Topic: Jetting A CB550K1

[cmeirs]

Hey Guys,

Just got my 4 K &N air filters for my 1975 CB550K1 and am wondering what I should do jetting wise.  The bike already runs a bit lean but I would like for it to run the best it can without putting a whole in my pocket.

 I bought it for $750  (good shape, broken part) just got brake work done $160 + Carbs re-built $300.  These modifications were all done by a local shop since I don't feel comfortable working on it my self yet. As for jetting, one, is $300 steep for jetting/dyno?  Second, could it work just as well with out being put on the dyno?  Any comments, recommendation, Criticisms are welcome.  Thanks.

Cory

[nancy]

wrong forum..go to Tech forum!

[cmeirs]

  ok

[Gordon]

Moved here from the Open forum.

Good luck!

[flybox1]

Hey Guys,

Just got my 4 K &N air filters for my 1975 CB550K1 and am wondering what I should do jetting wise.  The bike already runs a bit lean but I would like for it to run the best it can without putting a whole in my pocket.

 I bought it for $750  (good shape, broken part) just got brake work done $160 + Carbs re-built $300.  These modifications were all done by a local shop since I don't feel comfortable working on it my self yet. As for jetting, one, is $300 steep for jetting/dyno?  Second, could it work just as well with out being put on the dyno?  Any comments, recommendation, Criticisms are welcome.  Thanks.

Cory

Cory, man, sorry but you got robbed!   
for $160, you could have rebuilt the brake and carbs yourself, and had some change in your pocket.
What did they do for $300?!?!?  spray a bit of carb cleaner around and put in a few new orings?  they sure as hell didnt tune it to your current setup if you say its still running a bit lean. how do you know this, btw?
RIPOFF SHOPS piss me off    sorry, thats another thread 

you are here asking questions, so you probably want to learn a little. good.
download the shop manual from this site.
get a clymer manual for your 550 and read a chapter every time you are on the sh!tter.
ask tech questions and read older threads on processes.  you'll learn fast.
in a week or so, you'll be wiser, and understand you can do a better job than any shop.
btw...how do you know they did your bikes work right, or even at all for that matter 

jets are a few bucks a piece, and NO, you dont need a dyno. dont pay them another cent!

and pods, will only make you bike leaner.
dont put them on until your bike runs right as-is, then, and only then, put them on, and only if you HAVE TO....and begin the air/jetting tuning all over again   

[prov431]

I have a 76 CB550K with Uni filter pods and full Carpy exhaust - my bike runs super sweet with 42 slows and 115 mains with air screws at 1.25 open. I spent way too much time tweeking floats, jets, air screws, idle, snych, timing etc......but in the end what a bike!

[stereosilence]

Talk to member Lucky. He has a database of bikes with their setups and jets. It just depends on your pods and exhaust. Tell Lucky what you have and he can probably get you in the ballpark. I want to say that I on my 550K1 I have 110/40 or 42. You could probably dig that up in my build thread somewhere .

[vonvendetta]

I have a 76 CB550K with Uni filter pods and full Carpy exhaust - my bike runs super sweet with 42 slows and 115 mains with air screws at 1.25 open. I spent way too much time tweeking floats, jets, air screws, idle, snych, timing etc......but in the end what a bike!

This is excellent info. Would you still use the same with a supersport exhaust?

[prov431]

I'm sorry, I don't know what the differences are between a Carpy to supersport exhaust...the Carpy is very low restriction - just a small little removable baffle in the very end of the pipe (which I have in because this thing is LOUD!)

[harisuluv]

I have had customers from New York that before contacting me said they were quoted around $700 for a carb rebuild.  That's just highway robbery.  Bet they would just dunk them and call them "clean."

[Fritz]

Cory, man, sorry but you got robbed! 
for $160, you could have rebuilt the brake and carbs yourself, and had some change in your pocket.

I think, that's a bit too harsh given that there's only little information about the service the workshop has done.
Brakes for example: SS line: $60/$80 (single, dual disk), Pads (if they did not use Lucas/EBC crap): $60/$120 (single, dual disk), add piston seals, brake fluid, rear brake shoes etc. and your $160 would just go into parts.

Over here $300 are worth six hours of work at most. How long does it take you to fully clean a rotten set of carbs?

So, it depends on what has really been done. We don't know it yet.

Cory: If you have the original air box, I'd just forget about the pods for the beginning...

[cmeirs]

Hi All,

Thanks for all of the awesome responses!!  Yea as far as the shop goes, my carbs were really gummed up and I am hesitant to do work on them myself yet (Same for the breaks).   Sucks to hear that I got ripped off if that is the case.  They charge $70.00 an hour to work on the bike.  Is that too much?? other shops in the area seem to have the same fee.  Any way, I have the air box but it is cracked from me yanking it out so that is no good.  Now only two of my cylenders are firing so it looks like I have to adjust the points (Coils are fine)!!  Now I am stuck with the pods (looking cool and have another issue.  Looks like I will be doing some real "sh!tter studying" (Thanks Flybox).  Thanks again guys ill keep you all posted.

[prov431]

I used to be scared of the carb work too - for whatever reason - took to a "mechanic" who overcharged me for absolute #$%* work...ended up reading here on the forum how to pull them and work on them - it really is as easy as everyone says it is...just need to do it! It's amazing what shops charge to "work" on carbs..when you do it yourself you will see how the gouge us on the prices they charge.
As for your pods - I wouldn't be scared off from using them...yes, the stock airbox makes life easy but you can tune the bike to run just fine with the pods...I did it with zero mechanical (engine) and carb experience.
For the 2 cylinders not firing, first pull each spark plug with the engine running to see if you're getting spark (you can also ohm the plug caps, check for 5 ohms each) - if non firing cylinders are a pair 1&4 or 2&3 then I would definitely start looking at the points and coils. I once had an issue where I had taken my points off and reassembled them without putting the insulating washer back in the right spot for the condenser....got no spark to the plugs...found that mistake and all was well again. If it's not a pair of cylinders I would look at the individual carbs to be sure you are getting fuel into each bowl - you could have stuck floats or incorrect levels not allowing fuel in.

[vonvendetta]

I used to be scared of the carb work too - for whatever reason - took to a "mechanic" who overcharged me for absolute #$%* work...ended up reading here on the forum how to pull them and work on them - it really is as easy as everyone says it is...just need to do it! It's amazing what shops charge to "work" on carbs..when you do it yourself you will see how the gouge us on the prices they charge.
As for your pods - I wouldn't be scared off from using them...yes, the stock airbox makes life easy but you can tune the bike to run just fine with the pods...I did it with zero mechanical (engine) and carb experience.
For the 2 cylinders not firing, first pull each spark plug with the engine running to see if you're getting spark (you can also ohm the plug caps, check for 5 ohms each) - if non firing cylinders are a pair 1&4 or 2&3 then I would definitely start looking at the points and coils. I once had an issue where I had taken my points off and reassembled them without putting the insulating washer back in the right spot for the condenser....got no spark to the plugs...found that mistake and all was well again. If it's not a pair of cylinders I would look at the individual carbs to be sure you are getting fuel into each bowl - you could have stuck floats or incorrect levels not allowing fuel in.

Sorry to hijack. My bike, cb500, sat for almost 10 years (just got it 3 months ago). Took the carbs mostly apart including float bowls, needles, etc. Cleaned them up but were already pretty good looking since the PO did cut off the fuel. Well, yesterday I bought a can of ether. Got it started and got a rev before it died which I assume I am not getting fuel. I made sure the petcock is clear and letting fuel in, I even opened up the float bowl screws and checked to make sure there is fuel in them, which there is. What would I check next? I have a supersport exhaust and going to try to master the pods, I will be buying your setup and try it after I get it running to see what the difference is.

[new2bikes-again]

I went back to the airbox on my 74 550. The biggest improvement I got while working with the pods was cleaning the Emulsifier Tubes. Do a search on emulsifier. There's a few good posts on them on here. I remember Dave500's description being very helpful. I could've got it running well with the pods. I was up to 110s and 40s, but the fuel mileage was starting to bug me. (the whole reason for the bike was to visit family on $4.00).   

[Duanob]

I have a 76 CB550K with Uni filter pods and full Carpy exhaust - my bike runs super sweet with 42 slows and 115 mains with air screws at 1.25 open. I spent way too much time tweeking floats, jets, air screws, idle, snych, timing etc......but in the end what a bike!

It seems to me that with AAALLLLLL the posts on jetting for pods and aftermarket exhaust you might want to post your findings and in the FAQ section.

[cmeirs]

Put my old air box back on and adjusted my points/idle screw now she is running like a dream!!!!  Thanks everyone, now onto my electrical issue more posts on their way! Thanks prov431 for the Carb confidence boost I am done going to the shop for now!