Author Topic: Tool recommendations for degreeing a cam needed (Read 9660 times)

tweakin · « **Reply #25 on:** March 23, 2013, 05:43:44 am »

B- I have all the tools you need to degree your cam when you are ready. Just shoot me a text or call.

brandEn · « **Reply #26 on:** March 23, 2013, 08:22:20 am »

right on man.

tweakin · « **Reply #27 on:** March 23, 2013, 08:33:38 am »

Quote from: brandEn on March 23, 2013, 08:22:20 am

right on man.

I have a the APE degree wheel, so if you want something different you might want to pick a new one up.

Big Jay · « **Reply #28 on:** March 25, 2013, 06:36:03 pm »

Bookmark this site; http://racetoolz.com/

brandEn · « **Reply #29 on:** March 25, 2013, 06:52:06 pm »

Thanks Big Jay, That piston stop is going to be a must have i think...

tweakin · « **Reply #30 on:** March 25, 2013, 06:54:08 pm »

Quote from: brandEn on March 25, 2013, 06:52:06 pm

Thanks Big Jay, That piston stop is going to be a must have i think...

I have that for you to borrow also...

brandEn · « **Reply #31 on:** March 25, 2013, 07:02:41 pm »

damn dude, is there any tool you don't have? haha. SWEET!

Sam Green Racing · « **Reply #32 on:** March 26, 2013, 03:22:20 am »

just a big one.

sorry Tige.

tweakin · « **Reply #33 on:** March 26, 2013, 06:56:48 am »

That was just too easy Sam... solid comment.

Quote from: Sam Green Racing on March 26, 2013, 03:22:20 am

just a big one. sorry Tige.

brandEn · « **Reply #34 on:** March 26, 2013, 07:05:23 am »

Yup that was a perfect set up!

brandEn · « **Reply #35 on:** June 24, 2013, 04:38:46 pm »

I was wondering if there is a good way to mark the case and crank on TDC once I find it with a piston stop and wheel? Seems like this would be a good idea and make things more convenient when it comes time to check and set timing. Paint maybe? Scribe? Engraver? Bad idea?

FunJimmy · « **Reply #36 on:** June 24, 2013, 04:47:11 pm »

Branden

I would think you'd wanna mark the crank & case respectively, but there are iddy bits in the way. Having said that, isn't the "T" mark on the advance the TDC marker?

brandEn · « **Reply #37 on:** June 24, 2013, 04:53:44 pm »

Yes, but I was under the impression that was not 100% accurate. Having never done this procedure I just dont know. I just want to make sure and mark it while I am degreeing it with the wheel if its needed....

bwaller · « **Reply #38 on:** June 24, 2013, 04:56:19 pm »

When you mount a large wheel you'll see how such a tiny amount of movement can make. It is a bit of work finding true TDC and getting the wheel set but it'll be by far the most accurate approach to mount it when you need it.

brandEn · « **Reply #39 on:** June 24, 2013, 05:15:22 pm »

Interesting. So marking things isn't worth the hassle then? How far from being accurate have you seen the stock advancers?

MRieck · « **Reply #40 on:** June 24, 2013, 05:18:16 pm »

Quote from: brandEn on June 24, 2013, 05:15:22 pm

Interesting. So marking things isn't worth the hassle then? How far from being accurate have you seen the stock advancers?

They are pretty close Branden.....certainly close enough for timing (ignition) purposes.

brandEn · « **Reply #41 on:** June 24, 2013, 05:20:04 pm »

Thanks Mike, I just want to be sure and have everything right my first time with this procedure.

MCRider · « **Reply #42 on:** June 24, 2013, 05:23:41 pm »

Quote from: brandEn on June 24, 2013, 05:20:04 pm

Thanks Mike, I just want to be sure and have everything right my first time with this procedure.

Plus you can always play around with ignition timing after its set up. Can't do that with cam timing.

Check your PMs.

bwaller · « **Reply #43 on:** June 24, 2013, 06:28:00 pm »

Sorry brandEn, didn't read your post well, missed the ignition part of the question. I have to mount a wheel to check ignition timing with the Suzuki ignition on my 550 and it's a nuissance. I made some tiny chisel marks to go by and it saves a ton of time.

brandEn · « **Reply #44 on:** June 24, 2013, 06:37:35 pm »

thanks for the chisel idea!

PeWe · « **Reply #45 on:** July 03, 2013, 03:23:57 am »

See my timing experience here: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=120425.0
Check and recheck again to remove your own mistakes... same result several times after each other - probably correct.
The lash in the entire valve train will cause lower lift than expected.

I understood why some professional guys here set the timing with the lash used. Then going for a good lobe center which will determine when the inlet will open and the out ex will follow.

MRieck · « **Reply #46 on:** July 03, 2013, 04:58:19 am »

Quote from: PeWe on July 03, 2013, 03:23:57 am

See my timing experience here: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=120425.0
Check and recheck again to remove your own mistakes... same result several times after each other - probably correct.
The lash in the entire valve train will cause lower lift than expected.

I understood why some professional guys here set the timing with the lash used. Then going for a good lobe center which will determine when the inlet will open and the out ex will follow.

Absolutely.

brandEn · « **Reply #47 on:** July 03, 2013, 05:17:45 am »

That's a great post and thanks for pointing me to it.
You should check out my K4 build thread. I am at the point of timing my cam now.

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Author Topic: Tool recommendations for degreeing a cam needed (Read 9660 times)