Topic: running rich

[neilc]

i am running way to rich,pulled my plugs for fouling and they were black,i am going to pull the carbs and rebuild anyway,with my short staraight pipes and pod filters when i replace the needles,raise or lower the needle to reduce rich,also am going to bench sync the slides as described in a earlier post,back all height screws to 1 thread and adj as thread says.

[Duanob]

You will want to lower your needle (raise the clip) to lean it up. Before doing that I would clean the needles with 0000 steel wool and make sure the emulsion tubes (needle jets) where the needles close in to are clean as well. If it still runs rich then start moving the needles one clip position at a time.

[neilc]

thanks,i have all new rebuild parts,so as i replace i want to adjust,hopefully only once,still a little confused on slide height,do i want a gap or not,i think after i replace the needles i will adjust so the all come down at the same time and i am just confused as what size gap to set them all at,but i did this 30 years ago so hopefully it will come back to me,i dont have a manual so i am counting on you guys

[bjbuchanan]

For the slide height if you want to bench sync use the smallest drill bit you have. The slide height once a true sync is done I can almost guarantee will be even lower than using a baby drill bit

I use 1/16th and just make sure I have the only like 2 threads showing at the top of the adjuster nut. It will get the bike running and not too far out

As far as replacement parts go I would reuse any of your good brass parts. I have seen threads, and from my own personal experience as well the new brass stuff kinda sucks. I had an issue where the air screws would back out and it was due to the spring not being dressed up and too short. Also you will probably notice that a new slide needle will have weird steps from making it, it won't be smooth like the stock stuff

[neilc]

i used originally a variable what we call a pipe cleaner tool its just a bunch of metal starnads in a case,i used one hat was probably about .030 thick to adjust them all but my number 4 carb was like closed compared to the other 3,so i adjusted to the same,but had like 5 threads on the top screw compared to like 2 with the other 3,you are right though since i used new needle jets i have had problems,so i am concerned about using the rest of the rebuild kit parts. wish i had left things alone

[bjbuchanan]

Not every kit has issues but I had real issues with the air screws. For the most part everything seemed fine but the needles were ridiculous. You look at a stock one and it is a smooth taper and the keyster one has like 200 steps, it just seems crazy to me that it would seem satisfactory to send out.

The threads on top aren't an end all be all kinda thing but it is a good guide. If they are at the same heights so be it.

[neilc]

start teardown of carbs tomorrow again,for fouling pug issue as i stated,every time though when i set carbs 3 and 4 to 26mm they overflow (seems like they like 22mm),then i have to bend the tang up and that works,i hate frigin carbs,i am fouling plugs like as if rich but when the bike runs its like its starving for gas, i have no manual so its by usefull threads from here i am going with,,thanks Neil

[bjbuchanan]

http://www.hondachopper.com/garage/carb_specs/carb_specs.html

http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycle/text/specs.html

First link has only 750 info plus pics to show where the carb numbers are.

2nd is all types of hondas but useful

Look up your specific numbers and use that info from the charts to set the baseline for your carbs.

FLOATS   http://www.hondachopper.com/garage/carb_info/float_levels/float_levels.html

Some stuff to think about. Most measure from the area where the float gasket has that about 1 inch recessed portion along the body walls. I'm not sure quite how to phrase it right but it is the same place on both sides of the carb, measure from there unless you have later PD carbs, which you don't.

Maybe you have the littlest bit of crud up in your needle seat and that means fuel flow isn't shutting off properly. I had a tiny piece of fuel line in there that had my #3 overflowing lightly

AFter searching for like 10 mins for a link I knew existed atleast somewhere I found it. This is a super extensive walkthrough of our carbs that, short of being literally blind, will have your carbs tip top

http://www.salocal.com/sohc/tech/carb/carb.htm

[neilc]

thanks awesome page and help