end of the 900f crank to match the slight recess of the 750 timing end. The 900f crank end is fairly soft and easy to machine. The plate "pin" hole can be located from the casting centerline. The machinist will understand. A fairly easy turning job.
Remember that the crank determines the seals. Use the 900f seals with the 900f crank. Otherwise you'll leak around the machined end of the 900f crank.
Clearancing is fairly easy as only a little material is removed from the case to clear the throws. The 900f crank is fairly heavy and can be lightened. The lightening can replace the case clearancing in some areas.
The 1100F crowd has their own internet forums. Sometimes the rods/cranks can come up there in the classified.
Somebody should make up an adapter to the splined end of the 900f crank which will allow kick/electric starting in our cases. I haven't the time yet to design that one up, but it can be fairly easily done. Otherwise use a splined sleeve around the crank with a 1 1/8" nut welded to the end of it with a bolt going through the center of it to hold it on. Your normal external starter will start it just fine.
Yes, after doing all that work, everything will spin just fine in the cases. Depending on the rods used, you'll have 2 to 3 mm clearance with the bottom of the case. Yes, it can be stroked more. Previously done by Superbike Mike Keyte as stated on the Honda Dragbikes section of facebook. "We had a similar project in the late 80's. 40mm intake valves with 8mm stroker and 78mm pistons 1357cc. Made 156hp." There's your biggest CB750 based motor... I'm thinking that something a little smaller would last a lot longer...
