Topic: First post, pics (A LOT) and a few questions to ask ('73 CB500 Four)

[EDU]

Interesting thread! Love that you take pics, too! I have a '71 CB500F that I've been woking on over the last year and I'll need to do just about everything you seem to need there. I got sidetracked with racing but since I broke my collarbone and injured my knee in a crash, I have some nice recovery time to invest on the CB!

Keep up the good work!

[dave500]

check the end float on the basket,how far does it push and pull against that circlip?you need it to be no more than about .1mm or around four thou,you can use shims to pack it if need be which are hard to find,your basket looks ok and wont need filing,replace the seal that the rod passes through aswell.

[nIkbot]

Interesting thread! Love that you take pics

Pictures make it easier for me, also it's in hopes it'l help others down the line.

check the end float on the basket,how far does it push and pull against that circlip?you need it to be no more than about .1mm or around four thou,you can use shims to pack it if need be which are hard to find,your basket looks ok and wont need filing,replace the seal that the rod passes through aswell.

I'm sorry, I don't know what part you mean? The whole basket and parts inside have less than  .3mm push/pull movement to it before they touch the ring clip at the end of the rod.

[dave500]

yep the whole basket and its guts,ok thats about 1/3 of a mm by your eye so its slightly sloppy,not real bad,it should be around 1/10 of a mm,ive seen them slop up to a full mm,those shims come in three sizes if you can find them,heres some part numbers.

90458-323-010 = .1mm
90459-323-010 = .3mm
90460-323-010 - .5mm

[nIkbot]

yep the whole basket and its guts,ok thats about 1/3 of a mm by your eye so its slightly sloppy,not real bad,it should be around 1/10 of a mm,ive seen them slop up to a full mm,those shims come in three sizes if you can find them,heres some part numbers.

90458-323-010 = .1mm
90459-323-010 = .3mm
90460-323-010 - .5mm

Welp.... doesn't look like I am finding those online.. any tips at suitable substitutes?
Same goes for that pushrod it seems... Seen a few posts suggest using 5/16 round stock alum or steel?  Any weight to these claims?


Took the basket off. There is zero play on the main shaft and all the teeth look pristine. Lemme know if anything looks out of place.




Also, any tips on how to get all of that cruddy seal off? It's on there quite good..

[dave500]

youll have to carefully elbow grease it of with a nice scraper,how much lash between the large gear and the basket via those rivetts?

[nIkbot]

youll have to carefully elbow grease it of with a nice scraper,how much lash between the large gear and the basket via those rivetts?

Basket is solid as a rock, nothing was jiggling around.

[nIkbot]

90458-323-010 = .1mm
90459-323-010 = .3mm
90460-323-010 - .5mm

Found these from a site I've seen for the other project.

http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/928-78-82/309-00.php?pn=1002720852#a

Might be the best available option, seeing how every single site/shop I contact says they can't obtain the spacers anymore..

Also picked up a couple bars of 5/16th round stock to make some clutch rods, as they too seem impossible to find OEM.
I'll get started on these soon.


Got bored waiting for parts and responses

[dave500]

your basket sounds good,ive never seen a perfect one,always a little lash or slack.

[nIkbot]

Apply 1 elbow grease







Is there a trick to removing grips? Or do I just have to cut them?





Also, what is the EXACT length of the clutch push rod?  10-1/8" (257.176MM) ?

[dave500]

if your going to renew your grips just carefully cut them,,or try compressed air under them and they might "float off"?scrap those cruddy stock types and get some modern slim ones and use bar end plugs,,good work with the elbow grease,,a very carefully applied soft flame can help to burn the gasket rubbish of as you scrape,,use caution though,,dont heat the alloy enough to melt or distort it.

[Leafshutter]

Hi nIkbot

Regarding the pushrod the exact measurements are 255mm long and with a diameter of 8 mm

Had to order a replacement for my CB500 -73 and measured the new before putting it in

Good luck with your project!

[nIkbot]

if your going to renew your grips just carefully cut them,,or try compressed air under them and they might "float off"?scrap those cruddy stock types and get some modern slim ones and use bar end plugs,,good work with the elbow grease,,a very carefully applied soft flame can help to burn the gasket rubbish of as you scrape,,use caution though,,dont heat the alloy enough to melt or distort it.

Yeah, it seems a very soft case, I was weary with the heat gun.
I like the ugly stock grips! 
Plus the whole reasion I ask was to ditch the ugly US bars and get the Euro ones on and save the throttle sleeve. Was worried of cutting them up.

255mm long and with a diameter of 8 mm

Thank you Leaf!
 Do you guys think it would be wise to err on the long side to save the lifter sleeve a lil?

[Fritz]

I like the ugly stock grips! 
Plus the whole reasion I ask was to ditch the ugly US bars and get the Euro ones on and save the throttle sleeve. Was worried of cutting them up.

Ethanol will make them slip off the sleeve and bar in no time.

[nIkbot]

Speak of the devil....





Goofy


To sexy as all get out in 2.2flat


So excited.



Now for some questions.

How do you replace the clutch rod seal?



And is there a trick for getting the stand spring on?




Thanks for the tip Fritz! Soon as I can get that off I'll have a set of US bars to part with.

[malcolmgb]

For the stand spring put washers/coins between coils to lengthen spring, once it is in place pull stand down and washers should fall out.

[nIkbot]

For the stand spring put washers/coins between coils to lengthen spring, once it is in place pull stand down and washers should fall out.

I can't believe i forgot that trick.... so caught up in new bars haha.


Gonna have to go get nickles or quarters... pennies didn't do it.

[dave500]

if you like the ugly stock grips youve never ridden with them,they are #$%*ing crap man!they go hard like old tyres and are too large in their diameter.

[LesterPiglet]

I attach the sidestand spring before inserting the bolt.

[dave500]

i use muscles.

[nIkbot]

i use muscles.

I don't yet have burly old timer musckles.
So I had to rely on about $5.75 worth of quarters 




Finaly got a fine enough paint brush to finish off the Tach/spedo



now gotta figure out that rod oil seal

[nIkbot]

Cut all the blanks for the clutch rod(s)
Now I just have to practice grinding down the one side to a semi-sphere, then trim and quench.




Do I need to try and figure out replicating those grooves? Or will it be okay just leaving it smooth?




Got the gauges on, happy with the paint and setting the correct mileage

[dergs713]

You ever get the whole clutch issue fixed. I'm in the same boat...
Matt

[nIkbot]

You ever get the whole clutch issue fixed. I'm in the same boat...
Matt

Yes. Been quite busy with the bike.


I wound up biting the bullet and getting an used OEM rod because there where inadequate measurements online.

So I present, a picture of Unicorns for others in the future to fabricate their own.



Non-chicken scratch translation: 5/16th in round stock.
Pushrod - Length overall 256 mm, Width - Mainshaft 7.94 mm, End cup shank - 21 mm long @ 7.50 mm, 3 mm long half sphere on cup shank.
Oil wells - 1 mm wide @ 7, 24, 28, 65, 235, 240 mm.
Clutch Basket Spacer - Internal 25.17 mm, overall - 32.78 mm.

I then squeezed the now appropriate feeling clutch, looked down and saw something that filled me with indescribable happiness 



it was glorious..  So I cleaned up the side cover, with fresh clutch springs and gaskets around.


Degreased the rear, new pads/springs, changed out a new aluminum sprocket and new chain.




So now has been onto removing steel for a lower seat pan and new tail hoop.




I don't like how much it is bent upwards.. so now on to finding a good price on the minimal amount of welding/fab needed for it out here in NJ...

Did not like how the gauges where mounted, so went a different route.





Cool OEM bags



Now some questions.. :/
I'm having trouble bleeding out the front brake setup after new SS/lines and master rebuild... I hear noise from the master when I depress the lever.. which I assume is not good, but also still get spurts at the bleeder.. I'm at a lose here and was hoping for a simple answer like my fluid is bad, other than rebuild the master.. again..
Also, which side of the front brake piston faces out towards the brake pad?
The center indented side? or the side that is sunken with a lip?

[nIkbot]

Got the brake all squared away and it's now rider tossingly responsive. Quite happy with the result and look.






Now a question I'm hoping someone can help me out with.....

The service stand, how do you keep it from going up too high and hitting your chain?