Author Topic: Cb650: welding hyvo cam chain (Read 12225 times)

my79650 · « **Reply #25 on:** May 08, 2013, 05:43:49 PM »

Cam installed again. Timing set. Made sure the adjuster was pushed all the way back. I had to use 1 cam sprocket bolt to hold the sprocket and chain in place on the camshaft then turn motor over to have it slide back onto the camshaft to install other bolt and make sure everything is straight. The new chain is very tight before i set the adjuster up. I can wiggle it left to right a little bit, Now is this normal for new chain? I did count the chain links to make sure it was 112 and it was. I just want to make sure i got it right and didn't get a chain that was just a bit too small. Once turned over by the ignition for bout 10 seconds the chain did fit properly on the sprocket. A new chain is supposed to have a little slack on it during installation right?

crazypj · « **Reply #26 on:** May 09, 2013, 04:49:41 PM »

They are usually pretty tight until the assembly grease melts out and is replaced with oil.
I would re-check adjustment after 50 miles or so then again at 300

lucky · « **Reply #27 on:** May 09, 2013, 07:16:01 PM »

Quote from: my79650 on May 08, 2013, 01:55:19 AM

Broke the tool pressing pin into place; sh!t happens; peened both ends; now to install cam and time it up, then adjust tension before i install rocker arms and covers.

Grandfather is rolling over.LOL

my79650 · « **Reply #28 on:** May 10, 2013, 01:00:06 AM »

Great; and yes my grandfather would have whipped me if he was alive lol

my79650 · « **Reply #29 on:** May 11, 2013, 01:58:56 PM »

Had it running today for a few minutes with my 76Cb750 carbs. Sounds like crap without the airbox. Still waiting on acc. pump for my original pd50 carbs for this engine.

my79650 · « **Reply #30 on:** May 14, 2013, 01:23:47 AM »

Still down until i get the throttle cable issue straightened out. See my thread "pull cable"

my79650 · « **Reply #31 on:** May 20, 2013, 02:53:07 AM »

Running; adjusted valves, readjusted cam chain tension. Have to run it a few days then check everything again.

my79650 · « **Reply #32 on:** May 22, 2013, 01:33:26 AM »

Set valves again as it was ticking; quieted down some now i got a noise from the cam chain. I may have to pull the cover off and recheck to see if the tensioner is working. Curious on this noise as i can hear it at idle but when i rev it up a few grand i can't over the sound of revving engine. Is this normal for new timing chain? Worried as the last engine i had the jugs off and back together the timing chain broke and killed it on my 1st cb650.

trueblue · « **Reply #33 on:** May 22, 2013, 04:13:06 AM »

try syncing your carbs, these engines are noisy at idle if they are out of sync

my79650 · « **Reply #34 on:** May 22, 2013, 04:54:44 PM »

Syncing has to wait awhile. Got this tick tick tick. Readjusted valves again for 4th time. Even swapped my cover/rocker arms out and set up valves again. Tick tick tick even when i rev it or idle. Sounds like its coming from right side. My tappets are fine. Bent valve maybe? I didn't back the tappets out when i installed everything as i have had them off and on several times over the years due to gaskets leaking.

my79650 · « **Reply #35 on:** May 23, 2013, 05:12:27 PM »

Back up and running. MY tick tick tick was from #3.....i didn't have the tappet in place. It and the nut fell out and was laying down by the valve spring. Pulled the cover and fished them out. I used a spare out of my other set of rocker arms. Set the valves at .003 in. and .004 ex. A little ticking not like it was last nite. If it performs ok with those valve settings then i leave it be. If it seems a bit off i will set them back to original specs.

crazypj · « **Reply #36 on:** May 24, 2013, 10:28:10 AM »

Quote from: my79650 on May 22, 2013, 04:54:44 PM

Syncing has to wait awhile. Got this tick tick tick. Readjusted valves again for 4th time. Even swapped my cover/rocker arms out and set up valves again. Tick tick tick even when i rev it or idle. Sounds like its coming from right side. My tappets are fine. Bent valve maybe? I didn't back the tappets out when i installed everything as i have had them off and on several times over the years due to gaskets leaking.

real good possibility, I did it once on first top end job I did on 550 (I was only 19 at the time)
top of valve got bent and would stick in guide (which also got cracked)

my79650 · « **Reply #37 on:** May 25, 2013, 05:19:30 AM »

Sounds better than it did after i installed another tappet, made sure the nut was tight. Just need a day to go for a test drive and see what happens under load. Can only do so much sitting in my yard.

Gregorymoto · « **Reply #38 on:** May 25, 2013, 06:10:56 AM »

Ya thats not a good idea at all.

my79650 · « **Reply #39 on:** May 29, 2013, 01:35:16 AM »

Had it for a 15 mile drive last nite, works great out on the road in 5th gear pulling. Still have to readjust valves for #2 and 3. Set 1 and 4 then went for the drive. Ticking coming from center cylinders up top. Need to start a new thread as i have sooty plugs and a flat spot when going in town at 30 mph in 4th. Almost like it surges but it doesn't.

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #40 on:** February 07, 2015, 06:49:33 PM »

I think I'm about to attempt this too. It looks like a PO tried to modify the tensioner to compensate for a badly stretched chain. I bought one off ebay and it barely touches the tensioner blade. The chain is so stretched it bunches up on the sprocket when it goes around.

The good news is the cam chain is still available (this is an old Honda Foreman 4 wheeler). The chain breaker mentioned by trueblue is for a drive chain I assume?

This is what I'm going to try:

Quote from: trueblue on May 03, 2013, 03:40:07 AM

When I replaced the cam chain on my 650 I used a chain breaker and pushed the pin out, but left it in the last plate of the chain. I then broke the chain that was in the bike, wired the end of the old chain to the new chain. Wound it through once it was round I just removed the old chain and pushed the pin back through with a set of vise grips. The pin is a press fit in the links so doesn't need peening over. Mine has held no worries for over 5000 miles . The trick is don't remove the pin completely from the last plate because you will never get it back in .

trueblue · « **Reply #41 on:** February 08, 2015, 02:31:33 AM »

I used a cam chain out of a 750/4 DOHC, IIRC. It was a few links long, I just knocked a couple of links out. The chain breaker I used was one especially for the HY-VO cam chains. I borrowed it from a mate of mine to do the job so I can't even show you a picture. Just make sure the pin is even out each side of the chain. I used a small 1/4 drive socket to let the pin protrude a little.

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #42 on:** February 08, 2015, 06:50:53 AM »

Quote from: trueblue on February 08, 2015, 02:31:33 AM

I used a cam chain out of a 750/4 DOHC, IIRC. It was a few links long, I just knocked a couple of links out. The chain breaker I used was one especially for the HY-VO cam chains. I borrowed it from a mate of mine to do the job so I can't even show you a picture. Just make sure the pin is even out each side of the chain. I used a small 1/4 drive socket to let the pin protrude a little.

I didn't see anything specific for the hy-vo chain

I just bought a cam chain and a Pit Posse breaker last night. I made sure it was small enough to handle the cam chain rivets, I measured them at 3.1mm...

trueblue · « **Reply #43 on:** February 09, 2015, 02:54:10 AM »

Quote from: fmctm1sw on February 08, 2015, 06:50:53 AM

Quote from: trueblue on February 08, 2015, 02:31:33 AM
I used a cam chain out of a 750/4 DOHC, IIRC. It was a few links long, I just knocked a couple of links out. The chain breaker I used was one especially for the HY-VO cam chains. I borrowed it from a mate of mine to do the job so I can't even show you a picture. Just make sure the pin is even out each side of the chain. I used a small 1/4 drive socket to let the pin protrude a little.

I didn't see anything specific for the hy-vo chain I just bought a cam chain and a Pit Posse breaker last night. I made sure it was small enough to handle the cam chain rivets, I measured them at 3.1mm...

Like I said, it wasn't my tool, but it fit the chain perfectly. I can't help you further than that

fmctm1sw · « **Reply #44 on:** February 16, 2015, 04:45:27 PM »

Well, I did it. The Pit Posse's breaker tool I got was their low end tool. I wouldn't have minded spending more money but the heavier duty ones have larger pins (obviously) and I knew my cam chain rivets were only around 3mm. I grinded off the rivet head on my installed chain and pushed it out. Then I pushed a pin out of the new chain as trueblue mentioned without letting it go all the way out.

I connected the chains with some small wire and pulled it through. After some worrisome moments, I had both ends of the new chain in my hand. I used the tool to push the rivet back through the chain. Done... Much easier than I thought. The breaker made easy work of the rivet in the new chain. The difference is astounding.

Here's a picture of the tensioner someone had in it. I knew it wasn't a Honda creation when I saw the threads poking through the case

I broke it taking it apart, the casing wasn't cracked. So I should be good now. The timing is dead on and I got the head back together. Someone put a 1mm over Wiseco high compression piston in it. The bike has a compression release on it but it looks like someone took the mounting hardware off it. Should be a runner....

my79650 · « **Reply #45 on:** March 12, 2015, 08:42:08 AM »

This will be my second season running with the replacement cam chain; no issues at all. Installing without splitting cases is the way to go; a lot less work and you get more drive time in; definitely important where i'm at due to at least a 5 month parking time(screw you winter).

trueblue · « **Reply #46 on:** March 13, 2015, 01:47:34 AM »

Quote from: my79650 on March 12, 2015, 08:42:08 AM

This will be my second season running with the replacement cam chain; no issues at all. Installing without splitting cases is the way to go; a lot less work and you get more drive time in; definitely important where i'm at due to at least a 5 month parking time(screw you winter).

Mine has been going fine for 4 years after the same treatment, mind you it has been sat for the last 6 months, due to not being able to afford to register the toys. $:-\$

my79650 · « **Reply #47 on:** March 30, 2015, 12:43:01 AM »

Where i'm at in the past four years due to the greedy government our motorcycle registration fees went up from $25/yr. to $40/yr. Cannot guess how much in other areas, never bothered to research it.

trueblue · « **Reply #48 on:** March 30, 2015, 04:58:02 AM »

Quote from: my79650 on March 30, 2015, 12:43:01 AM

Where i'm at in the past four years due to the greedy government our motorcycle registration fees went up from $25/yr. to $40/yr. Cannot guess how much in other areas, never bothered to research it.

Mate I wish it was that cheap here, I have to pay a little over $400 for rego on my bike then insurance is another $200ish.

my79650 · « **Reply #49 on:** April 01, 2015, 04:32:58 AM »

At least your insurance is a better deal; i have only the bare minimum for insurance and i pay $270/yr.

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Author Topic: Cb650: welding hyvo cam chain (Read 12225 times)