Topic: Is this normal ? Is my front wheel loose ? HELP !

[Viktor.J]

This sure has us guessing all sorts of things that would cause this. I have to admit that looks like a pretty dang good weld. But it has to be strong enough for you to torque it to the OEM specs and not worry about it. Just be sure you put that D washer back in the clamp space. If you get that torqued you should be able to move to another idea as long as the tree clamp size is the same as before the break. And just double checking as I did not see it mentioned before, you did put the axle spacer back in there, right?

What do you mean by axle spacer ? I've checked if the wheel is moving sideways but It didn't.

If all the bolts are tight as you claim, then lift the gators and make another video showing the area where the upper tubes slide into the lowers.  If there is movement there that is your answer.

If no movement then take apart the whole axle assembly and lay it out for us to see.  Showing all the components as they are assembled on the axle.  Just like the exploded diagram in the manual

The bike is at a shop for now for carb tuning and sync. He will also take a check at the front fork. If it's inte the same way as before Ill provide you with a new picture.


As I asked before, what stops the upper forks from rotating within the lower forks  ?

[70CB750]

Upper forks are hold in the bracket and lower forks have the wheel axle.

[Xnavylfr]

NOTHING!!  If you remove the axle/wheel you can rotate the lower legs around the upper tubes(on a CB750).



Xnavylfr(CHUCK)

[Viktor.J]

As I thought and understood, but wanted to be clear

So basically, If the top tree is tight ( no movement, torque specs) and the front axle is tight (no movement, torque specs and correct procedure) then it's "normal" ?
I mean the upper forkes are secured with a bolt through the botom of the lower forks and that's all it is right ?

This might be a stupid question but I don't really remember but whats the inner diameter on the lower forks ?
The upper forks contains the springs internal, and have a outer diameter of 35mm.

[JimJamerino]

Watching your videos, I think there's a finite number of places movement like that could come from. 

I know you've already sent it to the shop, but I would have taken the whole front end apart to figure it out.  When reassembling, I'd make sure the trees were tight to the steering head first, with no slop in movement.  Then attach just the fork tubes, no lower legs.  With the tubes tightened in both trees, it should all be a solid assembly, with absolutely minimal to no movement, wiggle, slack or anything.  If possible, set the legs on the ground and try turning the bars to replicate the movement you're seeing in your videos.  I think that would clear up any question about gaps in the welded tree.  Then reinstall the lowers and see if maybe you have a lower that is too big or otherwise worn out, again setting it down to see if you can wiggle it.

From there, I'd then check the wheel assembly. Again, a complete disassembly of the hub to make 100% certain there aren't worn bearings or a warped axle or some other irregularity.  After that, the only thing that's left is the connection between the wheel and the legs, as well as reattaching the fender. 

The wiggle is coming from somewhere... I'm no pro, but that's how I would go about finding it.

[Viktor.J]

Well...

I took the front forks apart and there's nothing in there that's wrongly installed or even could be wrongly installed and causing this. Simply, there's nothing inside of the lower forks preventing this kind of movement.

I ended up torquing everything, top and lower tree, fender, caliper brackets, wheel axel nuts....... riding for a bit, then re-torqued. This worked great. I also belive (even though it scares me) that the loose front fender had a small part. This also shows the need for a forkbrace 

[shinyribs]

I would not let the welded top clamp concern you in this situation. Even if you were to remove the top clamp all together it would not flex to the degree that is visible in the video.

I'm inclined to think the the slider bushings (inside the fork lowers)may be the culprit. Either missing,extremely worn or possibly,they accidentally  became dislodged somehow during the seal replacement.

If it were me,I pull each fork leg off the bike and see how tight the sliders fit on the tubes. See if you can ''bend'' them.Hold the tube tightly to your work bench and then see how much you can get the slider to bend,or flex, just using your hands. Due to the age of the bike there is most likely some slack that will be present,but to wobble like that is a sign of excessive slack. Just my $0.02

I'd strongly suggest not to ride the bike until you get it figured out,though.

[Viktor.J]

Read The last post, thanks ! 

[shinyribs]

I did read your last post bud. What concerned me about it was the fact that you stated:''there's nothing in there that's wrongly installed or even could be wrongly installed and causing this. Simply, there's nothing inside of the lower forks preventing this kind of movement.''

Actually,there is. Your slider bushings. When you mentioned ''there's nothing inside of the lower forks preventing this kind of movement.'' I wondered if you saw your bushing or not. They do limit this kind of movement,and worn or missing ones could cause your issue. With the amount of flex shown in the video there is no way that reinstalling the front fender corrected that. Many guys ride without that fender and do not have that issue. I myself have logged several thousand miles without a front fender and can promise you that it will not cause your issue.

I guess my question now is what did you find?

[Viktor.J]

I did read your last post bud. What concerned me about it was the fact that you stated:''there's nothing in there that's wrongly installed or even could be wrongly installed and causing this. Simply, there's nothing inside of the lower forks preventing this kind of movement.''

Actually,there is. Your slider bushings. When you mentioned ''there's nothing inside of the lower forks preventing this kind of movement.'' I wondered if you saw your bushing or not. They do limit this kind of movement,and worn or missing ones could cause your issue. With the amount of flex shown in the video there is no way that reinstalling the front fender corrected that. Many guys ride without that fender and do not have that issue. I myself have logged several thousand miles without a front fender and can promise you that it will not cause your issue.

I guess my question now is what did you find?

The bushing doesn't prevent lower forks from rotating around the inner tubes. Its the wheel and the fender that does.
 
As I stated in the post above I took the front apart and couldn't find anything missing. I checked if the bushing were worn, it was not. 'By applying a pressure on the lower forks bolts  without wheel or brakes on as they sat in the top trees and there wasn't much of a play. I would say these bushing prevent a moving normal to the fork axis-line, but Im sure they don't prevent a rotation.

TO be clear, the lower forks where rotating around the inner tubes. Nothing within the lower forks prevents this. This means that the only thing that prevent's this kind of movement is the connections between the two forks - wheel axle and fender.

[shinyribs]

Oh,I see now! I thought you sliders were wobbling on the tubes. I didn't realize they were just rotating.

Thanks for clearing that up. I wasn't trying to be pushy,I just see some guys go with the ''that's good enough'' cure sometimes. I just don't to see anybody get hurt.
 

[Viktor.J]

Oh,I see now! I thought you sliders were wobbling on the tubes. I didn't realize they were just rotating.

Thanks for clearing that up. I wasn't trying to be pushy,I just see some guys go with the ''that's good enough'' cure sometimes. I just don't to see anybody get hurt.

That's alright, we have to take care of each others 

- * Singing Kumbaya* -