Topic: TSUNAMI-1978 CB750 K8 DONOR TO CAFE'

[BPellerine]

looking great greg .bill

[Tsunami]

Re: that bike on CALJ737 message above----WOW- my grips are KNURLEY but those are GNARLY!!! I like the tank.  Looks like some sort of overlay with faux rivets.  Funny I've been sitting here watching U tube to learn how to airbrush rivets and panel lines for my tanks and seat similar to that.  Wish I had thought of that though, some people are better at thinking outside the box and that fellow looks like he can superbly, my hats off too him.

And yes I will be putting the other cable on soon

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Re: that bike on CALJ737 message above----WOW- my grips are KNURLEY but those are GNARLY!!! I like the tank.  Looks like some sort of overlay with faux rivets.  Funny I've been sitting here watching U tube to learn how to airbrush rivets and panel lines for my tanks and seat similar to that.  Wish I had thought of that though, some people are better at thinking outside the box and that fellow looks like he can superbly, my hats off too him.

And yes I will be putting the other cable on soon

Greg,

The only drawback to those grips is that they will be a bit hard on your hands -- no give to them if/when you squeeze.  But they look cool!

[Tsunami]

Most likely however I'm not taking any cross country trips on it either.  For putting around town, that's what gloves are for I just want to hang on woooo weeeee!  and they do look cool

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Bad-a$$ cool. 

[Tsunami]

Hey All, life is just too busy!  Decided to let the painting go for awhile and start the wiring.  DREADED WIREING I need some help from someone on the board, I don't know how to present a question to everyone?
My 1st problem is I have no engine stop switch.  I have found a always open switch, very small.  It appears on the schematic that the black with white strip wire would need to be grounded to stop the engine?  I don't know how much current runs through it but think it must be quite a bit?  If so could I not run the small always open switch to a STDP relay and using the 87a pin to be able to use the small switch to activate the relay to open the circuit to ground thus killing the engine?  Simple eh?  Could use the help or send me packing on the forum where I should be asking this question.  Mean while some photos for your amusement.  #1 finally found a place for my PDM60, #2 note the huge bundle of wire on the right for the GripAce Switch , #3 The tie wraps are only temp. until everything is place looks like about a 12-15" need to be cut out in the rear , #4 not too crowded yet , #5 this is all the results of my misspent youth where did I go wrong , #6 My head is spinning!

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Hey All, life is just too busy!  Decided to let the painting go for awhile and start the wiring.  DREADED WIREING I need some help from someone on the board, I don't know how to present a question to everyone?
My 1st problem is I have no engine stop switch.  I have found a always open switch, very small.  It appears on the schematic that the black with white strip wire would need to be grounded to stop the engine?  I don't know how much current runs through it but think it must be quite a bit?  If so could I not run the small always open switch to a STDP relay and using the 87a pin to be able to use the small switch to activate the relay to open the circuit to ground thus killing the engine?  Simple eh?  Could use the help or send me packing on the forum where I should be asking this question.  Mean while some photos for your amusement.  #1 finally found a place for my PDM60, #2 note the huge bundle of wire on the right for the GripAce Switch , #3 The tie wraps are only temp. until everything is place looks like about a 12-15" need to be cut out in the rear , #4 not too crowded yet , #5 this is all the results of my misspent youth where did I go wrong , #6 My head is spinning!

Hey Greg,

I didn't notice before that you are using the GripAce gear.  I believe that company is still run by Jason Britton's (Kawasaki professional stunt rider and TV host) brother.  I met the guy a couple of times and his product is pretty cool; it sure allows for clean-looking bars.

[Tsunami]

Correct Don, I spoke with him several times last year when purchasing the product, and likely will again when I get to that part of the installation.  I'm not expecting trouble as the instructions are very good, but you know Murphy's law!  He was very helpful and I sent my grip to him to have it routed out for the button mechanism.  The wiring harness works well through the headlight bucket, wires to the horns need to be shortened.  The rear is a different story, most everything may need shorting excepting some of the Battery connections.  I cant place the Rectifier, start solenoid, led Winker (Blinker) on the pan until I have all the wires worked out.  The fun begins.   

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

You are a brave, patient man, Greg.  I probably should love wiring.  It has a logical, flowchart order to it.  I just lose my mind with the rats nest and tracking down shorts (a problem I've had on two bikes).  I contracted out the wiring to some wiring wunderkind kid who re-did both harnesses from scratch -- and no more wiring issues.  I bit the bullet on my next build and bought a Motogadget M-Unit and M-button. 

[Tsunami]

I really wanted the M-unit but a little too rich for my pocket these days so I went with the PDM60, still trying to figure out the negative trigger on that one.  I will though. No takers on the Relay question, huh?  I did find a place on the board that appeared to be the place to ask but no results yet.  Been getting some work so not  much time for the bike at the moment, its good to step away and go at it fresh another day.  As long as I remember what the heck I was doing.

[brandEn]

I can attempt to answer your question as I understand it....

The engine "kill" switch is a normally closed switch that basically is just an on/off for power to the coils. I don't believe there is any ground to the switch itself. The black power wire goes in one side of the switch and the black/white wire comes out the other side and powers the ignition coils. Lots of us on the forum including myself have used an automotive relay to power the coils. You use the kill switch to power the relay and run a hot power wire directly from your battery through the relay to power the coil. You use a good ground on the grounding terminal on the relay. Make sense?

[Tsunami]

I think I have it! So the black/white wire is the power to the coils, it is fed by the black common wire through the stock switch which I no longer have and will use the relay as that switch. What I need to do is interrupt this black to black/white wire until the engine stops. I use the relay to do this by energizing  the coil with the small switch which is grounded on one wire and the other to 86 pin and 12v on the 85pin.  Push the switch to close the circuit, that energizes opening the normally closed relay with the common black wire on pin 30 running through it to the 87a wire that is the ignition feed wire (black/white) opening that circuit which interrupts the power killing the engine. Once the engine is dead I release the small switch which close's the relay (resets) I always get confused about the black wire as it was always the ground back in the day now its green, so is that my power wire or like you say run a dedicated hot wire from the battery?  Wouldn't you want the 12v switched through the ignition as your power lead?  I think were close and thanks for your help brandEn.

[brandEn]

So the kill switch you want to use is a spring loaded deal that you have to hold? If your not pressing it the contacts are open but when you press it the contacts close? Originally the kill switch is always closed and when you flip the switch it opens breaking power to the coils. I guess the way you want to do it would work you just need to make sure the you connect the power the coils from the battery through pins 87a and 30. When you energize the relay coil through pins 85 86 it would interrupt power through 87a and 30.

Actually now that I think about it if you do it this way your coils will always have power. Even if your bike is turned off. Not sure thats an ideal or safe way to do this. But like I said Im no expert! Hopefully someone else will chime in. Two Tired would be perfect. He is real good at this stuff.

[brandEn]

as an FYI I love these little micro relays. Much smaller and easier to stash on your bike
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Relays/relays.html

[Tsunami]

Should make no difference as the stock switch is always closed as well.  Yes he has good stuff, if that is the four pin that is always closed, most are always open. He didn't have it in stock when I needed it but as it turns out I have the five pin that works as well and its more than small enough.  Thanks everyone, I feel more confident that this should work.

 Now for something completely different, do I still need the diode for the starter if I don't have the clutch switch? Seems as it is only there to prevent the starter from energizing when the clutch switch is close.  So no switch, nothing for the diode to do??

[BPellerine]

Greg I downloaded the wiring diag that branden posted and then had a guy with a BIG printer make it about 2 ft  by 3ft so I could hang it on the wall ,easy to work from.bill

[brandEn]

Nope don't need the diode. I just removed mine and the wires.

[Tsunami]

I hear ya Bill, been there done that, thanks for the incase though

[Tsunami]

Great two less to worry about, thanks brandEn

[BPellerine]

way ahead of me greg!your bike is looking great!bill

[Tsunami]

For those of us who are confused or have aged and forgotten I will provide this from the FAQ section special thanks out to Jonesy-- THIS IS THE BIBLE!!! ALL IS REVIELD! THANK YOU, THANK YOU!

Found it in FAQ under electrical

More from Jonesy:

(I put this together after a few questions about the wiring in these bikes. Some suggested this be put in the FAQ. Hope this is helpful.)

Here’s a general wire guide for the 70’s Honda SOHC/4’s. Some of this may be different for the 650 (I’m mostly familiar with the 350, 400, 500/550 and 750) or bikes factory-equipped with electronic ignition. Consult your manual for specifics.

Main Color/Tracer Stripe Color- Description (Approximate Path, if Applicable)

All Circuits
Red- Constant Hot From Battery (Battery Terminal-Main Fuse-Key Switch)
Black- Switched Power Supply Buss (Throughout motorcycle)
Green- Ground (Throughout motorcycle)

Lighting
Brown- Tail Light Power (Main Switch-Tail Light)
Brown/White- Instrumentation Backlighting (Lighting Switch-Instruments)
Orange- Left Turn Signals (Turn Signal Switch-Front/Rear Signals)
Orange/White- Left Front Marker (Light Switch-Marker Lamp)
Light Blue- Right Turn Signals (Turn Signal Switch-Front/Rear Signals)
Light Blue/White- Right Front Marker (Light Switch-Marker Lamp)
Gray- Pulsing Power for Signals (Flasher Relay-Turn Signal Switch)
Blue- High Beam Power (Hi/Lo Switch-Headlamp/Indicator Lamp)
White- Low Beam Power (Hi/Lo Switch-Headlamp)
Brown/Red- Fused Headlamp Power (Fuse Box-Hi/Lo Switch)

Ignition
Black/White- Coil Power Supply (Cutoff Switch-Coils)
Yellow- Breaker Signal, Cylinders 2&3 (Right Points-2&3 Coil)
Blue- Breaker Signal, Cylinders 1&4 (Left Points-1&4 Coil)

Starting/Safety/Monitoring
Blue/Red- Oil Pressure Signal (Oil Pressure Switch-Indicator Lamp)
Red/Green- Neutral Switch Signal (Neutral Switch-Indicator Lamp-Safety Unit)
Green/Red- Clutch Switch (Safety Unit-Clutch Switch-Starter Button)
Green/White- Horn (Horn Button-Horn)
Yellow/Red- Solenoid Signal (Starter Button-Solenoid/Safety Unit)
Green/Yellow- Brake Light Power (Front Brake Switch/Rear Brake Switch-Brake Light)
Brown/Blue- Turn Signal Pickup (Turn Signal Beeper-Turn Signal Switch)

Charging (3-Phase External Excitation Systems)
Yellow- Stator Coil Output (Stator-Rectifier)
White- Field Coil Supply (Field Coil-Voltage Regulator)
Red/White- Positive Rectifier Output (Rectifier-Battery)

[Tsunami]

 
Made myself a nifty starter solenoid bracket out of a piece of extra aluminum bar stock.  Not real Purdy but will clean it up later.  Still need to bring the tangs in a little more.  When I'm ready to mount it I'll pull the unit and bend in the top of the tangs to hold it from dropping out as it will likely be mounted upside down.

[Tsunami]

Worked on the Battery cables and my dads plaque from WWII, He was a tail gunner in a B-24 and they were hit by flak.  Luckily he was not wounded but one of his 2 .50 was jammed by shrapnel that hit is ammo.  Many years ago he mounted it on a plaque along with some other stuff.  Over the years it tarnished and got beat up a little. So I took it apart buffed the brass repaired the mount for the bullet etc.  Some parts a drying when I get it finished I will post a photo.

[Tsunami]

Mo

[BPellerine]

jeez greg do you have a weapons stash!!!?haha bill