Topic: New Wires into Molded Coils

[heyitsrama]

Howdy,

I was working on replacing the wires on my coils, and got to this part


Now according to http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=17310.0
One can take a nail (or sharp metal object and have it connect to the old copper, and then just slide it onto the new connection.)
my question is this I am able to make the hole 1/2" down there, but I can't think of a way to connect the nail and keep it stuck down there.
Should I be drilling deeper?
Should I take the dremel to it and cut section out, then later epoxy it all up?
I don't wanna buy new coils unless i have to ...

Its a #$%*ty picture yeah, lemme know if you need another shot.




Edit ** I found some old copper wire that we used to wire up part of the house, I made a little nail that cuts into the old coil.
Is there a way to check if the copper has made a good connection? I have access to a multi meter..

[heyitsrama]

Alright so i was trying to drill out another wire (#4) and got too far down, and hit the brass plate down there... I was lucky though the wire did not get damaged just mangled up.
Today I got the dremel out, and cut around the casing, to lay out a wire.



I ordered JB Plastic Epoxy from amazon.. Anyone recommend something different?
I want to insulate this. I was thinking silicon sealer, then electrical tape? then top everything off with epoxy?

[w1sa]

I dont think the tape will improve the job.....  seal the joint(s)/wire sparingly with high temp silicone and then rebuild the casing with the epoxy to consolidate.

[Reganator]

I wish I had caught your post sooner.

I'd do what w1sa recommended...

Here's what I did when I replaced mine.

I used a screwdriver to figure out the depth to the original connection inside the coil then drilled two holes into the side of the coil with my drill press at a 90 degree angle to each other, one into the bottom and one into the side.  I then took my 7mm wires and exposed something like 1/4 to 1/2 inch of wire and inserted them in the original holes for the wire until I could see both the connector and the wire through the holes but not the insulation from the wire, it was just at the edge of the holes I drilled.  Then I took a soldering iron and a ton of solder and basically filled in that cavity with solder, fine soldering wasn't possible with the holes, it was just enough room to look in and get the solder wire in through one and put the iron tip through the other.  After soldering them in and checking them for continuity I filled in the holes with red RTV silicone and then wrapped the holes with electrical tape.  It worked out pretty well and I didn't have to mutilate my coil quite so much.

[heyitsrama]

Reganator,
Man i wish i thought of that before ripping apart wire #1. right now I have a piece of copper slammed into the end. I can barely see the copper strands out of the rubber... Should I attempt to cut out more copper to solder it opposed to using the copper bit? You can see it a little in the second image.

As for the Silicone that I am using, its rated up to 400'F. Is this resistive enough?
After that I planned to use JB PlasticWeld for the epoxy.

[Reganator]

I'm not sure I understand... you mean the copper coming out of the coil I'm guessing?  I think I'd yank that out if you have something jammed in there and just clean up the hole.  My thought is that you've gone this far, make sure you have a good connection to the coil no matter what you have to cut up, then solder, then insulate. 

I think the RTV I used was rated much higher than that, but it would seem like 400 degrees would be enough, but I'm not sure how hot the coils get.  I think the plastic would melt close to or much beyond 400 degrees so I think that might be ok.

As for the JB plastic weld, I've never used that before.  I'd say make sure you have plenty of silicone or whatever insulator you use on there when you seal it back up.  Doesn't have to be pretty since it hides out under the tank anyway, but make sure you get that connection set as good as possible. 

So, in summation, connection at all costs is priority 1, then insulation as much as it takes.  Go a little thick or spark could ground to the frame.

Good luck.

[Reganator]

Incidentaly, if you wanted to you could also order new OEM coils from CB750 supply for 36 bucks...

[heyitsrama]

Alright well I'm going to get back into the shop and see if i can get more of the wires off the coils exposed...

Well a quick amazon search shows

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81160-High-Temp-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B0002UEN1A
Rated at 650'F

http://www.permatex.com/products/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-copper-maximum-temperature-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail
Rated at 700'F

But those are gasket makers?

http://www.dap.com/docs/tech/00000694001.pdf
This is what I'm currently using... anyone know what temp copper has when passing ~30k-40k (sounds right)  through it?

If this does not work I'll definitely go with new coils. I already bought pre-assembled wires with new caps on them, GL1000 has removable wires, so do CB750s? Why does everyone seem to be getting Dyna Coils 5k Coils? they seem like a ton of $$ to drop.

[Reganator]

Resistance on that wire should be very low so it shouldn't really be heating up much at all actually.

I think people frequently swap in coils from the Honda Nighthawk... Not sure, one of the later bikes had coils that were pretty much the same spec but have removable wires.

[750K]

Incidentaly, if you wanted to you could also order new OEM coils from CB750 supply for 36 bucks...

^^^+1 to that and there's the nice neat NGK splice kits.

[Reganator]

You beat me to making my fairing Hot Shot!  That's my next project.

[heyitsrama]

 
alright so after waiting for 2days for the epoxy to come in the mail, i've made some progress on the wire. Right now I'm waiting for the silicone to finish drying then I'm going to epoxy the other side as well.

I should have them ready tomorrow to test for spark.

[heyitsrama]

 
 alright so the battery charger came in, and I tested out the rebuilt coil (old coil was not on the bike at all) testing spark in #1 #4. with no cigar. The starter motor spins then nothing.
I've broke it down into this
1. Further Troubleshoot (I had another thread open, someone mentioned to look at the condenser)
2. Order New Coils. (GL1000? or DYNA?)
3. I feel like I am missing a step and that the issue lies somewhere else. I'll have to test the coils else where. Maybe insert a multimeter where a coil is supposed to be (blue and black on the harness) and see if there a jump in voltage when the starter is engaged?

Any advise?

EDIT***

I put the old non-mod coil back onto the bike and i got a little tiny spark on #2 the battery died before i could test #3. but its back on charge.  It was almost non-visable.

[IndyFour]

If you can swing it, get yourself a set of new coils.  I had all sorts of ignition issues when I first got my bike and I finally gave up and got new coils and plug caps....all problems solved.  IMO, splices just create points for future issues to develop due to moisture, vibration, corrosion, etc.

The ones I got were labeled "universal coil" in the electrical section of www.newmotorcycleparts.com .  It's actuall a local bike shop, but that is their website.  I think two coils, four plug caps, and new plugs ran me about $100.

Good luck.

[Reganator]

Yeah, you should maybe just look into new coils and the such.  Might save you quite a bit of time and headaches.  I was able to successfully splice mine, but I did it pretty different from the way you're doing it as well. 

They aren't so bad.  Maybe buy one if you are trying to stay on the cheap if your non-modded coil is still working.

[Xnavylfr]

You can use Goldwing OR DOHC  coils. Both have removable wires. Just make sure the coils you use have 3 or more OHMS.   The DYNA coils are EXPENSIVE and will only improve you system slightly without the DYNA S points replacement!!.


Xnavylfr(CHUCK)

[Reganator]

I'm going to do some looking, there was a sight I was on last night that sold a coil for your bike with removable wires for 38, and it wasn't the dyna one or whatever, I believe it was speced out for the CB750.

[heyitsrama]

If you can swing it, get yourself a set of new coils.  I had all sorts of ignition issues when I first got my bike and I finally gave up and got new coils and plug caps....all problems solved.  IMO, splices just create points for future issues to develop due to moisture, vibration, corrosion, etc.

The ones I got were labeled "universal coil" in the electrical section of www.newmotorcycleparts.com .  It's actuall a local bike shop, but that is their website.  I think two coils, four plug caps, and new plugs ran me about $100.

Good luck.

You were referring to http://www.newmotorcycleparts.com/electrical/coils.html the ones in the middle of the page?

DCC seems to have the same ones. 12v 4Ohm
http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-electronic-ignition-parts-universal-12-volt-ignition-coil-si-165-2.html

These seem to be the cheapest ones

Its $81 On DCC after shipping (WTF ITS $15 bucks shipping just put them in a ziplock and send them)
Its $85 on Cycle Re Cycle....

I thought the rating should be closer to 5kOhms? Or are those the plugs?
Im just going to cut out the wires that I modded on and use them with the new coils.......

[IndyFour]

If you can swing it, get yourself a set of new coils.  I had all sorts of ignition issues when I first got my bike and I finally gave up and got new coils and plug caps....all problems solved.  IMO, splices just create points for future issues to develop due to moisture, vibration, corrosion, etc.

The ones I got were labeled "universal coil" in the electrical section of www.newmotorcycleparts.com .  It's actuall a local bike shop, but that is their website.  I think two coils, four plug caps, and new plugs ran me about $100.

Good luck.

You were referring to http://www.newmotorcycleparts.com/electrical/coils.html the ones in the middle of the page?

The ones I use are the ones at the bottom of the page with attached wires.....called "universal coils".

[heyitsrama]

If you can swing it, get yourself a set of new coils.  I had all sorts of ignition issues when I first got my bike and I finally gave up and got new coils and plug caps....all problems solved.  IMO, splices just create points for future issues to develop due to moisture, vibration, corrosion, etc.

The ones I got were labeled "universal coil" in the electrical section of www.newmotorcycleparts.com .  It's actuall a local bike shop, but that is their website.  I think two coils, four plug caps, and new plugs ran me about $100.

Good luck.

You were referring to http://www.newmotorcycleparts.com/electrical/coils.html the ones in the middle of the page?

The ones I use are the ones at the bottom of the page with attached wires.....called "universal coils".

Oh darn, well i think i might have to go with the middle option. I just bought new wires and caps.

[heyitsrama]

Unless I just get Dyna 5 ohm DC8-1...
Does anyone know if I have to get the Dyna S ignition system? or can i be a bum and keep my old one?

I was working on the coils earlier, and was like hey why is there this pool of oil under my... oh **** now theres a leak and I cant get under the bike to see it.

Anyone use a Eazy Rider Lift? my uncle just dropped one off my house the other day  might as well use it to find the leak.

[Reganator]

Actually, don't mod your coils like this.  Just buy new.  As it turns out my modded coil is arcing to the frame part time.  So, like, if you like having a bajillion volts firing right next to your balls and the gas tank, mod your coils, if not, then don't I guess.

[bjbuchanan]

I have modded coils myself and after the mod it is hit or miss whether they work. Mine worked pretty well til the 2-3 crapped out. What I would suggest is (if i could do it again) is to go on partsnmore and for like 38$ per coil get the stock ones. They put out plenty enough voltage for the stock bikes and go right in place

If you go the universal route, which isn't even rly cheaper than going stock coils ironically, know that every vendor uses the same supplier. All 3 ohm cheapies that you are lucky if they actually spec at 3ohm like they say. I am running them currently with a ballast resistor hooked up. My one coil specs 2.8 and the other 3.1, with the correction factor dialed in. It is a buyer beware kinda deal

Stock coils lasted 35 years already and supply enough go juice, maybe give em a 2nd 35 yrs...

[heyitsrama]

I have modded coils myself and after the mod it is hit or miss whether they work. Mine worked pretty well til the 2-3 crapped out. What I would suggest is (if i could do it again) is to go on partsnmore and for like 38$ per coil get the stock ones. They put out plenty enough voltage for the stock bikes and go right in place

If you go the universal route, which isn't even rly cheaper than going stock coils ironically, know that every vendor uses the same supplier. All 3 ohm cheapies that you are lucky if they actually spec at 3ohm like they say. I am running them currently with a ballast resistor hooked up. My one coil specs 2.8 and the other 3.1, with the correction factor dialed in. It is a buyer beware kinda deal

Stock coils lasted 35 years already and supply enough go juice, maybe give em a 2nd 35 yrs...

the only reason that I was considering getting universal ones was because I just got new plugs and wires, and don't really want that money to go to waste.
Now what I need to find is someone selling:
 Gl1000/nighthawk/older stock coils.
 DYNA 5 Ohms.
 Or Universal Coils.

I just wanna be a cheapo and get some older coils.... Anyone selling or have spares?? 

[bjbuchanan]

Push your post here for spares and also post in the wanted section mostly down the page. Most people have these things laying around for cheap to nothing. Ebay also, but i prefer members just because I do