Topic: keyster jet quality

[dave500]

these are both keyster slow jets from the same set of overhauled carbs,great quality control,look at the left ones air holes closely.

[Retro Rocket]

Gday Dave, the one on the left looks like the tube has been twisted, distorting the holes....

[dave500]

yeah thats how it looks,like it got grabbed in the machineing?we put genuines in christos bike today and a sync,goes slightly better at that just off idle cruise area now,i dont like his mac exhaust,the baffle looks like some piggy backed offset thing directing the pressure backwards,might have to look into some perforated tube?

[brewsky]

The stock Mac baffle is super restrictive. They offer a straight thru "performance" baffle for about $50 or so.

I took a drill and dremal to mine and am satisfied with the result.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=106651.0

[bwaller]

Dave they often leave a lot to be desired. I've had some kits with good looking parts but no markings.

[toytuff]

I had bought a set for the CBX. When I talked with Mike Nixon he told me to return them. He would not use them in the rebuilding of the carburetors or on anything else for that matter.

tt

[dave500]

yeah especially on a cbx,you dont want to go through that twice,ive had #100 keyster mains that wouldnt pass a new 1mm drill shank,it went through the kiehin 100 like it was a precision bushing,i guess they can go either way,thats why we swapped christos slows for genuines,no markings bwaller?thats handy. 

[Christo]

I have to get the bloody thing out before we can start doing anything to it. Snug fit that's for sure. Perhaps we can start by drilling the ends off the internal tubes and drill perforated holes in the tube. Do it in stages and test ride each time.

Re the slug area at low revs, i will slightly adjust the air screw again this morning and see the difference. Not much more room to move on those screws. So it's looking like it probably is this baffle.

[brewsky]

I have to get the bloody thing out before we can start doing anything to it. Snug fit that's for sure. Perhaps we can start by drilling the ends off the internal tubes and drill perforated holes in the tube. Do it in stages and test ride each time.

Re the slug area at low revs, i will slightly adjust the air screw again this morning and see the difference. Not much more room to move on those screws. So it's looking like it probably is this baffle.

An 8" bolt with vise grips on the threaded end makes the perfect slide hammer type removal tool for the baffle.
Check the above linked thread for opening up the baffle.