Topic: Goldwings ???

[Bankerdanny]

Some of the parts for the GW cross over to cars and are readily available at the local parts store. It's one of the perks of owning a Goldwing.

In addition to the timing belts and coolant hoses, I know the front caliper piston seals from my '77 are the same as an early '80's Accord. Unfortunately seals for 30 year old Accords aren't any more likely to be in stock than seals from a 35 year old Goldwing, and they aren't any cheaper either.

The coolant hoses aren't an exact fit, but they are very close and FAR cheaper than getting them from a Honda MC dealer.

[dhall57]

The timing belts were still available from Honda, but were more than double the price of the Napa belts from Gates. But the Radiator hoses were not. Did a little research on line and found the Napa belt# that's equivalent to the OEM belts. Their is only a couple of belt mfg in the country and Gates Rubber is one of them. Did the same with the hose. Already matched it up to the old hoses, not a perfect match but very close and will work fine once cut for my upper and lower hoses I go OEM when I can, but with the t/belts didn't see a need to. Plus I'll save a little money.

[70CB750]

McMaster Carr carries timing belts too:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#timing-belts/=mk4iej

[dhall57]

Sorry it took so long but Marcia didn't want to get off 

Here some pics only right now, a few details about the bike later

Holy crap, Dwight! Your patience certainly paid off. There are a lot of guys who'd give their left nut to find an unmolested, low mileage '77 in that condition. That bike and the '76 LT D are best of breed (IMHO) of the first gen GL1000. They both look like they're wearing a tuxedo compared to the red, blue, and yellow ones.

Now... think of the Boston bomber manhunt we saw on TV recently. Remember the cops swarming through neighborhoods? The bomber all bloody and hiding in a boat? Well, if you start posting pics of this bike being "bobberized", that would be you! We'll hunt you down like a dog!
 
Stu

Everyone on the forum should know me well enough by my other threads and post, Im a stocker guy. So not to worry Stu. This baby is staying original. Wouldn't dare cut up or modify this survivor.

[dhall57]

Here are 3 of the 4 chrome exhaust covers, the 4th one is in good shape already back on bike after cleaning. Just trying to figure out how they got scraped up so bad, since their under the heads and mtn. on side of pipes as decor over black pipes. Bike has been over on it's right side at some point, but don't see how they would of come into play when bike went over

[78 k550]

There pretty thin. Maybe running up against a curb. I lean mine over to the foot pegs just about every corner I do. I have never hit there. I have scraped the back where you have on yours from compression in a corner.

Paul

[dhall57]

Everything looks good under the hood. Still looks original, nothing butchered. The manual kick lever doesn't seem to have ever been used. Sure looks different than my CB's
     Got parts coming in next week. should be able to get t/belts done, new rad.hoses, thermostat and get everything back together. Than I'll start working on frt and rear brakes and rebuilding calipers. Brakes are dragging bad.
 

[Terry in Australia]

Looking good Dwight, and you would not want to have to operate the kicker on a 'Wing, they were like emergency parachutes, they'll save your arse, but you know they're gonna hurt you.

Randakks sell stainless steel brake pistons for early wings, as apparently the hard chroming on the OEM pistons was rubbish. I'll have to rebuild my 77's brakes when I install my spare 1200 engine, but I might turn up some aluminum pistons and get them hard coated. Cheers, Terry.

[78 k550]

Looking good Dwight, and you would not want to have to operate the kicker on a 'Wing, they were like emergency parachutes, they'll save your arse, but you know they're gonna hurt you.

Randakks sell stainless steel brake pistons for early wings, as apparently the hard chroming on the OEM pistons was rubbish. I'll have to rebuild my 77's brakes when I install my spare 1200 engine, but I might turn up some aluminum pistons and get them hard coated. Cheers, Terry.

I can push my kick starter down with my hand and start my bike. I have not done it in awhile. It was on my engine I took out 125 on 3 and 80 on the other. I have a 78 in there till I get the 75 engine up to par.

Paul

[6adan]

Terry you can make them out of stainless,my cousin made some for me for my 75 GL and they work great.

[Bankerdanny]

Bled my front brakes, installed a new battery and FINALLY got out for my first ride of the year.

[70CB750]

Bled my front brakes, installed a new battery and FINALLY got out for my first ride of the year.

Pretty!

[Bankerdanny]

Thanks. I'm supposed to help a buddy drive a moving truck full of his stuff from Chicago to Albuquerque at the end of May. I am going to try and find room to stuff the Wing in there too and ride it back.

[Stev-o]

Danny ~ how's it running now?

[Bankerdanny]

About the same. The new battery helped a bit, it definitely turns over faster and fired quicker.

But it still surges at idle and sometimes wants to die as if you close the throttle with the clutch in or the trans in neutral as you coast towards a stop.

I picked up a compression tester the other day, so that is on my agenda this weekend along with installing the Gerex Electronic Ignition I bought in February and the upgraded intake rubber clamps I got from Randakks. I have a new rear tire and tube too.

Since I have to pull the advance mechanism as part of the Gerex install I will make sure it is working properly.

With the number of times I have had the carbs off I am confident they are right. I have double checked my valves, and the cam drives are properly positioned.

So if the upgrade to the ignition doesn't do it, and if the compression checks out, then I will be out of options regarding what the issue could be and will have to involve a pro.

[Terry in Australia]

So if the upgrade to the ignition doesn't do it, and if the compression checks out, then I will be out of options regarding what the issue could be and will have to involve a pro.

Good idea Danny, I like prostitutes too. They don't know crap about bikes usually, but they take your mind off your engine problems.

[Bankerdanny]

LOL

[RAFster122s]

Good idea Danny, I like prostitutes too. They don't know crap about bikes usually, but they take your mind off your engine problems.

I think the company of pros like Terry suggests would lead to divorce or other issues. With some companies it could mean job loss as well.
 I guess it could be interesting if it was a Pretty Woman like experience, but I doubt you would have a hollywood fairytale experience.  Then there are some things they cannot cure...

[MoMo]

Good idea Danny, I like prostitutes too. They don't know crap about bikes usually, but they take your mind off your engine problems.

I think the company of pros like Terry suggests would lead to divorce or other issues. With some companies it could mean job loss as well.
 I guess it could be interesting if it was a Pretty Woman like experience, but I doubt you would have a hollywood fairytale experience.  Then there are some things they cannot cure...

yea, David,  it can lead to a real itchy experience...Larry

[Terry in Australia]

Terry you can make them out of stainless,my cousin made some for me for my 75 GL and they work great.

Thanks mate, yep, stainless is good, but I've got some aluminum pistons in my CB750 cafer racer that have been "hard anodised" and they appear to work great, that's why I thought I'd turn some up for the 'wing. Cheers, Terry.

[dhall57]

Well having a bit of trouble with the T/belts on my GL1000. I've come to the conclusion that it must be the Napa belts. I have to fight with these @#$%^ belts to even get them on the sprockets. It takes a lot to make me cuss like a sailor, but I've used words in the last few days that I haven't used in years Being so hard to get the belts on it's hard to keep all the timing marks lined up and not move. I know it shouldn't be that hard to get these belts on. I've had these belts on and off half dozen times(my hands are sore) trying to get marks dead on. All the how to video's on web sites show the belts go on pretty easy and one and in some cases they don't even remove the radiator. This last time the marks were almost dead on, but not quite. So I took them back off, maybe I shouldn't have, but they just seemed to tight. By what I've read on several GW sites Napa #250274 is suppose to be the OEM replacemet belt for the 1977 GL1000. But somethings wrong, it's like their just a fraction to short. Maybe the teeth are cut different. I've always told myself with these old Honda's, if the factory parts are still available go that way because you know they will be right even though in some cases the $$ is double or triple the price of aftermarket. I thought I would save a little money and it bit me. Well two Honda #14400-371-014 belts on order from Servicehonda at $63.66 each. Ouch, but I know they will be right. The local Honda dealer wanted $85.00 per belt. Hope these belts will go on easier and line up and everything will be good.
     Has any other goldwingers here run into the same problem with trying to use non factory belts on there GW?

[78 k550]

Well having a bit of trouble with the T/belts on my GL1000. I've come to the conclusion that it must be the Napa belts. I have to fight with these @#$%^ belts to even get them on the sprockets. It takes a lot to make me cuss like a sailor, but I've used words in the last few days that I haven't used in years Being so hard to get the belts on it's hard to keep all the timing marks lined up and not move. I know it shouldn't be that hard to get these belts on. I've had these belts on and off half dozen times(my hands are sore) trying to get marks dead on. All the how to video's on web sites show the belts go on pretty easy and one and in some cases they don't even remove the radiator. This last time the marks were almost dead on, but not quite. So I took them back off, maybe I shouldn't have, but they just seemed to tight. By what I've read on several GW sites Napa #250274 is suppose to be the OEM replacemet belt for the 1977 GL1000. But somethings wrong, it's like their just a fraction to short. Maybe the teeth are cut different. I've always told myself with these old Honda's, if the factory parts are still available go that way because you know they will be right even though in some cases the $$ is double or triple the price of aftermarket. I thought I would save a little money and it bit me. Well two Honda #14400-371-014 belts on order from Servicehonda at $63.66 each. Ouch, but I know they will be right. The local Honda dealer wanted $85.00 per belt. Hope these belts will go on easier and line up and everything will be good.
     Has any other goldwingers here run into the same problem with trying to use non factory belts on there GW?

Sorry your having such a problem.

I have never had problem with aftermarket belts.

Paul

[Terry in Australia]

+1 Paul, I put new Gates belts on the 27,000 mile engine that's now in my bike, and it was a piece of cake. The timing marks may well have moved slightly as I imagine the old belts would have stretched somewhat in 27 years/97,000 miles, but once it was all together, it fired up straight away and purred like a big black kitten............

[chickenman_26]

If you can't get the Gates belts installed, you won't fare any better with genuine Honda belts. They're dimensionally identical. Regarding them being too tight, they need to be adjusted in the order shown in the manual. Due to valve spring pressure, the belt tension will be different when one piston on either side is on compression than when on exhaust. And that same pressure will rotate the cam wheels out of position unless you hold them still when slipping on the belt. RTFM. It's not the "piece of cake" that many would have you believe, especially for a first timer. I've had several folks trailer their Wing over here to have the belts installed after they tried the DIY thing. Tip -  rotate the engine at least two full revolutions by hand to check for interference before trying to start it. Because if the valve timing is off by more than one tooth on either side, you will bend valves the instant you press the start button.

Stu

[Bankerdanny]

You loosened the tensioner right? They should slip right on. I used the Gates belts when I did my GL a couple years ago and had no issues with them.

I don't recall if this was posted earlier: http://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3544 this is the one that I followed.