Author Topic: 1974 cb550; Fixin' this baby up! (Read 29454 times)

dmonday · « **Reply #25 on:** March 27, 2013, 07:10:48 AM »

Quote from: IndyFour on March 26, 2013, 03:13:52 PM

If they feel "notchy" in the center or you feel a detent as you turn past center, then the steering head bearings are probably shot. Most people replace with tapered bearings and it really improves the feel of the bike. I did mine just as a precaution a couple of years ago and I was shocked at how much better the front felt afterwards. Much more stable.

I'll look into that. Pretty easy swap I take it?

IndyFour · « **Reply #26 on:** March 27, 2013, 11:39:02 AM »

Yes, pretty easy. Been a while since I did it, but as I recall it involves taking the fork tubes off and disassembling the upper/lower triple. Alot of people seem to have a hard time getting the old races off and the new ones on.....but mine went on/off with no trouble at all. You can get bike specific kits (All Balls brand). You can do it in an evening.

dmonday · « **Reply #27 on:** March 27, 2013, 02:16:21 PM »

Quote from: IndyFour on March 27, 2013, 11:39:02 AM

Yes, pretty easy. Been a while since I did it, but as I recall it involves taking the fork tubes off and disassembling the upper/lower triple. Alot of people seem to have a hard time getting the old races off and the new ones on.....but mine went on/off with no trouble at all. You can get bike specific kits (All Balls brand). You can do it in an evening.

Good info, thank you. It isn't "notchy" when it's just sitting but just seems like it is resistant to turn when riding, but I plan on changing them anyway.

SF · « **Reply #28 on:** March 27, 2013, 06:42:47 PM »

use a piece of abs for the neck and a bearing puller for the stem

dmonday · « **Reply #29 on:** April 01, 2013, 07:44:36 AM »

Little update, the chain was loose so I tightened it. While doing that I realized the rear tire was not "square" with the front by looking at the chain line. So after tightening correctly the bike feels much better turning. The triple clamp is slightly torqued to one side, so I'll loosen the clamps and straighten it up. Hopefully that fixes what's left of the weird turning on the bike.

becken · « **Reply #30 on:** April 02, 2013, 07:23:20 AM »

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=7401.msg108852#msg108852

dmonday · « **Reply #31 on:** April 02, 2013, 11:11:16 AM »

Quote from: becken on April 02, 2013, 07:23:20 AM

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=7401.msg108852#msg108852

Great info becken, thank you for posting!

dmonday · « **Reply #32 on:** April 05, 2013, 02:45:22 PM »

Received my new tires (IRC GS-11's) yesterday. Can't wait to put them on! I also found that the cap on the lower front fork (goes around the axle) on one side is reversed. Looks like I'll start there on trying to fix the goofy feeling steering. Can't wait to ride this thing. I have a BUNCH of parts waiting to be put on.

dmonday · « **Reply #33 on:** April 06, 2013, 01:35:09 PM »

So....my emgo ignition switch just melted the wiring on it....?

I made a fuse box to replace the factory one that was screwed up. The factory one did not have a fuse for the head light in it, so I expected to see a bright headlight after replacing it. Instead if was very dim and all of a sudden a puff of smoke came out from under the gas tank. Ended up being the ignition switch wiring. Why would I have no problem with it until I put a fuse in for the tail light? Doesn't make since to me. Irritated.

IndyFour · « **Reply #34 on:** April 06, 2013, 03:51:53 PM »

Ah that sucks.

Did the headlight work before you replaced the fuse block? Can you tell if it was the new block or the ignition switch at fault?

If it makes you feel any better, these Emgo replacement switches don't have a very good reputation. It's pretty common apparently for them to get fried as the contacts and wires are not as heavy duty as the originals. I had one on my bike for a while as my original was getting a bit fussy (key would get stuck, etc.). I ended up taking it apart and cleaning/lubing it and it is good as new now.....so the Emgo came back off and went on the shelf.

I think I still have it if you want it....another freebie for the taking.

Once you figure out what shorted out, you might consider putting a relay on your headlight. It takes the load of the light off your original wiring and switches and makes a much brighter light.

Good luck.

dmonday · « **Reply #35 on:** April 06, 2013, 07:46:30 PM »

The headlight didn't work before I replaced the fuse block (it had the fuse in it but the light was cracked). I actually took the wire of the emgo switch and rewired it. Put it back on the bike and it works. Here's the part I don't understand: If I plug in the fuse for the tail light (5a) it immediately pops the 15a main fuse. If I keep the taillight fuse unplugged everything seems fine. What makes even less sense is that I wired the new fuse block up exactly like the original one but the tail lamp comes on if the 7a headlight fuse is plugged in, but as soon as I unplug the headlight fuse the taillight goes out (remember this is without the 5a taillight fuse plugged in at all!). My headlight does not turn on when I turn the ignition switch either. Does it only turn on after the bike is running? I'm scared to try starting the bike now to see.

I'm using wiring schematics from a Haynes manual btw.

Remember when I said the original fuse block was sketchy? They had the main 15a fuse wrapped in foil...that tells me there is a short somewhere, correct? I just don't understand what caused the original wiring on the emgo switch to melt instead of blowing the fuse like it just did. Doesn't make any sense to me.

I did do the H4 conversion if that info helps.

IndyFour · « **Reply #36 on:** April 07, 2013, 05:44:26 AM »

Well I think you're going about it right by tracing wires using the diagram. Sounds like the PO did some "alterations" somewhere. My guess is that there was a short somewhere at one time, so they bypassed the short and put more than one thing on the same circuit. The first place I would look is in the headlight bucket for evidence. Anything other than the original bullet connectors would make me suspect something is up.

On the '74, The first click of the key is ignition and tail light....the headlight is also on as long as the right control headlight switch is on. The second click of the key is "park"....only the tail light comes on and the key c can come back out, leaving the tail light lit.

This all kind of sounds like another '74 550 I bought a few years back....bought it for the pipes and then re-sold the bike. Much the same scenario....starter button was broken off and it had lots of electrical quirks. Worse yet....the fuse box had melted and the PO just stripped the wires to the fuse box and twisted them together...no fuses! yikes. Luckily a new fuse block and some tidying up solved the issues. I'm sure yours will be the same way. The wiring on these isn't rocket science....you just have to be patient and trace all your paths. Takes a little time is all.

dmonday · « **Reply #37 on:** April 07, 2013, 02:46:19 PM »

When I plug the fuse in for the tail light, the tail light is MUCH more dim for the 2 seconds it takes for the circuit breaker to kick off. The breaker is awesome btw. When the tail light fuse is not in the tail light is bright and it will not kick the circuit breaker. I may lose my mind.

dmonday · « **Reply #38 on:** April 15, 2013, 07:00:42 AM »

Found the short. The previous owner had plugged the brown wire that terminates inside the headlight bucket into the black power feed wire. Basically sending electricity the wrong way through the wiring. Good thing is it doesn't throw the circuit breaker anymore, bad thing is we have to figure out why it's not getting power the way it is supposed to (headlight and taillight are not recieving power). Once we figure out that, I will be thrilled. Big thanks to my dad's friend Steve for helping solve that problem!

I also fixed the wonky steering, turns out the p.o. had put one of the fork caps that hold the axle on backwards. I also put my new front tire on and the steering/overall feel of the bike is MUCH better.

IndyFour · « **Reply #39 on:** April 15, 2013, 10:23:10 AM »

When you get it going, you should ride it over to Vintage Night at the Steer Inn sometime (10th and Emerson first Thursday of each month). Always lots of old bikes to drool over and nice people to talk to.

Also, Rockers Reunion is coming up!
www.rockersreunionindy.com

dmonday · « **Reply #40 on:** April 18, 2013, 01:44:06 PM »

Quote from: IndyFour on April 15, 2013, 10:23:10 AM

When you get it going, you should ride it over to Vintage Night at the Steer Inn sometime (10th and Emerson first Thursday of each month). Always lots of old bikes to drool over and nice people to talk to.

Also, Rockers Reunion is coming up!
www.rockersreunionindy.com

Looks like a lot of fun! Hopefully we'll be down there (we have quite a few vintage bikes in the family).

dmonday · « **Reply #41 on:** April 22, 2013, 01:09:28 PM »

Update:
It wasn't getting power to the headlight and tail light b/c the turn signals were plugged into the wrong plugs inside the bucket...weird, but that fixed it. Then the bike didn't have the power to keep the HID headlight lit. I unplugged all the male connectors in the bucket and cleaned them along with the main battery ground and the grounds on the headlight bucket "ears"...fixed it!! Next will be rebuilding the master cylinder, changing the rear tire, sprockets and chain. The bike was also bogging down really bad, if you rev it up a bit to clear it out it was better but falls on it's face about mid revs then it gets going again. I suspect I need new plugs, still need to sync carbs and haven't looked at points/timing at all. Baby steps right?

dmonday · « **Reply #42 on:** May 02, 2013, 08:08:05 AM »

Took it out on the road last night.

IndyFour · « **Reply #43 on:** May 02, 2013, 08:22:48 AM »

Lookin' good! I really love the stock pipes on these bikes. I had a set for a while until they just got too rusted out...had to find something else that didn't rattle and leak so much.

Happy riding! BTW, Vintage meet tonight at the Steer Inn restaurant near 10th and Emerson. I'll bet there will be a big crowd since the weather is nice. You ought to take that beauty over there and show it off. I'm heading out of town today so will have to miss it, though.

dmonday · « **Reply #44 on:** May 02, 2013, 09:21:54 AM »

Quote from: IndyFour on May 02, 2013, 08:22:48 AM

Lookin' good! I really love the stock pipes on these bikes. I had a set for a while until they just got too rusted out...had to find something else that didn't rattle and leak so much.

Happy riding! BTW, Vintage meet tonight at the Steer Inn restaurant near 10th and Emerson. I'll bet there will be a big crowd since the weather is nice. You ought to take that beauty over there and show it off. I'm heading out of town today so will have to miss it, though.

We're actually working on it tonight. Doing timing, mastercylinder rebuild and new spark plugs. Carbs need synced too. I hope after all that it fixes the lack of power. It just doesn't feel "right" yet. I have a battery drain somewhere too....I think the culprit will be the regulator/rectifier.

spdygnzlz · « **Reply #45 on:** May 02, 2013, 10:04:13 AM »

I have a '74 550 in the same color! Well, for now at least, the color will be changing soon. Cool to see these bikes being brought back, there's just nothing like them currently being made. I love the simplicity of them. My bike is being built up as a hybrid 650/550 so let me know if there are any parts you need. I have lots of stuff I took off of the 550 and bunch of gaskets/seals/o-rings etc that I'm not going to be using. After looking at what was left of the wiring harness when I got the bike, I decided to replace the whole thing so that'll be an adventure in itself.

Your bike is looking great!

lone*X · « **Reply #46 on:** May 02, 2013, 10:51:50 AM »

Before you fill and bleed the rebuilt master cylinder be sure to read this service bulletin from HONDA. This will keep it from doing that nasty seeping at the lever. So simple, yet so few are aware of the proper way to bleed the master cylinder. Its in reply #18.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=102388.0

dmonday · « **Reply #47 on:** May 02, 2013, 01:12:11 PM »

Quote from: spdygnzlz on May 02, 2013, 10:04:13 AM

I have a '74 550 in the same color! Well, for now at least, the color will be changing soon. Cool to see these bikes being brought back, there's just nothing like them currently being made. I love the simplicity of them. My bike is being built up as a hybrid 650/550 so let me know if there are any parts you need. I have lots of stuff I took off of the 550 and bunch of gaskets/seals/o-rings etc that I'm not going to be using. After looking at what was left of the wiring harness when I got the bike, I decided to replace the whole thing so that'll be an adventure in itself.

Your bike is looking great!

Thanks! These bikes really look great.

dmonday · « **Reply #48 on:** May 02, 2013, 01:12:37 PM »

Quote from: lone*X on May 02, 2013, 10:51:50 AM

Before you fill and bleed the rebuilt master cylinder be sure to read this service bulletin from HONDA. This will keep it from doing that nasty seeping at the lever. So simple, yet so few are aware of the proper way to bleed the master cylinder. Its in reply #18.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=102388.0

Awesome, thanks for the heads up!

dmonday · « **Reply #49 on:** May 03, 2013, 09:14:02 AM »

The bike was running poorly b/c the points had too large of a gap, runs very good now. Other than that, we rebuilt the mastercylinder last night and put on my galfer stainless lines (which I'm not impressed with...too long on the lower portion, directions as to what parts should be in the kit and where to use them would have been nice). We are having problems threading in the lower hardline to the stainless braided line. Seems that my rectifier/regulator took a crap so I'm putting one together.

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Author Topic: 1974 cb550; Fixin' this baby up! (Read 29454 times)