Topic: Before I damage my carbs

[goldarrow]

Back story: few weeks ago I picked up a 76 550k bike with stock carbs 087A.  And while going through the usual routine, getting the carbs clean, found that float pin post on #4 carb is broken. Much reading found that 022A carbs is closest fit, so I pulled it out of my parts bike.  And here it is

Nicely gummed up with old gas.  Took the jets out fine, but having problem taking out the float pins, all 4 of them won't move, and I don't want to break the posts. 

So, what would you do?

[prov431]

You could try soaking them in solvent overnight, that might loosen them up. Perhaps a little heat after the soak if they're still tight?

[goldarrow]

I was thinking of doing that, but unsure of soaking the whole rack or take them apart.  Really have no intention of taking them apart.

[MoMo]

A heat gun in conjunction with the proper size pin punch and, yes, the carbs will need to be apart to get at the inner two...Larry

[phil71]

if you think that's tough, wait till you have to bash out those emulsion tubes.

[Deltarider]

and, yes, the carbs will need to be apart to get at the inner two...Larry

No, you don't.

[ekpent]

Real carb cleaner soak and a good heat gun to futher soften the crud and patience. Let some of the chems do the work first.

[MoMo]

and, yes, the carbs will need to be apart to get at the inner two...Larry

No, you don't.

How else will he be able to get  a straight line to tap the float pin without separating the carb bodies?  Plus, the o-ring on the fuel tees will need to be replaced. All that needs to be done is remove the linkage spring and the 8 screws holding the carbs to the bracket...Larry

[lucky]

You may need to take the carbs apart.
That may be the reason the other post was broken. IT depends how badly the pins are stuck.
IF the end of the pin was gripped with needle nose pliers it may the reason it is stuck.

When trying to remove the float pin make sure you have the right tools.
Use a pin punch that has the proper size end. Smaller than the pin too.
Do NOT use a pointed punch because it will spread the soft brass pin end and make it tighter.

Tap from one end with the posts SUPPORTED and then tap from the other direction to make sure it is loose.
Sometimes they will come out easier in one direction that the other direction.
The float pin posts MUST be supported.

A previous owner may have tapped on the end of the pin and spread the end of the soft brass pin making it possible to only get it out in one direction. Look for evidence of
of damage.

PLEASE do not throw the other set of carbs in the trash can.
Many owners may be looking for those carb parts.

Make sure you replace the float needles and if they are metal tipped ,replace the seat too. If they are rubber tipped then replace only the needle.

[Deltarider]

How else will he be able to get a straight line to tap the float pin without separating the carb bodies?

Tap? Tap?!  Well... good luck.

Plus, the o-ring on the fuel tees will need to be replaced.

Not, if they're not leaking. Can be tested easily. On my bike they are still good since 1976.

All that needs to be done is remove the linkage spring and the 8 screws holding the carbs to the bracket...

All work not necessary is a lot of work IMO. Read recent posts in this forum where people had lost tiny parts in the proces or had extra parts lying around after reassembling.
Start with the easy work.

[scottly]

Do you have the broken post? Jim F can weld it back on. Look on the services offered board.

EDIT Just looked, and Jim's thread has disappeared...

[goldarrow]

Do you have the broken post? Jim F can weld it back on. Look on the services offered board.

EDIT Just looked, and Jim's thread has disappeared...

Thanks Scott, I did get in touch with Jim F about welding the broken carb, very reasonable price, but At the moment, I cant afford to pay the FedEx for shipping the carbs back and forth.  Just bought a set of wheels that put another big hole in the wallet. 

[bjbuchanan]

Just be careful taking them apart. From your build thread you seem not to be ham fisted, you will be just fine. Carb cleaner and patience

They get broken because you get "mechanics" or just plain retards hitting on a tiny post and then wonder why it breaks

[Eddie]

The ones on my goldwing were frozen pretty good. I used acetone, grabbed one end of the pin with needle nose and twist...a little..then more acetone. Little tap and I mean little...with a small punch and drip more acetone...etc.. they all finally came out.  Took me 10 hours to rebuild those carbs.. hope I dont have to take them off again..

[BuffaloBill]

Personally I wouldn't consider NOT taking them apart.  It really isn't a big deal.  If your 76 orings aren't leaking yet, chances are they will soon.

[bjbuchanan]

Those orings on the fuel tees are pretty damn tough, mine are original. I obviously check it over but they don't leak at all and still have a really snug fit to the carb bodies. Whatever material they used was damn appropriate

[Randy]

Dude I 'll take the carbs apart..I did my 73 500k and had a blast... And I live in the SVF...

[Randy]

here's what a finished with

[Deltarider]

Those orings on the fuel tees are pretty damn tough, mine are original. I obviously check it over but they don't leak at all and still have a really snug fit to the carb bodies. Whatever material they used was damn appropriate

On my model they're doubled on each side of the T-joint. Maybe that's the secret.

[Randy]

Those orings on the fuel tees are pretty damn tough, mine are original. I obviously check it over but they don't leak at all and still have a really snug fit to the carb bodies. Whatever material they used was damn appropriate

On my model they're doubled on each side of the T-joint. Maybe that's the secret.

I found them at our Local Do It Center... or Dormans parts drawers..

[goldarrow]

Thanks guys for all responses.  The float pin posts survive!  All floats finally came off.  24 hours of soaking pine-sol/water mix, an hour of tapping the pins left and right, twist and pull.



I can sleep now