Topic: 75 cb400f

[thestratomaster]

So another new discovery.  I thought the master cylinder was just leaking out of the cap area, but it is infact leaking at the banjo and by the lever.  Rebuild kit is my only real option here eh?

[MoMo]

It is probably leaking through the seals and then out the end.  Rebuild kit or check David Silver, if my memory serves me well they have a new one for not much more than the rebuild kit...Larry

[thestratomaster]

It is probably leaking through the seals and then out the end.  Rebuild kit or check David Silver, if my memory serves me well they have a new one for not much more than the rebuild kit...Larry

I'll have to dig around and see if I can find any more information on the new one and see what people think of the quality.  I don't mind rebuilding my existing one, but for the price, it wouldn't be worth it. 

Last night I ran the engine again.  I think the chain is definitely loose.  I will be tracking down a new chain and replacement tensioner assembly and just bite the bullet and split the cases and fix it right. 

On another note though, the engine is still hard to start, it takes a solid couple of seconds with the starter on and pumping the throttle a little.  Could it just not be getting fuel?  The idle sat perfect at 1200 rpm with no issues though once the choke was off!

[oldbob]

It is probably leaking through the seals and then out the end.  Rebuild kit or check David Silver, if my memory serves me well they have a new one for not much more than the rebuild kit...Larry

I'll have to dig around and see if I can find any more information on the new one and see what people think of the quality.  I don't mind rebuilding my existing one, but for the price, it wouldn't be worth it.

I bought the new m/c from DSS and I like it. It's not a perfect match for the original part, but it's close enough for me.

Bob

[thestratomaster]

It is probably leaking through the seals and then out the end.  Rebuild kit or check David Silver, if my memory serves me well they have a new one for not much more than the rebuild kit...Larry

I'll have to dig around and see if I can find any more information on the new one and see what people think of the quality.  I don't mind rebuilding my existing one, but for the price, it wouldn't be worth it.

I bought the new m/c from DSS and I like it. It's not a perfect match for the original part, but it's close enough for me.

Bob

Is it the same physical size and will the stock cap fit on it?

[oldbob]

It is the same physical size. I *think* that the stock cap will fit. You could email DSS to make that determination.

Bob

[thestratomaster]

Doesn't look bad on there.  I'll have to weigh some options. 

I went to run her today and she won't turn over.  Starter just goes but nothing happens.  Last time I ran it, the engine revs went down steadily and died, but I attributed that to having no gas in the tank.

I'm wondering if it's not my carb float height.  They are on a severe angle up towards the end away from the pin.  I measured the close side and it was exactly 22-23mm so I just assumed they were right.  Should they be mostly flat the whole way across?

[MoMo]

Doesn't look bad on there.  I'll have to weigh some options. 

I went to run her today and she won't turn over.  Starter just goes but nothing happens.  Last time I ran it, the engine revs went down steadily and died, but I attributed that to having no gas in the tank.

I'm wondering if it's not my carb float height.  They are on a severe angle up towards the end away from the pin.  I measured the close side and it was exactly 22-23mm so I just assumed they were right.  Should they be mostly flat the whole way across?

You better do a compression test.   A photo of the carbs would help...Larry

[davidtime]

It is the same physical size. I *think* that the stock cap will fit. You could email DSS to make that determination.

Bob

What bars are these?

[thestratomaster]

Doesn't look bad on there.  I'll have to weigh some options. 

I went to run her today and she won't turn over.  Starter just goes but nothing happens.  Last time I ran it, the engine revs went down steadily and died, but I attributed that to having no gas in the tank.

I'm wondering if it's not my carb float height.  They are on a severe angle up towards the end away from the pin.  I measured the close side and it was exactly 22-23mm so I just assumed they were right.  Should they be mostly flat the whole way across?

You better do a compression test.   A photo of the carbs would help...Larry

I plan to at some point, it runs so well once it's warmed up and in the revs though, so I'd find it hard to believe that it's very low.  I did somewhat solve the problem though.  My battery was only at 11 volts, which I would think would start it, but I put it on the charger for a bit and got it up a little over 12 and it started essentially right up. 

I'm gonna grab a pic up the plugs tomorrow and I guess of the carbs too to see what you guys think.

[thestratomaster]

Ok, so I snapped a few pics of the plugs. I'll put them up tonight 1 is fairly rich it looks, 2 and 3 are lean, and 4 looks spot on.  2, 3, and 4 make sense to me because the boots on 2 and 3 to the airbox won't stay on and 4 is on perfect.  1 is on what seems like the same exact way as 4 and it is rich.  Pilot screws are all the same, perhaps I'll just have to tinker with them.  I'll have to investigate some more I guess.

In other news, I think I have a charging problem.  I decided to check the battery before I went out riding.  11.6 volts.  I charged it back up past 12 v yesterday before I rode for 15 or so miles, and then it dropped about a full volt after riding and sitting overnight. I rode it over to a friends place about 2 miles from my garage today, and it had no juice when I went to get back on it after 10 minutes. 

I kick started it 3rd kick when it was cold today and the same after the starter made the "dead battery" sound.  I tried the starter for maybe half a second and noticed it wasn't gonna go, so I kicked it over instead.  I rode it for about 4 more miles and then went home to check the voltage.  10.6 volts. 

Is it possible that the 5 or 6 miles today just isn't enough to recharge from starting?  The kick starter doesn't seem to me like it would draw any power, at least not like the starter would, so I'm wondering why after kick starting it and riding it, it would be down on voltage. 

It also didn't seem like it had lost any power and once it was running, again ran like "normal"

[MoMo]

A short ride will not recharge the battery.  You need a slow charger(2 amps per hour which would take 4 to six hours).  Reading should be 12.6 volts or so after a full charge.  Start the bike, then put your meter across the battery terminals,  voltage should read at least 14v when revved past 3000 rpm.  If it doesn't go up, you havea charging problem.  Do that then post the results...Larry

[thestratomaster]

A short ride will not recharge the battery.  You need a slow charger(2 amps per hour which would take 4 to six hours).  Reading should be 12.6 volts or so after a full charge.  Start the bike, then put your meter across the battery terminals,  voltage should read at least 14v when revved past 3000 rpm.  If it doesn't go up, you havea charging problem.  Do that then post the results...Larry

That makes sense.  I do have it on a 2 amp charge now.  It was reading 12.6 when it was full and then dropping a volt everytime I rode it hah.  I didn't even think to test it while it's running.  I'll check that tomorrow.  I guess I'll have to just have to ride it more when I ride it!

[MoMo]

From your description riding it more is going to make it go dead faster. Check the charging voltage before you ride...Larry

[thestratomaster]

From your description riding it more is going to make it go dead faster. Check the charging voltage before you ride...Larry

I only meant that to apply if there is no problem with the charging voltage when the bike is running.

[thestratomaster]

I didn't have a chance to run it today as I was messing with the front brakes for a lot of the night.  I did however fully charge it (12.6 v) and come back a couple hours later and notice that it is now 12.04 v.  Something seems to be draining the battery just sitting there.  I suspect that it will be lower still in the morning. 

Anyways, here's the plugs in order of 1-4...





So after determining that the front brake essentially does not work at all, I decided to tear it apart today and see what kind of parts I needed to order.  I popped the piston out using the brake pressure from the master cylinder.  No scary explosions like with compressed air or a grease gun, just slowly slid right out.  I was really excited to see almost no pitting on one side of the piston...


And then I saw the other side.  Thinking I should get a replacement.  Agreed? Are all sohc 4 calipers close to the same? Could I grab a piston from a different bike? Just thinking they may be more abundant and could score a better deal.


This guy dropped out from between the pad and the piston.  Is it just a spacer for the pad?  It's pretty destroyed and has a significant bend in it.


The inside of the caliper is in decent shape other than where the pad sat.  A couple of brake fluid stains where the piston slides, but I think some brake parts cleaner will get it off.



The fixed pad side made quite a mess.  I'm going to sand blast and powder coat everything next week sometime, and hopefully some new parts will be here around the same time.


Does anyone have a source for this pivot bolt? And/or how to get it out of this piece?  It's pretty well stuck.  I got the other piece off relatively easily, but this portion does not want to budge.



Does anyone know where I can find some stainless bolts for holding the caliper halfs together? The ones that came out are pretty shot.

[Powderman]

On the pivot pin, soak it for a day in PB Blaster or equivalent and then take a propane torch and heat up the aluminum around it and it should free up. I checked all my usual parts suppliers and it is an obsolete part. I can check and see if the one I took off mine is still good and usable if you want it. Once you get that one out it may be salvageable after cleaning and greasing it back up. Babbittsonline.com has the piston, but it's $80. The ring looks like it is part of the back of the piston in the microfiche. The caliper bolts are available there also, $5.20 each.

http://www.hondapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/hon/50bff268f87002341cac2be8/front-brake-caliper-disc

[Clinto]

search the forum for "phenolic" and you'll find the member that sells phenolic pistons for your caliper (pretty sure he makes them for all models). I think it's around $40 for one. Cheaper and much lighter than an OEM piston

[MoMo]

search the forum for "phenolic" and you'll find the member that sells phenolic pistons for your caliper (pretty sure he makes them for all models). I think it's around $40 for one. Cheaper and much lighter than an OEM piston

it is kevin400f in Texas if he is still active and selling.  I bought from him, good product with good service...Larry

[Owned]

...Charlie's Place carry a stainless piston.  I used their product for my 350 and 400f proj.

http://charlies-place.com/PAGES/Store/store_brake_pistons.html

[thestratomaster]

I shot a PM to Kevin who makes the phenolic pistons.  Hopefully he has some still, otherwise I found a stainless unit on ebay I liked, or I'll just grab the DSS one.

[thestratomaster]

Kevin got back to me and said he no longer makes them.  I guess I'll be buying a stainless one from DSS. 

What are your guys thoughts on braided lines?  For the extra $25 they cost from slingshot I'm thinking about giving them a try.  I think I've also decided that I'm just going to buy the new master cylinder as well instead of messing around with rebuilding mine. 

[Islandstar]

Keeping an eye on this coz I jus broke my cam tensioner bolt and it seems like my mc is leaking at the banjo bolt too!!!! AARRGGHH!!!!!

[MoMo]

Kevin got back to me and said he no longer makes them.  I guess I'll be buying a stainless one from DSS. 

What are your guys thoughts on braided lines?  For the extra $25 they cost from slingshot I'm thinking about giving them a try.  I think I've also decided that I'm just going to buy the new master cylinder as well instead of messing around with rebuilding mine. 

From what I remember the new m/c from DSS does not cost much more than a rebuild kit, and the stainless lines from Slingshot are worth the money.  I use them...Larry

[thestratomaster]

I decided to go with slingshots rubber ones after reading a lot of horror stories about stainless lines in general.  That and there's other things that need to be fixed before I start upgrading certain things.

Powder coated the caliper bodies today and polished the pivot lever assembly.  Ordered a bunch of new parts from DSS so hopefully they make it to me by the weekend.  I decided on just getting the new master cylinder so that I don't have to mess around with the old one.

Made progress on the charging issue today.  Seems like it's the stator to me.  After sitting for a week or so, the battery rested at 11.96 volts.  Turned the bike over and it's 11.3 volts while it's running, and after shutting it off goes back up to 11.6.  To me that's saying that the coils etc. are drawing power and the stator is functioning how it should to offset the draw.  Does that make sense?