Topic: Spoked wheel balancing

[apormarkos]

i got new tires on my 550 recently and the bastards didn't balance my wheels (amongst other things they didn't do- i won't be going back there again).  while picking up filters from another honda shop, i asked if they had any of those lead wheel weights for spoked wheels.  the tech at the counter told me that they aren't used anymore and i should use the stick on type that are used for cast wheels.  so the question is: what to use? what kind of weights do you all use to balance your spoked wheels, and if you have one, can i get a link to your favorite dispensary of said items?
also, i noticed the imbalance only on the front wheel; a slight hop was evident at slower speeds (20-30mph).  would a rear tire imbalance be noticed through the seat or would it feel like a front wheel issue?  i ask this because the rear of the bike feels fine, but i've read on here that sometimes issues at the rear of the bike will feel like it's in the front.
thanks,
apor

[DME]

I use the stick-on type with no probs.

[crazypj]

cruisers still use spoked wheels, try a Suzuki dealer and ask for Intruder wheel weights, they probably have some lying around.
PJ

[Einyodeler]

I use the bullet style fishing line weights, they can be had in just about any size & the price is right......CHEAP

[prsman23@hotmail.c]

I use the bullet style fishing line weights, they can be had in just about any size & the price is right......CHEAP

That's a damned good idea!

[apormarkos]

fishing line weights?  cheap? this sounds like exactly what i need. i don't fish, so is this a particular type of weight, or are they all the same? if i were to balance two wheels, what weights and how many of them should i get of each to reasonably expect to use?
thanks,
apor

[Einyodeler]

Most bait shops sell the assortment package of a couple of each size from 1/16th oz. to 1/2 oz. weights for a buck and change.
Or you can get a big package of 50 for around $5

Just ream them out a littlle with a drill bit and cut them lengthwise with a dremel, put them around the spoke & press them back together.

[RSV12K]

You need to do more that stick weights on the wheel willy nilly. You need to still balance the wheel. Do a Google--I've seen DIY wheel balancers. I broke down and bought one for about $100 some years ago.

For what it's worth, I've been told that you really don't need to balance motorcycle wheels, although I couldn't explain why that is. I balance them any way.

[merc2dogs]

 I've noticed that cycle wheels are pretty well balanced as-is, only serious issues I've ever had with imbalance was on a new to me bike,  oddly worn tread and a hop when doing 35+, no test ride was given price and handed over the money, ('75 750k bought in mid 77 for $100 when owner dropped it) but the only issue was a big chrome bullet style nut the guy was using as a valve cap, pulled it off and the bike rode fine even with the odd wear pattern, the wear pattern made turns very strange feeling though

  Haven't had any of my tires balanced in years, the last was a set of comstars, and I could realy tell with that one, maybe mags are less well balanced at the factory than spokes.

ken.

[apormarkos]

You need to do more that stick weights on the wheel willy nilly. You need to still balance the wheel.

For what it's worth, I've been told that you really don't need to balance motorcycle wheels, although I couldn't explain why that is. I balance them any way.

having just recently torn apart my 30 year old motorcycle engine to reseal it, i don't think i'll string a bunch of lead to my bike "willy nilly"... i know it isn't a tacklebox  

the reason for balancing motorcycle wheels is that no matter how they try, no wheel (at least in this price range) is perfectly balanced, and the same goes for the rubber you're putting on it.  plus, the stem in the inner tube is going to be heaver than the other side of the tube. you may get lucky and everything evens out in which case     i'm not so lucky, my front feels like i'm going over bumps at around 20-30mph... now that i think about it, i'll need to check my wheel for roundness and lateral movement.
apor

[eldar]

I am not sure the poor balance would show up that soon. You might actually want to check and make sure the tube is not twisted inside the tire. if it is, it can cause a bad spot to occur. Also, inspect the tire itself, it could have been poorly constructed.

[Gordon]

The only problem I've had with the adhesive lead weights that stick to the rim is they make polishing the rims more difficult.  You can't just spin the wheel and hold a rag against it anymore.

[jsaab2748]

Any good aftermarket cycle parts shop can order the weights you need, but you may have to buy them in certain quantities. The fishing bullet weights bear a similar resemblence, and come in many
different weights. You could probably really fine tune your balance with them, and I'd agree they are
very attractively priced compared to the ones you'd get at a cycle shop.

[bwaller]

Did you check to see if the tire is seated all the way around the rim properly? 

[Bodi]

I just wrap thick 50-50 lead/tin (hard to find now?) plumbing solder around the spoke nipple.

[apormarkos]

Also, inspect the tire itself, it could have been poorly constructed.

it was a pretty pricey tire (bridgestone s11) so i'm hoping that's not the case.  to tell you the truth, i'm not sure the exact speed this was happening but it was slower... as in like: honestly officer, it felt like i was doing 30mph.    i know one thing for sure, it seemed buttery smooth at higher speeds.  definitely anything above 50 and up to 85 or so was silky  (had to do a highway run to see if my reseal job worked, which it did  ).
i've done a lot of bicycle tires in my day... now that i'll be balancing my wheel and checking other things as well, should i have just done this whole tire change myself?  i think so. 

[eldar]

Well I took my tires in and had the rubber put on. It was not a rush job but it was quick and done good. Everyplace is different. But give balancing a shot first. If things are ok, then take it bake in or do it yourself. A bad tire is rare, more likely it is balance or the tube. Some places dont know how to change tires. Before fully seating the tire, you should fill the tube a bit to its normal shape to make sure it is on correct before seating the second bead. As in 1 bead on each side. So slip one side on, fill tube some, not a lot, just enough to fill it out. Check for twists or kinks, then seat the other side and you should be good.

[crazypj]

I saw a couple of posts saying you dont need to balance wheels.
In my experience, checking and adjusting if needed can 'cure' handling problems, particularly rear wheel balance which can and does set up a weave at higher speeds(70+) front wheel out of balance is usually felt as vibration through forks/bars
PJ

[apormarkos]

I saw a couple of posts saying you dont need to balance wheels.
In my experience, checking and adjusting if needed can 'cure' handling problems, particularly rear wheel balance which can and does set up a weave at higher speeds(70+) front wheel out of balance is usually felt as vibration through forks/bars
PJ

yep, i was feeling a mild front wheel hop at lower speeds, kinda like going over smooth bumps.  looking at the front wheel while riding, i noticed up and down movement of the forks.  it felt like the road wasn't smooth, so much so that that's what i thought it was for a few days.  but after traveling on many different roads and feeling the same sensation, i figured it has to be wheel balance. when i checked the wheel (just visually), i noticed the old wheel weights were still on it, which led me to belive they didn't balance the wheel.  i took the old weights off, and it smoothed out quite a bit, but it's still there..  too bad the bike is in the next state south in my dad's garage and i can't work till the weekend.  gives me time to replace the exhaust gaskets on my cj360
apor

[Hop on a Honda]

My pet hate is getting rims and tires balanced.
You should always find the heavy part of the wheel assy before you put the tire on.
Easy way is to get a sheet of thick glass 12x12" and make sure its level.
Put the whole/ complete front wheel /or wheel & rim on it and look for the the obvious heavy spot.
Mark the heavy spot and see how much its out. It may more than likely need proper balancing and aligning in a mandrel using a (DTI)  Dial Test Indicator
Tires have bad habits of being unbalanced. But there is usually a yellow dot marked on them.
Which is a suggestion only that the dot is the heavy part. You can also do the glass act again!! works if the tube is inserted and then add some pressure just to keep it honest.
Usually if the rim is well balanced it's customary to put the dot next to the valve stem.
I would try and establish the heavy part of the tire myself, then mix and match the rim tube and tite I try to use talcum powder when assembling the tire to the rim /wheel. This way IF the tire can be rotated to assist in the balancing of the whole tire rim assy, then it becomes easy.
Inflate the tire slightly untill you are satisified that the whole assembly is balanced as good as it can be done with out weights.
Then inflate the tube to the max then reset the correct pressure (29) PSI Front.
Assuming you have a coupler of milkcrates & using the front 15mm axel find the heavy spot again and add the weights if needed to make the assy spin freely with out it being BIAS.
Good luck.
Dave Australia.

[Hop on a Honda]

My pet hate is getting rims and tires balanced.
You should always find the heavy part of the wheel assy before you put the tire on.
Easy way is to get a sheet of thick glass 12x12" and make sure its level.
Put the whole/ complete front wheel /or wheel & rim (With out the tire and tube) on it and look for the the obvious heavy spot.
Mark the heavy spot and see how much it's out. It may more than likely need proper balancing and aligning in a mandrel using a (DTI)  Dial Test Indicator

Tires have bad habits of being unbalanced. But there is usually a yellow dot marked on them.
Which is a suggestion only that the dot is the light spot / part. You can also do the glass act again!! works if the tube is inserted and then add some pressure just to keep it honest.
Usually if the rim is well balanced it's customary to put the dot next to the valve stem.
I would try and establish the heavy part of the tire myself, then mix and match the rim to the tube and tire I try to use talcum powder when assembling the tire to the rim /wheel. This way IF the tire can be rotated slightly to assist in the fine balancing of the whole tire rim assy, then it becomes easy.
Inflate the tire slightly untill you are satisified that the whole assembly is balanced as good as it can be done with out weights.
Then inflate the tube to the max then reset the correct pressure (29) PSI Front.
Assuming you have a coupler of milk crates & using the front 15mm axel find the heavy spot again and add the weights if needed to make the assy spin freely with out it being BIAS.
Good luck.
Dave Australia.

[Boomologist]

On my chopper if either wheel is slightly out of balance I feel it. I'm not a big fan of those peel&stick weights. I have lost a few over the years and that's no fun in the middle of Wyoming with the nearest shop 60+ miles away. Good thing the bounce only shows itself at certain speeds.
I insist on the crimp on style and don't seem to have a problem getting them although I do like the idea of fishing weights..

I have been looking for one of those old (50's) Hunter Spin balancers. They had a pick up sensor that you placed on the axle. It operated a strobe light that showed where the wheel was out of balance. It also had a separate motor that pressed against the tire and spun it.

I have also made a home made bubble balancer that works but not as well as spinning.

[Head]

You can't beat having your wheels spun balanced,I do mine done to a half gram of weight,mine are spun at 60 mph equivalence.I've
should menchine that on the the last 6 750's in 2 months the front ends would oscillate up and down at 45-55mph, 1 worn out bushings in the lower legs,2 with oat meal for fork fluid,1with one blown seal this side was almost dry,1 with the brake puck corroded
and hanging up plus a new cheap tire very much out of round.A the icing on the cake 1 with out a single tight spoke on the bike
and dry and ruined wheel bearings.Most of the times it just a minor balance,but there is no quick fix when proper maintenance is not
done.The manuals tell what to do at intervals,If its been sitting for some time check everthing,read the manual, ask people,
post question in the forum's. Maintenance also means safety, Know your bike?
                                               Head

[mrbreeze]

I used to change my own tires and never balance them  all the time but after my last tire purchase (new Metzeler for the rear) I let the shop that sold it to me mount it. $15 to mount & balance. I thought that was a great deal (I brought the wheel into them off of the bike).They used the lead spoke weights.I still have my old motorcycle tire irons but took them to work for when someone comes in with a quad tire or something.I realize everbody doesn't live in or near the big city and might have to mount & balance their own but if you do....I think $15 is well worth forgoing the job.