Author Topic: CB550 High Idle  (Read 8561 times)

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Offline Ian_Butler

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CB550 High Idle
« on: May 06, 2013, 10:28:26 AM »
Hey guys,

This is my first post! I recently bought a "new" 1974 CB550K. The bike is (mostly) in perfect running order. Shocks are great. The PO had replaced the tank with a lined fiberglass tank modeled after the stock tank (paint is not stellar but that'll be for later) and removed the mirrors (probably because he dropped it). The PO also had a set of jardine 4-into-2 exhaust, a nice bonus in my opinion. The bike sat for a long time (~15-20 years) as a showroom piece. The PO got it running again so he could sell. So I slapped on a pair of DCC bar-end mirrors and went out for a ride.

That's where the problem started. Cold and choked, the bike idles at 3-4k. Warm and choked, the idle will hold at 6k. When I remove the choke, then the bike will die unless I hold about half-throttle. I can back the choke off a little to where it idles at 1100 (I'm told it should idle here) but after a bit the idle creeps back up to 3-4k despite choke position. If I blip the throttle and hold about 8k for a few seconds, the idle will decend below 3k and continue to descend until the bike dies.

Based on these symptoms, I'm drawn to a possible vacuum leak in the carbs, probably the 40-year-old carb boots on the manifold side. I understand that these tend to crack, especially after sitting for so long. So I ran a quick test once I got the bike warm. I sprayed the carb boots with WD40, to attempt to get a temporary seal. Success! The idle backed off from the 3k it was holding at down to a normal range. Blipping the throttle again seemed to re-open the leak.

Confident in my findings, I decided to apply sealant to the boots. Unfortunately, this did not work. I'm assuming that the sealant didn't hit the hole(s). It was a brush applicator, so that's probably it.

I wanted to see if you guys have any experience here. I'm thinking I'm gonna pull the carbs and replace the boots. I was planning on a carb re-build anyway. I can only imagine that the internals are really dirty!

Here are some pictures.




~ Ian

1974 CB550K

“In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV. You're a passive observer and it is all moving by you boringly in a frame. On a cycle the frame is gone. You're completely in contact with it all. You're in the scene, not just watching it anymore, and the sense of presence is overwhelming.” ― Robert M. Pirsig

Offline flybox1

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Re: CB550 High Idle
« Reply #1 on: May 06, 2013, 10:41:11 AM »
valves set?
timing and advance correct?
cam chain adjusted?
carbs cleaned - jets and emulsion tubes pulled and properly cleared, float heights checked and set to OEM specs, mixture screws set. bench sync completed?
new air/oil filter? oil changed?
good, charged battery.

we cant diagnose anything until we know the basics have been done  ;D

'78 750K (F3 engine) PD42b's, Modified airbox w/K&N  filter, 40/110 jets, 1 needle shim, IMS@ 1 turn out. Kerker + Cone 18" QuietCore

Past Bikes
1974 550K0 (stock), 1973 CB350F (stock), 1983 Yamaha XS400K (POS)
77/78 cool 2 member #3
"Knowledge without mileage equals bullsh!t" - Henry Rollins

"This is my CB. There are many like it, but this one is mine…"

Offline Ian_Butler

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Re: CB550 High Idle
« Reply #2 on: May 06, 2013, 10:50:32 AM »
haha yep, I completely understand.

Everything minus the exhaust and probably the carb jet are bone stock. Air, oil and battery I did myself right after buying. I didn't pull the carbs yet can't until early June (I'm away from the bike for the next few weeks finishing up my last year at the Air Force Academy)

Timing/Advance, Cam chain, and valves, I have not checked. However, the bike runs smooth and great across the range of RPMs, as long as I don't let it hit the low end  ;)  That, and the quick boot test, lead me towards the air leak. I could totally be wrong though.
~ Ian

1974 CB550K

“In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV. You're a passive observer and it is all moving by you boringly in a frame. On a cycle the frame is gone. You're completely in contact with it all. You're in the scene, not just watching it anymore, and the sense of presence is overwhelming.” ― Robert M. Pirsig

Offline flybox1

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Re: CB550 High Idle
« Reply #3 on: May 06, 2013, 10:51:50 AM »
while its idling, spray WD40 around the boots, one at a time.  if the idle changes, you've found your leak.
does the idle set screw make any difference?
'78 750K (F3 engine) PD42b's, Modified airbox w/K&N  filter, 40/110 jets, 1 needle shim, IMS@ 1 turn out. Kerker + Cone 18" QuietCore

Past Bikes
1974 550K0 (stock), 1973 CB350F (stock), 1983 Yamaha XS400K (POS)
77/78 cool 2 member #3
"Knowledge without mileage equals bullsh!t" - Henry Rollins

"This is my CB. There are many like it, but this one is mine…"

Offline Ian_Butler

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Re: CB550 High Idle
« Reply #4 on: May 06, 2013, 11:30:36 AM »
Yep that's what I did. I rode the bike to get her warm (~40miles as it was a nice day) sat her in the driveway and sprayed WD40 on  the boots. The right bank seemed to do it, there's also some popping from that side. I tried the idle screw to little avail. The bike naturally wants that 3-4k idle and I have to choke it some to enrich the mixture. After the WD40 I could take the choke out, but i didn't want to mess with the idle screw there because it wouldn't last more than a few minutes before the bike would die.

I'm fairly new at this and looking to increase my skill by wrenching on my 550. You mentioned a few other things, cam chain tension and valve settings. Would those also lead to the symptoms I'm experiencing?
« Last Edit: May 06, 2013, 11:33:10 AM by I_Butler »
~ Ian

1974 CB550K

“In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV. You're a passive observer and it is all moving by you boringly in a frame. On a cycle the frame is gone. You're completely in contact with it all. You're in the scene, not just watching it anymore, and the sense of presence is overwhelming.” ― Robert M. Pirsig

Offline flybox1

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Re: CB550 High Idle
« Reply #5 on: May 06, 2013, 12:16:11 PM »
indirectly, they can.
slides bench synched too high can also lead to high idle, especially if the idle set screw has no effect.
'78 750K (F3 engine) PD42b's, Modified airbox w/K&N  filter, 40/110 jets, 1 needle shim, IMS@ 1 turn out. Kerker + Cone 18" QuietCore

Past Bikes
1974 550K0 (stock), 1973 CB350F (stock), 1983 Yamaha XS400K (POS)
77/78 cool 2 member #3
"Knowledge without mileage equals bullsh!t" - Henry Rollins

"This is my CB. There are many like it, but this one is mine…"

Offline Ian_Butler

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Re: CB550 High Idle
« Reply #6 on: June 04, 2013, 03:03:26 PM »
Just finished the rebuild and bench sync of the carbs and replaced the manifold side boots yesterday. I fired it up today and she ran much better than before! I don't have to use choke to run the bike after it's warm! The only problem is that the idle now hangs at around 3k after I wail on the throttle. It won't back down very much either. I think it might be because I didn't vacuum sync the carbs yet (still waiting on the kit I ordered). Oddly enough, I can back it down with the idle screw but I have to re-adjust the screw after it comes back down. The bike will idle at 1k (factory spec) and it will idle as low as 800. Could my slides be sticking or could it be something else? Am I right to wait to pass judgment until after I perform a vacuum sync?
~ Ian

1974 CB550K

“In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV. You're a passive observer and it is all moving by you boringly in a frame. On a cycle the frame is gone. You're completely in contact with it all. You're in the scene, not just watching it anymore, and the sense of presence is overwhelming.” ― Robert M. Pirsig

Offline TwoTired

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Re: CB550 High Idle
« Reply #7 on: June 04, 2013, 03:49:22 PM »
I'm reading this thread for the first time.  For earlier posts, I was going to ask which way you were flipping the choke lever to make it "on".  More than once I've seen people get this backwards.

Many newbs vacuum sync wrong, in that they feel each carb and every carb must be adjusted.  Actually three carbs are adjusted to the whatever carb has the highest initial vacuum reading.  At idle, this will be the carb with the most "closed" slide.

A vacuum leak can cause idle high or creep.  But, so will carbs out of sync, as the carbs fight for dominance of crank rpm versus programed mixture during the very small slide openings.

I feel it is pointless to do a carb vacuum sync until AFTER the 3K tune up check list is completed.  If you bake, you don't begin with the icing and add the cake under it later.  Cake first, then ice it.  A valve adjustment can make the vacuum sync different, for example.

To be clear, the air screws on these carbs are not adjusted for idle speed or vacuum balance.  The air screws are adjusted for throttle response off idle under load.
You can't snap the throttle open from idle and expect engine power development.  You should expect to snap up to one half of remaining travel and have the engine accelerate in any gear from idle speed.  As the engine revs increase, you can incrementally add more twist to the grip.  Book values of pilot screw adjustment work well for the stock induction and exhaust characteristics.  But, the carbs cannot automatically adjust to changes in induction and exhaust if their characteristics differ from stock.
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline Ian_Butler

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Re: CB550 High Idle
« Reply #8 on: June 04, 2013, 05:57:28 PM »
Thanks for the advice. I set up the carbs to factory spec using the spec sheet you posted here a while back. I have the stock air box with the 4 into 2 Jardine system which, as I read in the forums here, shouldn't need anything other than stock carb settings. Throttle response is good. The problem comes when backing off from revs higher than 3k. It hangs at 3k if the engine is not under load. Do you think I still have a vacuum leak? I replaced everything except the actual intake manifold gasket. Also, the idle won't climb without the initial application of throttle. It almost feels like I have something impeding the slide movement (which cannot be because I just rebuilt the carbs). When it hangs, I can back it off with the idle screw but i need to re-adjust the idle screw back to the previous position before the engine quits.
~ Ian

1974 CB550K

“In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV. You're a passive observer and it is all moving by you boringly in a frame. On a cycle the frame is gone. You're completely in contact with it all. You're in the scene, not just watching it anymore, and the sense of presence is overwhelming.” ― Robert M. Pirsig

Offline Tews19

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Re: CB550 High Idle
« Reply #9 on: June 04, 2013, 06:19:43 PM »
Welcome to the site!

Not down playing anyone else's opinion but from my personal experience TT is the man when it comes to 550s. His opinion is highly respected here and he knows these bikes very well.

That being said, do you have any kinks in your cables?
1969 Honda CB750... Basket case
1970 Honda CB750 survivor.

Offline Ian_Butler

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Re: CB550 High Idle
« Reply #10 on: June 04, 2013, 06:48:55 PM »
I hope I didn't sound dismissive; I am extremely glad TT found my post here. I am really just starting out and his previous posts have been something that I search for when looking for information!

There is a little bit of play in the pull throttle cable. The push cable is smooth. I am planning on replacing both of them, simply because I'm not sure what the weak link here is. I haven't gotten a chance to do cam chain adjustment, points adjustment, and valve clearances yet due to stuck case screws. Penetrating oil didn't work. I'm gonna get an impact driver tomorrow and try with that.
~ Ian

1974 CB550K

“In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV. You're a passive observer and it is all moving by you boringly in a frame. On a cycle the frame is gone. You're completely in contact with it all. You're in the scene, not just watching it anymore, and the sense of presence is overwhelming.” ― Robert M. Pirsig

Offline TwoTired

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Re: CB550 High Idle
« Reply #11 on: June 04, 2013, 06:50:21 PM »
Do you think I still have a vacuum leak?
I can't tell from here.
Quote
A vacuum leak can cause idle high or creep.  But, so will carbs out of sync, as the carbs fight for dominance of crank rpm versus programed mixture during the very small slide openings.

I just rebuilt the carbs).
And you're 100% certain that they are now within factory spec?

Were I to speculate wildly, I'd say it needs a vacuum balance  (AFTER the 3k tuneup process).  Kinda depends on how confident you are that there are no induction leaks.

Your call
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline Tews19

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Re: CB550 High Idle
« Reply #12 on: June 04, 2013, 06:53:23 PM »
Impact driver on cam tensioner?! I asked this last year. DONT DO IT! Someone stopped me before and I am glad they did. Get the pb blaster. Go slow and follow the manual when adjusting. You jack it up you are in trouble..

can you post a video of the bike running?
1969 Honda CB750... Basket case
1970 Honda CB750 survivor.

Offline Ian_Butler

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Re: CB550 High Idle
« Reply #13 on: June 04, 2013, 08:44:46 PM »
I'll take a video tomorrow. Thanks for the advice on the impact driver! I'm glad you stopped me! I tried one more time to get that bolt to move just a few minutes ago. It finally budged. I guess half a bottle of penetrating oil did the trick! Tomorrow morning I'll be able to do valves and cam chain. I'll also change the oil and do static timing with an ohmmeter (I don't have a strobe or a test lamp). I've got a few days before my vac sync kit gets in.

I seriously hope there are no induction leaks. I believe I had that before I replaced the manifold boots. I was experiencing a racing idle (~6k+) and the idle screw had no effect. Now it just gets hung up. I'll get a video posted tomorrow and hopefully that will show what's going on.
~ Ian

1974 CB550K

“In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV. You're a passive observer and it is all moving by you boringly in a frame. On a cycle the frame is gone. You're completely in contact with it all. You're in the scene, not just watching it anymore, and the sense of presence is overwhelming.” ― Robert M. Pirsig

Offline Ian_Butler

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Re: CB550 High Idle
« Reply #14 on: June 05, 2013, 06:28:08 PM »
Good news and bad news. This morning I took a video after performing the valve clearance adjustment and cam chain adjustment. It seemed to solve my 3k hanging problem... temporarily. The first video I shot was too long or something, wouldn't send from the phone. The second video, after killing and restarting the bike, introduced the same problem. I'll upload that video shortly (once my sister gives it to me). I also performed an oil change (Castrol 10-W40) and replaced the oil filter. The bike started fine afterwards. I left for a few hours and came back with the intention of putting a few miles on the bike. About 3 miles from home, it began to sputter and died. I could only get it started with full choke, full throttle, and the kick start. Electric Start would not start the bike. Even after starting, the bike would hold 3k RPM and, if I moved either throttle or choke, the bike would lose RPM and die even if the adjustments were undone. I have no idea what happened.

20 minutes later a nice man stopped by and gave me some gas and helped me to start the bike. It would run as long as I kept the revs over 2k. I stopped at the gas station, topped off the tank, and ran the electric start, it was weak but it started. I got home and tried to start the bike again to no avail. This morning it ran perfectly, better than it had ever run before. I don't know what caused this problem. Maybe some sort of obstruction in the fuel delivery?
~ Ian

1974 CB550K

“In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV. You're a passive observer and it is all moving by you boringly in a frame. On a cycle the frame is gone. You're completely in contact with it all. You're in the scene, not just watching it anymore, and the sense of presence is overwhelming.” ― Robert M. Pirsig

Offline Tews19

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Re: CB550 High Idle
« Reply #15 on: June 05, 2013, 06:34:24 PM »
Sounds like you have a charging problem.

You may want to pull the bowls. See if any jets are clogged. Even with clean carbs a dirty tank can ruin those clean carbs.

Im thinking your carbs may be dirty.
1969 Honda CB750... Basket case
1970 Honda CB750 survivor.

Offline Ian_Butler

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Re: CB550 High Idle
« Reply #16 on: June 05, 2013, 06:45:06 PM »
I was afraid that was the problem (dirty carbs). That's really sad because I haven't even put a gallon of gas through the freshly cleaned and rebuilt (all new jets and the such) carbs. If that is the problem, I'd bet the tank is to blame. The PO kreemed it. If that's the issue, I think I might be better off with a new tank.

Also, and this is the odd part for me, why full throttle?
« Last Edit: June 05, 2013, 06:46:57 PM by Ian_Butler »
~ Ian

1974 CB550K

“In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV. You're a passive observer and it is all moving by you boringly in a frame. On a cycle the frame is gone. You're completely in contact with it all. You're in the scene, not just watching it anymore, and the sense of presence is overwhelming.” ― Robert M. Pirsig

Offline Tews19

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Re: CB550 High Idle
« Reply #17 on: June 05, 2013, 06:59:25 PM »
I saw you did a bench sync. Wait till you get your carb sync tool and then mess with it. Be patient for now.
1969 Honda CB750... Basket case
1970 Honda CB750 survivor.

Offline Ian_Butler

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Re: CB550 High Idle
« Reply #18 on: June 05, 2013, 07:29:06 PM »
Yeah I figured that might have something to do with it. If that's in fact the case, why was it running so well earlier in day though? It's very demoralizing.

I decided it might be a good idea to pull the plugs. Cyl. 4 is very rich while Cyl. 1 is very lean. I don't have the proper wrench to get to the middle two yet (same shipment as the carb vac sync tool). That might help to explain.
« Last Edit: June 05, 2013, 08:01:04 PM by Ian_Butler »
~ Ian

1974 CB550K

“In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV. You're a passive observer and it is all moving by you boringly in a frame. On a cycle the frame is gone. You're completely in contact with it all. You're in the scene, not just watching it anymore, and the sense of presence is overwhelming.” ― Robert M. Pirsig

Offline TwoTired

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Re: CB550 High Idle
« Reply #19 on: June 05, 2013, 10:27:16 PM »
With carbon fouling, spark plugs get worse with operation.

When you rebuilt the carbs, did you pull and clean the main emulsion tubes behind the main jets?
Did you use new orings on the main jets?
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline Ian_Butler

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Re: CB550 High Idle
« Reply #20 on: June 06, 2013, 07:15:44 AM »
The main jets were replaced with new ones, size 100, and new o-rings were installed. The emulsion tubes were cleaned as well. When I was done they were nice and shiny with no deposits. I did set the needle clip to the middle position (I read here somewhere that the middle position worked better. It was previously one up from the bottom.
~ Ian

1974 CB550K

“In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV. You're a passive observer and it is all moving by you boringly in a frame. On a cycle the frame is gone. You're completely in contact with it all. You're in the scene, not just watching it anymore, and the sense of presence is overwhelming.” ― Robert M. Pirsig

Offline Ian_Butler

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Re: CB550 High Idle
« Reply #21 on: June 06, 2013, 08:55:49 AM »
I kicked up the bike up this morning after leaving the battery charging last night. Perfect one kick cold start. I'm beginning to wonder if I have a charging problem...
~ Ian

1974 CB550K

“In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV. You're a passive observer and it is all moving by you boringly in a frame. On a cycle the frame is gone. You're completely in contact with it all. You're in the scene, not just watching it anymore, and the sense of presence is overwhelming.” ― Robert M. Pirsig

Offline TwoTired

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Re: CB550 High Idle
« Reply #22 on: June 06, 2013, 09:01:06 AM »
I did set the needle clip to the middle position (I read here somewhere that the middle position worked better. It was previously one up from the bottom.

That's a mistake, imo.  The 022a Carbs ought to have the clip in the fourth position from the top, unless there have been induction changes and/or a more restrictive exhaust than stock.  The third position leans out the mid range throttle positions.  If you are already using ethanol diluted gasoline, that leans it out even farther.  I'd expect some odd mid-range throttle behavior, often described as "flat spots".

Having said that, if your slide needles aren't genuine Keihin parts, the needle size/profile might support a 3rd clip position.

Better check the spark plug deposits.

Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline TwoTired

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Re: CB550 High Idle
« Reply #23 on: June 06, 2013, 09:03:18 AM »
I kicked up the bike up this morning after leaving the battery charging last night. Perfect one kick cold start. I'm beginning to wonder if I have a charging problem...

Charging system methodical verification checks, CB750, CB550, CB500, CB400, and CB350.

Begin with problem verification and characterization with recorded data.
A -- Fully charge a known good battery.  Let it rest for 2 hours, off the charger, and measure the battery voltage.  (Target is 12.6-12.8V.)
B -- Start the bike and measure the battery voltage at idle, 2000, 3000, 4000, and 5000 rpm.
C -- Repeat the measurements of B with lighting off.

The above tests identify charging system success, failure, or degree of "faulty".  The success voltages are listed in the Shop manual.

D -- Assuming the above indicates faulty, do check the RECTIFIER diodes with a diode tester or ohmmeter capable of testing diodes and uses more than .7 volts to make the test(s).
Of the twelve test made in D, six must read low ohms and six must read very high ohms.

E- assuming no faults were found in D,  Measure the white and green wires disconnected from the REGULATOR.  CB750s should 6.8 ohms - ish,  CB550s/350s/ and 400s should read 4.9 ohms- ish.

F- If there are no bullet holes or road rash/divots on the alternator case, the stator is probably good.  But, you can check for yellow to yellow continuity (.35 ohms) among all the wires, and that no yellow wire has continuity to the engine case.

G- Assuming no faults found in D, E, and F, measure the disconnected terminals of the REGULATOR.  The black and white terminals should measure zero ohms (subtract meter error if there is any).  Higher than Zero ohms, indicates internal contact contamination needing cleaning and attention per shop manual.

H - Assuming D, E, F, and G have not found faults. We can verify all the of the charging system minus the regulator is functioning correctly, by using a temporary jumper to connect the disconnected white wire (normally attached to the REGULATOR) and connecting the White directly to the the battery POS terminal.  Repeat the B and C tests.  However, if at any time the battery voltage rises above 15V, stop the test.  Such an indication would prove the charging system capable of maintaining a known good battery.  If this test never achieves 15V, then there is a wire/connector issue in either the ground path leading back to the battery NEG terminal, a wiring/ connector issue withe the rectifier RED path to the battery POS terminal, or you made a mistake in D through G.

I - (not used, can be confused with L)

J -  The only parts that remain to prove or expose are the REGULATOR (in active mode) and the electrical path between the battery POS terminal and the black wire that connects to the REGULATOR.

K - Lying to and starving the regulator
The regulator can only do its job correctly if it gets a proper voltage report of true battery voltage status.  The Vreg monitors the Black wire for this status.  Measuring the voltage lost between the Battery terminals and the Vreg connections identifies problems that are not really the charging system's fault.
Two connection paths must be checked, the Battery POS terminal to the Black wire connection at the VReg, and the Battery NEG terminal to the Green wire connection to the Vreg.  A volt meter can measure these losses directly by placing a probe between the two identified points, Black path and then the green path.  The numbers are summed and the error seen by the Vreg quantified.  Anything over .5V loss is cause for concern and anything over 1V is a certain issue to be corrected.  Each connector, terminal, fuse clip, or switch in the pathway can cause voltage reporting loss.

The regulator also passes the received voltage on to to the Alternator field coil to create a magnetic field within the alternator,  The voltage level determines the strength of the magnetic field and the maximum output capability of the alternator.  Therefore, starving  the Vreg of true battery voltage leads to reduced max output capability of the alternator.

L - regulator operation/verification.
  The Vreg sends voltage to the alternator field in response to measured voltage which is battery state of charge.  Any voltage at the battery of less than 13.5V sends full black wire voltage to the alternator's white wire.  The alternator output will vary with RPM, even if "told" to produce max power by the Vreg.  If the alternator has enough RPM to overcome system load, any excess power is routed to the battery which will raise the battery voltage (slowly if depleted and rapidly if nearly full).   When the battery reaches 14.5V, the regulator reduces the voltage to the alternator, reducing output strength and preventing battery overcharge.  If the battery exceeds 14.7V, the regulator clamps the alternator field coil power to zero (0V), effective shutting off the alternator.

Because, there is electrical load from the system, an alternator that is not producing power allows the battery to deplete and the voltage falls.  The Vreg responds by turning the alternator back on in accordance with battery state/ charge level.

The Vreg state changes can be monitored/verified by observing the battery voltage state, and the White wire to the alternator field.  (Two meters are handy for this.)  The "trip" voltages can be adjusted with the adjust screw, while changing engine RPM and electrical load that the bike presents to the battery/charging system to "make" the battery reach the voltage levels need for the set trip points.  IE. with load reduced (lighting off) and the engine above 2500 RPM, a charged battery will attain 14.5 V.  Anything above that and the adjust screw needs to be backed out to keep the battery safe from harm.
The shop manual outlines bench set up mechanical adjustments that should be performed on unknown or tampered units.  These should be resolved before final trip point adjust tuning.

Note that while the system is working, the Vreg can change states rapidly before your very eyes., changing 5 times or more while you blink.  Therefore, you may have to mentally average values measured on the White wire if your selected meter doesn't do that for you.
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

Offline Ian_Butler

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Re: CB550 High Idle
« Reply #24 on: June 06, 2013, 11:23:26 AM »
TT, I'm going to change those needles back to the stock position. The needles have the same profile  (as far as I could tell visually) and flat spots are no fun, especially when I'm trying to get this bike right.

As for the charging issue, I'm going to have to get more electrical test equipment. Battery is new. I think that the system is working, but not very well. The voltage values across the terminals are high enough to indicate charging but too low per the book values. I'll begin looking into that.

Thanks!
~ Ian

1974 CB550K

“In a car you're always in a compartment, and because you're used to it you don't realize that through that car window everything you see is just more TV. You're a passive observer and it is all moving by you boringly in a frame. On a cycle the frame is gone. You're completely in contact with it all. You're in the scene, not just watching it anymore, and the sense of presence is overwhelming.” ― Robert M. Pirsig