"Newly welded top tree". i suspect some expansion occurred during the tig welding and it was filled with rod, rendering oversize ID.
The top tree was clamped to a 35mm solid rod and have still a 35mm inner diameter. So that shouldn't be the case...
On our 71 and 72,s at speed the lower forklegs often rocked back and forth, if there is a lot of wear the fork will get sloppy., If wheel is off you can check this by pulling and pushing lower fork leg..while handlebars are straight..
Did you mean that you could rotate the steel forktube, even after you had clamped the triple trees?
Ill try to check that, but the 100 km I put on it after I bought it and before the winter came I didn't really feel these tendencies. But def worth checking.
No the upper forks are solid.
I saw the same thing dream750 did...in the 2nd video it looks like the fender brackets are not tight or missing the bolts. Should be 2 each side. That will help to secure both lower fork legs.
yes the front fender stabilices the legs..you have to mount all stuff to get a real test resultat...thats why its only cafes who drive witaut frontfender..and vith car tires.. 
That's correct I mounted the last fender bolt and the outcome is pretty much the same. A little bit stiffer as I calculated but it's still quite flexible. hmmm..
+1 on the loose front fender...............but before you tighten it..............prop the motor or frame to lift the bike to take all weight off of the front forks........then loosen everything from the top-tree to the axle and start the process as stated in the shop-manual. Do you have the 'D'-washers for the top-tree? If not they are a must. I assume you have properly spaced the speedo-drive to accommodate the double-disk. Start the assembly by snugging the axle as shown.....then the tighten the fender-brace and final tighten the axle. Rotate the wheel to check clearance and centering. If all is good at the wheel, lower the prop so the wheel is on the floor and check the top of the fork-tubes for proper position in the top-tree and tighten the LOWER-tree to 20-ft.lbs. Then snug the top tree to no more than 12-lbs.
This looks like an interesting project. Let us know how it turns out.
Ill see what I can do. I don't have the ability to lift the bike as suggested. And as I mentionded before, double disc is a pain in the ass to install . But if that's what it takes, sure Im up for the task.
I have the D-washer installed on both sides, Some how PO still managed to brake the top tree
I have a Project thread where you can read about my slow progress, thanks !
How much should I tighten them ? Since my top tree is newly welded after the PO broke it I dont know how much I dare to tighten it. And the under tree is "tight" is there any chance you trash the threads ? I mean I can still thread the bolts a little more with some force.... is there any torque table ? I cant find in the shop manual
Do yourself a favor and stop wrenching until you bought a torque wrench in the proper range and downloaded the workshop manual from the first thread in this forum.
The numbers are all there. And read about the "D-shaped washers" for the tripple tree that you will break again, if you don't put them back in.
Cheers
Carsten
The only thing I don't have is a torque wrench and Ill probably have to buy one. That doesn't solve the problem though. But thanks for the input Carsten.
