Topic: Goldwings ???

[Stev-o]

If it indeed is a good runner with paperwork, sounds like a good deal to me. 

[MoMo]

Agree with Stev-o but 1200 would be more realistic around the Philly area.  A friend has bought two for 700 each, one was a runner the other wound up having a bad clutch, which he sold as is for a profit...Larry

[78 k550]

Only a compression test will tell you the true condition of the motor. At 1500 I would pass. If he thinks he is doing you a favor by dropping the price, he thinks the ball is in his corner. If a compression test out good and all the other things don't bother you I would offer him  grand and walk away.
I bought a complete 77 parts bike for 240.00 titled.
There out ther just don't pull the trigger to fast on the first one you see.
He might of got told everything was original, but if he didn't know he is just passing on bad info the last po gave him.

Paul

[Bankerdanny]

I paid $950 for mine. It ran, but not well. Here it is the day I went to look at it

[dhall57]

Good price on your GW. How much more $$ did it take get it road ready? Your's still had the original motor didn't it

[dhall57]

The original asking price was $2000. He said he could come down to $1500 only because he felt like I would give it a good home and take care of it like he did. If he couldn't get that for it than he would hold on to it. Of course all of this was before knowing of engine and speedo swap.

I let the owner know that his 1975 GL1000 GW did not have the original engine. Sometime in years past someone did a motor swap and threw in a 77 powerplant. He said he had no idea the engine wasn't original and that the person he bought it from said nothing about that and thanked me for telling him. I told him if I bought a first year GW it had to have the original motor and $1500 was to much for it since it didn't and left it at that. Well let the search continue.

[Bankerdanny]

LOL, yes, still has the original motor. 22K miles on the OD when I got it.

I spent a few hundred dollars getting on the road. The Randakk carb kit and video, new spark plug boots, timing belts, thermostat and coolant hoses.  All in I probably spent $1,200-$1,300 getting it back on the road. I also replaced the handlebars, but I used the original bars from my 550 left over from when I put on Euro bars. The stock 550 bars are about 4" lower than the silly semi-apes that Honda fitted to US 'Wings.

Since then I had the seat re-done, replaced a faulty left side control (bad hi/low beam switch), replaced the front tire, fuel pump, and installed a used fuel gauge sender.

So far this year I have spent about $200 on rebuild kits for the front calipers (just finished painting them over the weekend), a set of exhaust manifolds, and a NOS GEREX Multifire electronic ignition. I will probably upgrade to an AGM battery when I install the ignition. The rear tire will get replaced this year (age vs wear).

Cosmetically the bike has always been in really good shape. The paint and tank/sidecover stripes are perfect (well almost perfect, I scratched the right side shelter sidecover when a swapped the bars),  the Honda badges on the shelter need some cleaning up, but are generally good. The muffler is in excellent shape. I took it off after I got the bike in late summer '11 and gave it a good cleaning and repaint only light surface rust and no holes. Since I am replacing the manifolds this Spring I will do the same this year.

The torn and taped seat was really all that was letting the bike down visually, and I had that recovered in Jnauary of last year be a local shop.

I haven't ridden it as much as I intended when i bought because I just can't get the carbs dialed in and last year I was preoccupied with working on the MGB-GT I bought in December 2011. But I have ridden it on several 300-500 mile day trips and that has whet my appetite enough to keep working to sort it out, because if I can I know that I can just pile on the miles.

[dhall57]

Sounds like you've got you a keeper Banker I still want a early Wing 75-77. I was seriously thinking about bringing that 75 home, but finding out it didn't have the original motor changed my mind. I don't want a show bike, just a good, dependable everyday rider like my two CB750's. They aren't show pieces either, but they do have the original engine's and my GW will have to be the same.

[chickenman_26]

The stock 550 bars are about 4" lower than the silly semi-apes that Honda fitted to US 'Wings.

You're right about those bars being silly, and they're uncomfortable. But the '75 and '76 had much lower bars as stock. The ones in your picture first appeared on the '76 LTD and were used on the '77 and later models.

The paint and tank/sidecover stripes are perfect (well almost perfect, I scratched the right side shelter sidecover when a swapped the bars)

Tip - cover the paintwork with an old blanket or fender cover any time you're working above the top shelter. Brake fluid, dropped tools, etc can turn a perfect classic into a shop worn mess.

I haven't ridden it as much as I intended when i bought because I just can't get the carbs dialed in

Even after studying Randakk's video? These carbs are a lot more intricate and complicated than one might suspect. You might consider having someone experienced with those specific carbs sort them out. OTOH, the carbs might not be correct for your model. If not, getting the bike to run perfectly may not be possible.

Stu

[Bankerdanny]

I watched the video multiple times, then played it on my lap top as I did the work. That's why it's been so frustrating not being able to get the idle stable.

[chickenman_26]

I watched the video multiple times, then played it on my lap top as I did the work. That's why it's been so frustrating not being able to get the idle stable.

Your carb work might be perfect. But everything else has to be perfect, or you won't get a stable idle. I'm talking about valve adjustment, sufficient compression pressures that don't vary much between cylinders, ignition timing. Timing belt installation is another big issue that many folks, even dealership techs, screw up. It's really common to see the belt on at least one bank off by one tooth. This will cause a ragged idle that no amount of carb adjustment will cure.

Stu O

[Bankerdanny]

I've been trying to solve it for 18 months.

I have set the valves 3x, checked, double checked the float height, confirmed the timing belts were installed right, synched the carbs 2x. None of it made a material difference. The idle soars to 2,000-2,500, then falls and threatens to die (and sometimes does). It's very difficult to ride in traffic because I can't count on it to not die at a light.

Checking compression is something I do need to do, although with only 22-23k miles I would hope that isn't the issue.

[MoMo]

I've been trying to solve it for 18 months.

I have set the valves 3x, checked, double checked the float height, confirmed the timing belts were installed right, synched the carbs 2x. None of it made a material difference. The idle soars to 2,000-2,500, then falls and threatens to die (and sometimes does). It's very difficult to ride in traffic because I can't count on it to not die at a light.

Checking compression is something I do need to do, although with only 22-23k miles I would hope that isn't the issue.

If you have access also do a leak down test, erratic idle like that can be a leaky valve which sometimes will not show up on a compression test...Larry

[chickenman_26]

I've been trying to solve it for 18 months.

I have set the valves 3x, checked, double checked the float height, confirmed the timing belts were installed right, synched the carbs 2x. None of it made a material difference.

Then stop doing those things. What is it they say about doing the same things over and over and expecting different results? Look somewhere else for the issue. A hanging timing advance can cause this, but I suspect you have issues with carb linkage binding, vacuum leaks at the intake runners....whatever. Check the issues raised by Randakk here. http://www.randakksblog.com/lazy-slow-return-to-idle-or-erratically-high-idle/

Checking compression is something I do need to do, although with only 22-23k miles I would hope that isn't the issue.

Respectfully Danny, hope is not a plan. It's not possible to tune an untuneable engine. Compression check is the second thing you should have done...right after valve adjustment. At least it'll get you out of that "same thing over and over again" loop.

Now having said all of that, and hopefully without writing a book here, let me give you an example of why diagnosing and giving advice on the internet or telephone is a dicey proposition. And this isn't an isolated incident. I see it all the time.

A few months ago, I was contacted repeatedly by phone by an older gentleman and his 40-something son who couldn't get their father-and-son project GL1000 to run well after more than 2 years. He told me it ran great on the highway but wouldn't idle. They'd sent the carbs to one of Randakk's "certified carb rebuilders" and expected that would be the cure. They also swore they'd checked all the same things as you...over and over. Finally, I told them to bring the bike over.

It ran on only 2 cylinders, and badly at that. The reason for that was because they'd attached both condensers to one points wire and both coil grounds to the other points wire.  Ran great on the highway? And their "perfect timing belt installation" turned out to be one tooth off on the left bank (cyls 2 & 4). As for the carbs, the intake runners for cyls #1 and 3 weren't pushed completely onto the carb throats. Naturally, I couldn't see any of this over the phone and had to take their word that it was all good...after multiple adjustments and inspections. So as it turned out, any other suggestions I would have given them over the phone (or Internet) would not have helped and may even have made things worse.

Not saying you've made any of these mistakes. But as with those fellows, I have no idea of your experience level, no way of knowing the status of those checked items for sure, and I certainly don't want to offer anything that would make matters worse.

Stu O

[Bankerdanny]

Well, I am reasonably experienced, but the GL seems more fiddly than other old vehicles I have owned and I am more than willing to concede that the problem could be something I created vs a problem with the actual bike.

I won't have time to do anything with it for another few weeks. But I plan to get it out of storage and down to my sister's garage to give it a thorough going over one more time before I break down and involve a pro. I got a good recommendation from a fellow '77 GL owner at a bike show last summer for a Honda dealer that's close to where I live who sorted his bike for him.

I haven't tested the compression yet partially because I couldn't get my hands on a tester with the right size adapter for the GL spark plug holes. With the basket case 550 to work on now too, plus my 150k+ mile MGB I will probably just buy one to add to my collection of tools.

I do agree that there are limits to the value of checking and re-checking of the same thing.

[dhall57]

Still looking at GW's. Not a very good pic, but the is a 1977 GL1000 that I plan to go look at. Looks to be in pretty good shape and still as the stock pipes . Only thing that concerns me a little is the mileage 78K. But I know if it's been serviced and taken care of over the years those miles mean nothing and it should have a bunch more miles left in her.

[Bankerdanny]

The GL is certainly capable of 6 figure mileage between rebuilds, so a well cared for 78k mile bike is worth a look. That one has been repainted, take a look at the picture of mine above, which still has the original paint and decals on it.

Someone spent some time and/or money to polish the engine bits which is nice, and install a later front fender, although I prefer the original smaller chrome fender.

I like my Vetter, if long distance cruising is the goal you will too.

Overall I would say it has potential, but at about $1,500 or less. Ask aobut when the timing belts were last changed. If it needs ANY carb work at all factor that into the price as it it is not a small job.

'77 Wings are not rare in general, although ready to ride ones are.

[Tugboat]

Gorgeous y'all! Here's mine - 1983 GL1100. Just got it back on the road after cleaning the carbs & replacing the water pump, belts, rear tire, exhaust.



1983 has the best non-spoke wheels, IMO. 1-year only!

[Bankerdanny]

I agree Tug, I wanted a wire wheel bike, but those alloys are my second favorite. If I wanted to build a bagger style Wing that's the version I would look for.

[Xnavylfr]

I had a 77 GW and I found it hard to push back from a parking place but I think most of that was my short legs. I ran for awhile with a Vetter and windshield and then went naked. The Vetter added some weight to the frontend but it didn't affect the handling. Very smooth even cruising at 90. Great bikes   I now have a 75 and a 76 both are in the project mode. They are both Standard models (NAKED WINGS). I have TOO many projects!!!!

Xnavylfr(CHUCK)

http://winstonsalem.craigslist.org/mcy/3722457868.html

[dhall57]

Chuck, How about some pics of your two project Wings

[Terry in Australia]

Here's a pic of my 1986 1200 Interstate. I paid 400 bucks for it with a dead engine just before Christmas, (the PO rode it for 10 years and over 50,000 miles without an oil change) and rather than rebuild the engine I bought a low mileage (27,000) engine from the US, and shoved it in.

I wanted a comfy tourer for doing long trips, and the 'Wang is like a two wheeled lounge suite. It handles OK (it's no Ducati 916, but it glides around corners very well, whereas my last 'Wing, a 1975 model, tended to "wallow" due to the extra weight on those skinny forks and CB derived shocks)  All of the 1200's (to my knowledge) had stator issues, but the engine I bought from the US' stator had been replaced, and it's pumping out a healthy 14.4 volts.

I bought a 1977 model roller for 300 bucks with the intention of rebuilding and installing my original 1200 engine, but apparently it won't fit, so I'll probably just cannibalise the wheels and forks for another project I'm working on. I've had my 'Wang up to 115 MPH and I reckon it'd do well over 120, but it's geared quite high, it actually has an "overdrive" fifth gear, so is only pulling 4K RPM @ 75 MPH. According to the interweb, it's good for 41 miles per US gallon, which is pretty impressive for a 750 pound bike. Cheers, Terry.

     

[Prospect]

. I paid 400 bucks for it with a dead engine just before Christmas, (the PO rode it for 10 years and over 50,000 miles without an oil change)

How does one ride a bike that long and not do an oil change?  Still a great score for $400

[RAFster122s]

I would expect him to only add oil from time to time. The bypass valve in the filter would kick in after a while if so equipped.

Know a guy who would use a turkey baster and suck out old brake fluid from MC on one of his cars and then fill it up. Needless to say he changed his calipers and MC and booster on that car before typically needed as a result of that maintenance technique.

[Terry in Australia]

How does one ride a bike that long and not do an oil change?  Still a great score for $400

The PO was a moron, I'm still chasing electrical shorts due to his dodgy attempts at wiring in some crappy accessories. He was well known to Jeff at Ace Motorcycles (who I bought it from) and Jeff said he rode it into the shop one day with an engine knock, and when Jeff dropped the oil out, it was full of grit, which was the remains of the main and big end bearings.

Jeff still had the oil, which he showed me, and it wasn't just a few shiny spots, it was like chunky liquid aluminum. The filter was completely blocked, and there was only around 2 litres of black, gooey oil in the whole engine, so I'm guessing that he wasn't topping it up on a regular basis either. What impressed me though, is that I did start it so I could move the bike, and with fresh oil it was still mechanically quiet, apart from an obvious knock.

Jeff quoted him around 2-3000 bucks to rebuild it, and the owner told him he could keep the bike. That was on a Friday, and coincidentally I wandered in to buy some tires on Saturday morning, and did the deal as soon as I saw it, because otherwise it was going to a wreckers yard on Monday.

I bought an engine on Ebay from a wrecker in Michigan and Matt, the guy who I dealt with was great, very honest and organised the shipping etc for me. The engine was 600 bucks, shipping to Oz was 590, and then I got raped by the shipping agent here in Melbourne for another 725 bucks. All up, it was just a tad over 2000 by the time I rented a truck to collect it.

I've had to buy lots of cosmetic parts, a seat cover and the plastics that the previous owner had busted, but in total the bike probably only owes me around 3 grand, which is still a good price for one here.

Another member here converted one into a trike recently, and I'm thinking of doing the same thing.  My brother has diebetes and had his right foot amputated last year, but still wants to ride, so I'm thinking about building him a trike out of this one. Cheers, Terry.