Topic: It Almost Lives! (video+questions)

[heyitsrama]

  howdy ya'll

I got the finished carbs, and new insulators on the bike!
The rubbers that were on the airbox got all messed up (anyone have spares?) I'd rather not run pods if it means performance drop...
At least when it works..... im getting carried away. Anyway here's the video!
Not a valid vimeo URL
Since the video has been made I've done some further troubleshooting.
1. No Spark on #1 or #4.
2. #4 Needs new wires and that L-connector.
3. There is this discharge of electricity from the box that is on the left.
4. All the lights die if I hold the starter down for a few seconds. (Have to pound on the seat to get it back alive)

Anyone have recommendations for spark plugs and the wiring to the harness?
What else should I check?

[Vinhead1957]

Battery and compression. You should be able to kick it over that easy

[heyitsrama]

Battery is new, I think i have equipment to check compression, I'll have to check, I should be looking for 100+psi?

[Tews19]

Battery may be new but I would charge it. It sounds low.

[stickman]

Simple minds ask simple questions.   Didn't see you turn on the choke for a cold start?
Battery definitely down.

[jamesbekman]

Jump it with a car battery and check for spark.  Do not turn the car on, just run jumper cables from the battery to the bike.  Then check for spark at the plugs.  Then check that you have the correct  wires coming from the correct coils to the correct plugs.  Verify all that then put the choke on and add 1/8 throttle and it should start right up.

[iron_worker]

Start with a freshly charged battery as others have said. Your voltage is probably waaayyyy low which makes it pretty tough for the coils to fire properly.

IW

[heyitsrama]

Simple minds ask simple questions.   Didn't see you turn on the choke for a cold start?
Battery definitely down.

Choke was fully open. I'mm try to jump it from my car when I get home today.. I dont think there is any spark. so ill check the cables as well!

[jamesbekman]

Just make sure the car is OFF.  If I remember correctly its the right coil (from the riders perspective) goes to 1-4, the left goes to 2-3... 
If someone can verify that...

[heyitsrama]

Alright, so I've dove a bit deeper in terms of attempting to troubleshoot the issue.
I've checked the battery volt level it seems to be ~ 12.4-12.5 volts. Scorpion AGM battery.
There is no spark on any of the plugs when holding them to the casing, and using the electric starter.
There is no change in voltage when I jam the positive end of the volt meter into a spark wire, and the other end on the negative of the battery.

The starter seems like its not rotating, or doing anything for that matter when the button is depressed.
But why is there no voltage going through the wires? Coils don't go bad?

I was thinking of getting new wires, and splicing/modding the old coils (how to test if coils are functional?)
This would also include new sparks and new plugs.

but should i also be looking at a starter motor?
What about a breaker assembly? Do those shoot out?

Thanks guys for all the help, I just want to hear this thing start up... "single tear drop"

[Mo]

Coil issues are rare indeed. If none of the cylinders are getting spark, then check your points plate. Make sure advance is set correctly, and the gaps are also set correctly. Clean the points also (800 grit sandpaper, acetone, whatever really). Your condensors (2 metal cylinders under the points) could also have gone bad.

Not saying its necessary, but get some new plug caps and spark plugs. For all of them. NGK brand is what I use and the entire set was under $15 shipped to my door. Trim a tiny bit (1/4 inch) off of the existing coil wires if the connection doesn't look solid.

You didn't mention anything about having adjust the valves/tappets. This is also a must along with a proper adjustment of the cam chain.

Check fuel to the carbs. Proper fuel line routing (never let the fuel lines go upwards, let them at least be horizontal. You want downwards flow) and ensure the petcock is clean and the filter is unclogged. Fuel issue can be easily checked by squirting some starter fluid into the carbs white the airbox is off. If it starts on the starter fluid, and then dies quickly, you know the bike is starving for fuel.

SO, assuming you have the carbs properly cleaned (no blocked jets, etc) and you've done the proper adjustments, and you are getting spark you should be able to fire up.

[heyitsrama]

Well I was considering getting new sparks and plugs anyway, I just don't know if I should get splicers w/ new cables, just get new plugs and use old cables, or just new everything (coils too). I found this set at Dime City, but i dont know what the Ohm. rating on the plugs are measured at, there were sets sold on ebay that have NGK plugs, and correct copper wire as well.

When looking at the condensers, what should my attention be at? Is there some voltage I can measure? Will they look physically damaged?

The fuel system should be okay, I just rebuilt the petcock, I'll check the filter in there and see if there is anything caught in it. All the fuel line goes downward into the t-connectors, If i open the overflow bolts some fuel should pour out?

EDIT:

I have not done anywork to the motor yet, I wanted to get this thing up and running, to see if it will before I do that. I need to run to my uncles house and get the compression gauge. dam tools are scattered everywhere....
hopefully there is solid compression in each cylinder...

[K3Owner]

Hi hey...

Don't have your DVM attempt to measure 15KV at the plug caps when it has a max of about 1000V. Your DVM will immediately be toast. I got tired of my DVM so tested my high voltage supply at my microwave. The supply was good so I got to get a new DVM (I needed an excuse).

So, you still have a spark issue. Did you remove the yellow and blue wires from the points and test the spark? With the wires lifted, turn on the ignition and check each colored end. Both blue and yellow should be near 12 V. If not, troubleshoot at the coil. It's either not getting 12V on the black lead or the yellow/blue wire is open from the coil. If OK, put a plug base on the block to ground it, turn on the ignition with good battery voltage and then ground the proper wire for the plug tested onto the points plate itself. This charges the coil. Lift the wire from ground and you should get a spark. Do this for the other circuit as well. 1/4 and 2/3. No spark points to bad plug insulator, bad plug(s) or bad coil. You have at least eliminated the points and condensors from the test. You can also test the start without the condensors if need be. It's only for a short period.