Topic: New story: improving the CB750K front brake.

[HondaMan]

Here's another hot tip: swap the front forks around and run the front brake on the back side of the fork leg. It reduces the swing weight of the front end, especally when you have 2 disk calipers up there.

Up side: better (quicker) handling in zigzags. Downside: gets more wet in the rain. Also tends to lock the forks during braking (some call this upside, because it's less nosedive    ).  Long-tern upside: longer pad life (can't say why, just does). Long-tern downside: a little more fork wear inside the lower tubes (also can't say why for sure, just have seen it on friend's bikes).

If you're a canyon racer, it might be a nice winter project. Get new hard brake lines so you can bend them around and go back the other way if you change your mind.

I've had it both ways. I settled on the original setup because it's better in the rain.   

[cben750f0]

i did a 'how to' here...on the brake reversal ..if ppl are interested

http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=259.0

peace

[bill440cars]

i did a 'how to' here...on the brake reversal ..if ppl are interested

http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=259.0

peace

                       cben,  I remember that one and it was very well done I might add. I downloaded and
            save it for future use myself. I, for one, appreciate the time that you, or anyone else, take the
            time to do that.
                                                                     Later on, Bill

[dusterdude]

Here's another hot tip: swap the front forks around and run the front brake on the back side of the fork leg. It reduces the swing weight of the front end, especally when you have 2 disk calipers up there.

Up side: better (quicker) handling in zigzags. Downside: gets more wet in the rain. Also tends to lock the forks during braking (some call this upside, because it's less nosedive    ).  Long-tern upside: longer pad life (can't say why, just does). Long-tern downside: a little more fork wear inside the lower tubes (also can't say why for sure, just have seen it on friend's bikes).

If you're a canyon racer, it might be a nice winter project. Get new hard brake lines so you can bend them around and go back the other way if you change your mind.

I've had it both ways. I settled on the original setup because it's better in the rain.   

what bonehead rides in the rain on purpose.sounds like a good swap tho.

[USN20]

HondaMan,

Not trying to hijack your thread ... Would having our Honda 750 front brake rotors cryogenic treated be of any benefit towards improved braking over stock? www.nitrofreeze.com  Good or bad idea?

[ProTeal55]

Not to throw fuel on the fire , but I have heard from more than a few people that this is not the best thing to do. Like I said I am no expert, just going by what more than a few people have told me.

I believe it has something to do with the brake being designed to pivot a certain way, and when this is put on backwards, somesort of wear issue or some crap happens. The only reason i know this because the original dual-disc setup on my 21'' front wheel had the calipers behind the front forks, and for the week or so I rode it that way, i had about 20 people come up to me and point out it was wrong/bad/not smart to run them that way. Even Fred at Triple-O service, the shop that fixed my scoot, said running them behind is inncorrect and will do more damage than good.

My 4cents, please take it as that...

[STLrocker]

i've ben running mine like that for a few years now, on two different bikes, with no problems.

[cben750f0]

mine have been that way for a couple of years and there has been no issues..... also the guys here that reace the CB's run   them backwards aswell....*shrug*... everyone has their own opinion.....    peace

[HondaMan]

HondaMan,

Not trying to hijack your thread ... Would having our Honda 750 front brake rotors cryogenic treated be of any benefit towards improved braking over stock? www.nitrofreeze.com  Good or bad idea?

Hmm...I will have to go ask the metalurgy guys here what they think.   

[HondaMan]

i did a 'how to' here...on the brake reversal ..if ppl are interested

http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=259.0

peace

Most excellent!

[Mark M]

If you were to do that with anything more recent then I would agree that you are going to run into trouble.
With CAD the differences between designed for compression or designed for extension are big, but in the case of
something thaught up in the late 60's the mountings will have been designed to withstand a total force of whatever direction simply because they didn;t have the computers to work out all the vectors etc that they do these days. Until relatively recently the notion of something being bad because it was 'over engineered' was unknown. These days the optomum is for every single part to collapse at the same time, that way nothing is too strong/heavy/wastfull. This applies as much to racing machines as to road bikes, after all most modern bikes will do no more than 3K miles a year, many a lot less. So longevity is of very little interest, weight loss is a much bigger driver for all bike design.
The end result is that a modern bike will need to hemeticaly sealed into some tupperware in a temperature controlled enviroment to stand any small chance of lasting as well as any sohc4    even then all the plastic will be out to prove that it will biodegrade a lot faster than 'Friends of the Earth' will tell you.  

[kaceyf2]

I have seen many   cb750   f1's with twin disc set up with its calipers in front, and the f2 cb750 sohc has its calipers behind, as stock, and it uses more powerfull calipers!it has the same 35mm forks as f1's do, weighs about the same, and goes a tad faster, the triple tree aint relevently different, nor is the headstock, so in effect honda made a cb750 with both its calipers behind, and nobody said they couldnt do that!
good one hondaman for the pros and cons and the work gone into it all!
and anyways, we LOve these bikes cos they shake rattle and roll!!! Computer generated perfection?
wheres the excitement and danger in that?

[Honda CBer]

as a brief aside, may i strongly recommend conversion to stainless lines if you havent done so already... SS lines produce the biggest single improvement in these old brakes that i have seen... no "squish", and a lot more control over modulation...
FWIW

[Gabus]

as a brief aside, may i strongly recommend conversion to stainless lines if you havent done so already... SS lines produce the biggest single improvement in these old brakes that i have seen... no "squish", and a lot more control over modulation...

I just did..finally have firm brakes!

[puppytrax]

as a brief aside, may i strongly recommend conversion to stainless lines...

Is there someone who makes them up specifically for the SOHC4 Hondas?? I noticed in one thread, a member stated he had a local shop make up one for his bike...I'm not sure if I'd trust the McDonalds rejects who work at my local NAPA/AutoZone...   

[cben750f0]

got my lines made at an industrial hydraulics manufacturer.... they use the same parts as the customs set you but from NAME brand places.... and i figure if they are gonna make lines for the 4300 tonne forge press, i figured they were good enough for me.... atleast they are the right lengths...peace

[Noel]

My lines were stock lines made by Galfer for the CBR1000. They're long enough for clip-ons; not sure if they'd be long enough for standard bars. Point is that you should be able to find braided lines "over the counter". Maybe if someone comes across the right bits they could write it up for the rest of us.

< edit > Just to put my money where my mouth is, I went down to the garage and measured the lines. 25 inches, near as I can measure with a steel tape. Straight banjos on one end and +/-30 degree angles on the other.

[Honda CBer]

there is a shop fairly near me... when i need to convert lines, i take him the old ones... he either copies them or alters them as i request (length or fitting angles)... he charges about $35 for a front single caliper set-up made with coated line (eliminates rubbing wear)... dual caliper set-ups will obviously be about double that... a lot cheaper than galfer... check your yellow pages for hydraulic lines/hoses... i had to call a few places before i found someone who does banjo fittings...

[Noel]

...a lot cheaper than galfer...

Ha! 50 bucks for the pair (new), including bolts and washers. Ebay can be be a good source if you're patient and/or lucky.

[STLrocker]

for stainless lines, goodridge makes pre-made lnes in any length you could need. they have threaded ends on them, and you then select the banjo or fitting that you need. they will screw into the end of the line. then you have the stainless line in the length you need. most shops carry a selection of lines and fittings.

it's what i use on both bikes. works nice and easy.

[puppytrax]

for stainless lines, goodridge makes pre-made lnes in any length you could need...most shops carry a selection of lines and fittings.

Would you know of any online sites that carry those lines & fittings?? My shop never heard of them...   

[hevykevy420]

http://www.helusa.com/

this guy kicks @rse.  he will take your order, any lengths, and have the lines to you in a few days.  i paid $125 for three lines shipped and the lines were top notch...

[eldar]

Craig does a top job. $50 including shipping for a customizable line is great. You can get a line in 6 or so different colors and the banjo too!