Topic: wheel bearing retainer questions

[bollingball]

Get a small drill bit and put it in the punch mark while you hold it there wrap a peace of tape around the bit now this is how deep the peen is now get your 5/32 drill and wrap some tape around it 1 or 2 mm deeper than the small bit you used before Leave a piece or flap of tape hanging out as a wiper when you drill deep enough the flap will wipe the chips off telling you that is deep enough. This is a poor mans depth gauge

Ken

[jason41987]

it would appear ive gotten the holes properly drilled out.. however, it would seem i still cant get this thing off which isnt suprising to me, this things never been taken apart on a close to 40 year old machine, the tool i have requires two hands, and no one can actually hold the hub with enough resistance

so.. i did order a pin wrench earlier this week, should be here soon and this should be a much better tool.. also, im going to finish cleaning and polishing the exterior of the hub and the rim (its a CB550F hub with a 2.15" CB750 rim im lacing together since this bike did come with an extra rim that just so happened to be off a CB750)..  then im going to lace them together for extra leverage so ill probably get this open this weekend

another question i have, kinda related.. but when i look into the brake side of the hub, there are holes in the inside surface, inside these holes it seems a bunch of stuff has collected.. i even see some leaves and branches in there.. how do i clean this out?

[BobbyR]

You can put some penetrating oil in the drilled out stake marks. Turn the wheel on it;s side so the oil runs along the threads. Also if you a can heat the area around the retainer and get it to expand a bit. I found with mine a quick left and right motion with the tool broke it loose. The junk inside you can clean out once you have the whole thing apart.

[jason41987]

will the retainer being removed actually open the inside of the wheel as well to clear that crap out?

[BobbyR]

Actually when you remove the brake shoe plate and get the rear hub actually down to two aluminum castings it should be wide open. Pull out the shoes and flush it clean. In any event when you have the bearings out you can use solvents or detergents without worry. 

[MCRider]

will the retainer being removed actually open the inside of the wheel as well to clear that crap out?

Not exactly, but with it out, follows the bearings. Then the inside of the hub is ready for cleanout.

AS to tools here's an old thread I started. The first tool in the thread was really lame and I improved it. Scroll to the end and you'll see my updated strap aluminum with two short screws in it. Guaranteed to provide all the leverage needed, for less the $3.

[jason41987]

here are the holes i was talking about.. not the center hole where the axle goes, but the four holes in the back wall of the hub, behind where the brake goes

http://i742.photobucket.com/albums/xx67/mcycle4/FRI103009195.jpg..

that is where a lot of crud has built up at

[MCRider]

Not following. That area is open for cleaning as is. If you want to open up the opposite sides, gotta remove the rubber bumpers.

Warning: If you use air to blow that out, set the pressure way down to 30psi and work your way up. Do it outside and wear a mask if so inclined. Brake dust will go everywhere.

[jason41987]

any guide on how to remove that piece?.. there seems to be a lot of twigs and branches that i dont think i can blow out.. this hub was on a wheel that was stored off the bike for a while before i bought it and i need to get to the inside of that area somehow to do a full cleaning

[MCRider]

any guide on how to remove that piece?.. there seems to be a lot of twigs and branches that i dont think i can blow out.. this hub was on a wheel that was stored off the bike for a while before i bought it and i need to get to the inside of that area somehow to do a full cleaning

Are we talking about the sprocket drive mounting plate? IT is stuck in place on those rubber dampers, that's all that holds it. A large diameter drift thru those holes and tap it out successively going from hole to hole.

[jason41987]

really, so its just basically held on with the friction of the rubber.. and its not any structural piece id imagine, simply a plate used to enclose the wheel?... im going to pop that off then so i can clean on polish the inside too

[MCRider]

really, so its just basically held on with the friction of the rubber.. and its not any structural piece id imagine, simply a plate used to enclose the wheel?... im going to pop that off then so i can clean on polish the inside too

When its part of the assembly, the Axlenut squishes it all together. Simply a plate...?  Still trying to confirm we're talking about the same thing. ITs got the 4 studs n it to which you bolt the sprocket?

"Pop that off?" In the best of circumstances it is usually really stuck on good. There are 4 large lugs that nestle into the dampers, and really get attached to them.  Since yours has been in the weather, could be harder. But use as big a drift, wooden dowel rod is good, as will fit in the hole, tap (whack) it once or twice, when you see it moving a little go across the hub to the other hole and whack, continue in all 4 holes.

[jason41987]

hopefully this better explains the question... the four holes in question ive circled in red.. theres debri behind them and i was wondering how to access the area behind these holes so that i could give it a full and proper cleaning

another question that im curious about are these things marked in yellow, what are they and what do they do?

[MCRider]

Yup that's all I'm talking about. Been a while since I looked at it. IF the rubber dampers cover the holes you'll have to fish past them with your drift till you find the inside of the drive plate.

The yellow holes are where the tits of the dampers push thru to hold the dampers in place for assy. Once the drive plate is inserted into the dampers, they don't have anything else to do except be there. Don't pull the titties off from this side, they are helpful in reassembly.

Once the drive plate is off, you can push on the titties to get the dampers off and clean.

[jason41987]

i dont think theres anything covering the holes.. so the drive plate just pops off with some force after the retainer is removed, and this will allow me to clean the dampers and the inside surfaces of the metal?

[MCRider]

i dont think theres anything covering the holes.. so the drive plate just pops off with some force after the retainer is removed, and this will allow me to clean the dampers and the inside surfaces of the metal?

On the drive side the retainer is part of the drive plate and doesn't have to be removed to remove the drive plate. And yes pushing on the drive plate thru the holes from the brake side will push the drive plate out of the dampers and onto the floor.

[jason41987]

then ill try to get the plate off tomorrow, still waiting till im finished prepping the rim before i lace it together and i wont have the leverage to get the retainer off until then.. but i should be able to get the plate off now.. go over the inside with a brash brush to clean all the crud out.. i can always get at the retainer and the bearings later when the wheel is back together

i havent started on the front wheel yet.. but the spoke set i purchased had a set of front spokes too, and a couple are rusted, so might as well replace all of those too while i have them, but i have a set of bearings for the front wheel too that ill have to get to at some point, so far ive just been working on the rear