Author Topic: Setting Your Points  (Read 12714 times)

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Offline ncstatecamp

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Re: Setting Your Points
« Reply #25 on: July 21, 2013, 12:05:30 AM »
Well the bike sounds and runs fine. I can set 1 and 4 or 2/3 perfect but not both, that would require I turn the plate more space then I got.

Offline neilc

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Re: Setting Your Points
« Reply #26 on: July 23, 2013, 03:13:49 PM »
lost me,my advancer has a dowl in the back and cannot be put in any way but one,and mine doesn't look like your pic(similar) but not the same,also i have the exact same size opening between my points plate and outer edges(less than .002 at all 3 locations).am i missing something with the dowl and possibly being 180 out?
« Last Edit: July 23, 2013, 03:30:25 PM by neilc »

Offline martin99

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Re: Setting Your Points
« Reply #27 on: July 23, 2013, 03:38:26 PM »
You are right, the advancer assy can only go in one way. The 180 thing refers to the cam itself - the 'outer ring' you see in the centre. If you remove the springs and withdraw the bob weights (those lever things) from their posts, the cam can be removed by pulling it upward from the centre post, and it is possible to re-install it the wrong way round - or 180 out.

I wish I had stumbled upon this thread earlier, having spent hours at the weekend getting my timing somewhere near right. My biggest problem though was with the daughter plate for 2&3 - anyone got any tips for keeping that steady? Mine had slight up and down movement, enough to make the job a real PITA. New unit from Dave Silver too.
Build threads:
77 750F2 Refresh Project http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=144075.0
TRIBSA http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,160296.0.html

1977 CB750 F2
1958 Norton Model 99
2011 Triumph Street Triple 675

Offline neilc

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Re: Setting Your Points
« Reply #28 on: July 23, 2013, 03:56:14 PM »
good to know,i just got a used plate assembly from someone on this forum and return my DIACHI one i got from partsnmore,it was a piece of junk,anyway i'll check the assembly i just got but it looks like it has been run before,i am just using it for now to troubleshoot some other issues i have but great post guys

Offline KRONUS0100

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Re: Setting Your Points
« Reply #29 on: July 23, 2013, 06:00:57 PM »
okay.  issues.  i did it your way mr buchannan (hope i spelt that right) and have comt to an issue
1.  when i turn the motor to point on ignition cam where 1-4 are open widest and set gap, i then hook up a 12 volt test light and roll the motor 1 full revolution. with ignition on, the points dont begin to open until the "T" mark..............i verified this from the "F" mark using a feeler guage........at the "T"  mark is just under ..2" gap.   the issues is the test light comes on way before that and stays on almost all the way to  where 2-3 start to open.and when i rock the timing plate, the light never flickers.  Now i aint smartest in class, but i know this aint right. 

2.  is there any difference between the 750 advancer cam and any of the other SOHC  cams?   i am really starting to wonder if i have the wrong advancer cam.  i will get some pics up when my kids get back with my phone and munchies.
« Last Edit: July 23, 2013, 06:35:50 PM by KRONUS0100 »
MATT
current bikes:  1976 CB750F, 1981 GS1100E
bikes owned:1981 GL1100I, 1990 GS500E, 1981 GS850, 1977 and 1979 GS750, 1974 CB750, 1975 CB750, and a 1982 GS750E

Offline Kickstart

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Re: Setting Your Points
« Reply #30 on: July 23, 2013, 09:30:57 PM »
okay.  issues.  i did it your way mr buchannan (hope i spelt that right) and have comt to an issue
1.  when i turn the motor to point on ignition cam where 1-4 are open widest and set gap, i then hook up a 12 volt test light and roll the motor 1 full revolution. with ignition on, the points dont begin to open until the "T" mark..............i verified this from the "F" mark using a feeler guage........at the "T"  mark is just under ..2" gap.   the issues is the test light comes on way before that and stays on almost all the way to  where 2-3 start to open.and when i rock the timing plate, the light never flickers.  Now i aint smartest in class, but i know this aint right. 
...

Maybe I read this wrong, but it seems like you're confusing two different adjustments.

The points gap adjustment is to set the dwell (how long the points are open/closed), and adjusting them affects the timing adjustment, but just setting the points gap won't mean your timing is correct.  After you set the gap you need to then adjust the timing by turning the whole plate (for the 1-4 timing)

As noted in the original post "Now remember that after you set your points gaps for both 1-4 and 2-3 you gotta probably swivel the plate to bring in that dead on spot with the timing light. If you are gonna loosen the main plate, you must remember to put your shim in there til it is cinched back down. If not you just reintro'd your discrepancy. Keep using the shim to eliminate it. For those not used to setting the points remember that the light will switch on when you open the points. That is when you stop turning the big nut and see how close you are. The main idea is to see that light switch when you hit that f hash mark if not keep fiddling. The place to place the test lead is on the yellow or blue wire where it attaches to the points it is plenty sufficient."

or maybe you're saying you already tried that but it's still too far off.  In that case, the only thing I can think of is maybe you set the gap wrong  When you say "I turn the motor to point on ignition cam where 1-4 are open widest and set gap" how did you actually do this?  If you're timing is already off you need to actually watch the points opening and closing and adjust the  gap when they are at their most open point.  If you're just turning the motor to the spot where the points are suppose to be at their greatest opening, it might not actually be at that spot and you'd be setting the wrong gap.

Others may know the answer to you second question... I'd be interested to know as well.
- Chris
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75' CB750F Blue (Project)
75' CB750F Painted black (Project)
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Offline Spanner 1

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Re: Setting Your Points
« Reply #31 on: July 24, 2013, 12:51:46 AM »
When I really, really have insomnia I read a 'how to set your points' thread'.... beaten to death, again and again... all available in the archives/ how to ..zzzzzzz... someone injects some 'new' bull#$%* about points and thinks it's a new idea... priceless...:)
If your sure it's a carb problem; it's ignition,
If your sure it's an ignition problem; it's carbs....

Offline ncstatecamp

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Re: Setting Your Points
« Reply #32 on: July 24, 2013, 02:37:19 AM »
Quote
Well the bike sounds and runs fine. I can set 1 and 4 or 2/3 perfect but not both, that would require I turn the plate more space then I got.

If that's the case then work the points gap off spec a tad if needed to match up.

rechecked and within the tolerances allowed.

Offline hymodyne

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Re: Setting Your Points
« Reply #33 on: July 26, 2013, 12:13:09 PM »
My 2/3 timing  mark "F" lines up with the notched point on the crankcase, making the light flicker on and off at this point. The "F" mark on the 1/4 side does not line up when the light flickers on and off. that happens further along, nearer to the  advance (?) twin marks for 1/4.

How do I get the "F" mark to line up with the notch on the crankcase? the points base plate will move when you loosen the 3 screws, but neither the marks on the shaft fitment or the mark on the block are changed by moving the points plate around.

James
"All things are ready if our minds be so."

Offline KRONUS0100

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Re: Setting Your Points
« Reply #34 on: July 26, 2013, 02:26:56 PM »
have got it figure out.  my 2-3 moveable plate was in the way of being able to move the back plate after setting 1-4 once they were at widest opening.  i think i also was goin past the point at which this happened a wee bit and wasnt catching the cam in the sweet spot so to speak.
now my next question...............................i have been looking at the maxi dwell for my 750.  considering the cost of genuine honda hitachi points and condensers..................do you think the maxi dwell can be made out of ford points?   i can get ford points all day long from my buddy at the truck shop for 15 bucks. he knows a guy that will actually make me a new backing plate and mount everything so it lines up for a case of beer.  to me this more economical than 100 bucks for a set of genuine points and condensers.
MATT
current bikes:  1976 CB750F, 1981 GS1100E
bikes owned:1981 GL1100I, 1990 GS500E, 1981 GS850, 1977 and 1979 GS750, 1974 CB750, 1975 CB750, and a 1982 GS750E

Offline hymodyne

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Re: Setting Your Points
« Reply #35 on: July 29, 2013, 05:02:10 PM »
My 2/3 timing  mark "F" lines up with the notched point on the crankcase, making the light flicker on and off at this point. The "F" mark on the 1/4 side does not line up when the light flickers on and off. that happens further along, nearer to the  advance (?) twin marks for 1/4.

How do I get the "F" mark to line up with the notch on the crankcase? the points base plate will move when you loosen the 3 screws, but neither the marks on the shaft fitment or the mark on the block are changed by moving the points plate around.

James

Got all of this sorted out at last,
daichi points and condensers I bought were no good. When I put my old set back on, she ran great.  Live and learn.

James
"All things are ready if our minds be so."