Author Topic: Bad ignition switch? Video inside. (Read 6049 times)

Scott S · « **on:** April 14, 2013, 04:10:23 PM »

Bike is a '78 550K.

I was riding home a couple of weeks ago and noticed that my headlight and dash lights would cut out intermittently, just for a brief second.

The next time I tried to ride the bike it was dead as a door nail. Tried changing the main fuse and..... nothing. A little later I flipped on the key again and it was as if nothing happened.

Rode the bike today and could tell it was missing or cutting out at times. Got it home and lost all power again. Luckily, I was already in the garage. Checked for power at the battery, fuse block, etc. Tried a couple of fuses. I was already suspect of the ignition switch or kill switch, so I reached behind the headlight and wiggled the wires that go to the connector block/ignition switch and BINGO! I was able to duplicate the symptoms.

Here's a quick video. You can see the dash lights and headlight flicker at times and even go completely out/back on.

Bad ignition switch?

Do you agree that it's the ignition switch? I kinda hope so, as this was fairly easy to diagnose and will be easy to replace if it's the culprit.

Scott S · « **Reply #1 on:** April 14, 2013, 04:31:47 PM »

Hmmm...I wonder if I could use this and repair mine and keep the key, since it matches my seat lock?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Emgo-Ignition-Switch-Repair-Kit-Honda-CB750C-CB750F-CB650-CB550F-CB550K-CB900C-/310643574207?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4853ccc5bf&vxp=mtr

bwaller · « **Reply #2 on:** April 14, 2013, 04:36:25 PM »

You're very likely right Scott about the ign switch Scott. Often turning the bars will be enough to lose contact. Usually just the switch base is all you need. (if still available) Do yourself a favour though & use OEM, the Emgo replacements are junk.

Scott S · « **Reply #3 on:** April 14, 2013, 04:57:06 PM »

Motogrid lists the switch as NLA. Where might I find a genuine switch or repair plug?

Scott S · « **Reply #4 on:** April 14, 2013, 05:36:46 PM »

And if not, will the Emgo base fit the Honda switch?

bwaller · « **Reply #5 on:** April 14, 2013, 06:48:45 PM »

I tried one and it really did not fit well. It wasn't better than the worn out original so I wouldn't use it. It seems some people do? I found an NOS Honda switch base on e-bay. They're out there but probably hard to find.

HondaMan · « **Reply #6 on:** April 14, 2013, 10:29:03 PM »

If the switch base is loose, you're probably stuck with having to replace the whole switch, as the EMGO lower cover is slightly different (naturally...) and fits loosely again, creating a similar problem. The old Honda on has probably broken off one of the lock tangs, just from age. On the 550 and 400F, the EMGO ones are working OK, but on the 750 (after 1975) they tend to slowly heat up and burn the switch contacts, so those need a little help, like a relay. The contacts seem to be about 10 amps in the EMGO switch for the later bikes, which is about right for the smaller Fours.

Don't overlook the blades in the existing switch: sometimes they are just burned or dirty and a good cleaning, with a dab of grease to keep it clean after, will help.

Scott S · « **Reply #7 on:** April 15, 2013, 03:57:14 AM »

I'm working in a tight spot, behind the headlight, but in the video I'm grabbing the wires from the wiring harness that go to the 5 pin (6 pin?) plug. That plug goes into the ignition switch base.

It feels like the fit is tight, but when I move the wires/harness up and down or wiggle it, I can make the switch lose power.

Heck, for ~$32, it's worth it to me to try the replacement switch. I can always inspect the old one once it's out and keep an eye out for genuine replacement parts.

Edit: Even better, I found one for $21 shipped. Worth a shot.

brewsky · « **Reply #8 on:** April 16, 2013, 03:09:34 AM »

I had to use a small zip tie to keep the base tight against the top of the key housing.

Scott S · « **Reply #9 on:** April 16, 2013, 03:49:26 AM »

You're talking about one of the replacement bases?

brewsky · « **Reply #10 on:** April 16, 2013, 05:13:20 AM »

Probably.......I don't remember for sure.

I got it at a Honda dealer, but it did not replace the key switch portion....only the white botton contact part.

They probably gave me the choice of high $ OEM Honda vs low $ Emgo, and I am kinda cheap anyway.

That was 11 or 12 years ago...still working fine.

Eydugstr · « **Reply #11 on:** April 16, 2013, 05:50:23 PM »

Scott S - went through a similar situation on my bike...If you decide to go Emgo, my advice is to get the entire switch & lock. The reason being that the switch/lock combo is epoxied together from the factory to prevent the bottom white switch piece from pulling away from the lock cylinder.

At one point I tried the replacement Emgo bottom switch, thinking that the plastic tabs on the original Honda one were just worn out...Only to find the brand new Emgo fit looser than the old one.

Scott S · « **Reply #12 on:** April 16, 2013, 06:01:34 PM »

I have a complete assembly on the way.

Scott S · « **Reply #13 on:** April 25, 2013, 12:53:53 PM »

Well, the Emgo switch lasted about 25 miles....

The GF and I took the bikes out for lunch and errands. At the first stop, she told me she was having trouble making it run smoothly and the revs were moving around independent of the throttle.
I told her I'd check it after lunch. Went to fire it up and DEAD as a door knob. Checked fuses, cleaned panel, was wiggling wires around behind the headlight and noticed that the plastic connector part of the brand new switch had come completely out of the metal portion. Stuck it back in and got power.
Luckily, there was a stereo shop across the street and I borrowed a couple of Zip Ties and put it back together.
I guess I'll start searching for a genuine Honda ignition switch.

lucky · « **Reply #14 on:** April 26, 2013, 12:32:18 AM »

I have purchased two ignition switches from EMGO and they both work just fine.

I just have the switch like the early models.

brewsky · « **Reply #15 on:** April 26, 2013, 03:24:37 AM »

here's the fix...one zip tie will do it .......wrapped as shown in red.

LesterPiglet · « **Reply #16 on:** April 26, 2013, 03:26:07 AM »

Aftermarket part, no idea who makes it.

http://www.davidsilverspares.com/CB550K1-1975-USA/part_70571/

Scott S · « **Reply #17 on:** April 26, 2013, 05:39:22 PM »

Lester, I need the style pictured in the post just above yours.

And Brewsky, that's essentially what I did, but I went over the top triple since it was already on the bike. May add another tie and clean up the ends and ride it like that until I come across a genuine Honda one or repair the old one.

LesterPiglet · « **Reply #18 on:** April 26, 2013, 06:56:41 PM »

You mean like this one?

http://www.davidsilverspares.com/CB550F2-SUPER-SPORT-1977/part_62342/

Scott S · « **Reply #19 on:** April 27, 2013, 03:40:08 AM »

That was discussed earlier in this thread. It was mentioned that it didn't fit the genuine switch very well. That's exactly what fell out of my switch and is now zip tied in place.

brewsky · « **Reply #20 on:** April 27, 2013, 03:54:05 AM »

Quote from: Scott S on April 26, 2013, 05:39:22 PM

Lester, I need the style pictured in the post just above yours.

And Brewsky, that's essentially what I did, but I went over the top triple since it was already on the bike. May add another tie and clean up the ends and ride it like that until I come across a genuine Honda one or repair the old one.

Scott,
My zip ties do actually go above the tree also, I should have mentioned that with the photo. (on both my 550 and 750)
They should include one with the switch kit and incorporate it in the instructions!

brewsky · « **Reply #21 on:** April 27, 2013, 04:38:34 AM »

You can't see the zip ties.

I prefer the professional zip tie installation...and screw the mickey mouse goop!

Scott S · « **Reply #22 on:** April 27, 2013, 04:41:29 AM »

Quote from: rotortiller on April 27, 2013, 04:25:15 AM

Why not just glue it in at the sides with goop and screw the mickey mouse looking tie raps?

Why not make a product that doesn't fall apart after 25 miles?

Scott S · « **Reply #23 on:** May 16, 2013, 04:43:20 AM »

After the failure of the Emgo unit (still zip tied together and functioning at the moment), I decided to look into the Honda unit. I didn't find any broken contacts, etc. It was dirty, so I cleaned all the contacts and sanded them all lightly. It went back together as tight as before.
I'm tempted to give it a try. Would dirty contacts cause the symptoms I was having? I can wiggle those same wires with the Emgo unit zip-tied in place and can't make it cut out. Should I leave it be or put the cleaned and inspect stock switch back in?

RAFster122s · « **Reply #24 on:** May 17, 2013, 04:02:10 AM »

A bit of grease on the contacts you sanded to lessen wear...oem switch is better quality but may require maintenance.

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Author Topic: Bad ignition switch? Video inside. (Read 6049 times)