Topic: ignition timing

[nascar7613]

Greetings. I am working on a CB550 with a production date of 8/74, so I am assuming it is a 1975 model.  I am trying to time the ignition points, but I cant get either set to begin opening at the f mark. I am using the instructions per the manual, which are not very clear. The manual says to disconnect the blue wire from the 1.4 set, then connect the test light at that point with the key on. It doesnt specify to connect the test light to the blue wire or the post on the points where the blue wire was. The diagram isnt very clear, but it does show the other end of the test light going to ground. When I turn the key on, the blue wire is hot all the time, so I connected the test light to the post on the points and the other end of the test light to ground. I could not get any reading with the light connected that way, so I connected the test light to the battery+ and the other end to the post on the points, and when the points start to open, the light lights up. The problem is that the points are begining to open about halfway between the f mark and the first advance mark, and there is not enough adjustment on the plate to line it up with the f mark. I have removed the advancer and it is working as it shoud.  I really dont know what the problem is and was hoping that someone here would know. Thank you.

[Deltarider]

The idea is that you verify correct points gap first.
The silly thing is that many start adjusting the timing plates where they could have limited their effort to just adjusting the points (and so restore the correct timing).

Anyway, when started from scratch this is the correct, somewhat academic, procedure.
Correct procedure is to check (cq adjust) the breakers point gap first.

Correct procedure (static)
Step 1: Adjust breaker point gap 1+4 at maximum opening* to 0,3 - 0,4 mm,
Step 2: Adjust breaker point gap 2+3 at maximum opening* to 0,3 - 0,4 mm,

Step 3: Set timing 1+4 by moving backplate
Step 4: Set timing 2+3 by moving secundary backplate 2+3
Note  :  Doublecheck all steps.

* Find maximum opening by rotating crank clockwise.

If you've done it correctly, in future you can adjust the timing by just setting the contactbreakers gap and you can leave the platescrews untouched. That's how all mechanics do it.

[DJ_AX]

Hi and welcome to the forum.

Have you set points before? It can seem very tricky if it's your first time.
It's really just a lot of "loosen, tweak, tighten, check, repeat"
After a while you get a feel for it and can do it pretty quickly.

I always just clip one lead of the light the post, and the other to the brake pedal for ground. You shouldn't have to disconnect anything.

It sounds like the points plate may have been replaced at one point with the "made in china" versions. They can be a PITA.
Seems the plates don't only simply turn (like they're supposed to) but will also move side to side... and it only takes a couple thousandths of an inch to mess with your setting.
Often times you can finagle it and get it to work with a little pressure in the right direction.
On one it was so bad that I had to file the screw slot holds to make it work.

OR .. .the little shaft with the lobe that turns in the middle can sometimes be bent. They're not very sturdy. But they can be straightened.

Cheers.

[nascar7613]

I rechecked the point gaps while the fibre was sitting on the widest part of the lobe. If I turn the plate all the way to the right, it almost gets to the f mark, but still a little to the right of it. Should I have to turn the plate that far to the right and still be a little off, is that normal or a bit unusual?

[nascar7613]

I have found that the contacts for point set for 2.3 were not lining up exactly right, and when I loosened the screw to take them off, I could rock it slightly with the pin in the little hole, so I took them off and bent the points until the contacts lined up perfectly. when I reinstalled them they didnt rock at all and I can line that set up with the f mark. The point set 1.4 is barely off, yet I still have to have the point plate set as far as it wiil go to the right for 1.4 and as far as it go to the left for 3.2. I wonder if these points could be aftermarket and not quite perfect. The only markings I could find on the points was japan and a symbol that looks like a three blade propeller, no brand name.

[dave500]

daichi points,throw it all away and get an electronic unit.

[nascar7613]

I got the timing marks very close to the f marks after gapping the points and turning the engine a few times and readjusting the points each time. Took the bike for a ride and the difference was amazing. It pulls up to redline without a problem and runs smooth. The only issue is that it is sluggish right at the bottom on takeoff but not horrible. Thank you delta rider and dj ax for your input, it was very helpful. I will advise the owner of the bike of dave500s recommendation to go electronic. Thank all of you guys very much. One more question. Where is a good place to buy parts for these bikes. Again, thank you.

[bjbuchanan]

You have discovered the pitfalls of cheap points for these bikes. You can use points just fine if yoi get TEC or similar good name stuff
.