Author Topic: 77 CB550k, SF Bay Area (Read 15008 times)

jtran000 · « **on:** May 10, 2013, 01:27:13 pm »

Hi All,

Picked up a 77 CB550k last april but been busy traveling and snowboarding so not much work has been done. Starting this build thread to get things moving along and motivate my busy ass to get going. I'm a newb to building but rode a 1998 FZR for 4 years in college.

Had her at Hayasa Motorbikes in Oakland, CA, while I was away and owner, Tyler, gave her a good tune-up. Bought a new seat cover/foam off ebay but turns out my pan is from a F model and not the original K. I ended up taking seat to a furniture upholstery store and had them cut the foam as well as reupholster the F pan. Black portion of the seat is vinyl, trim and brown center is leather. Wanted a classic feel while still able to take a passenger around town.

Hayasa synced the carbs, installed Dyna S Ignition (said my bike is cold blooded before, now it's semi-cold blooded), he recommended superbike bars instead of club/clipons until I get some rearsets. I like the superbike bars though, very comfortable, especially on longer rides, think I'll keep em. He also said she's in good condition, engine as good compression, frame is straight, despite the rusted spokes and minor rust spots throughout the bike.

Bought Napolean bar end mirrors, I like the look and visibility!

Just ordered Shinko 712 front/rear tires and new strips/tubes from Motorcycle Superstore, total for every was 130 no tax/shipping! Awesome deal, very happy, should be here end of next week. In the meantime, gotta remove the front/rear tires, they have old Metzler on that are originals (I think so). I bought new spokes off ebay so need to put those on and replace the fork seals. Hayasa said if I remove the wheels and forks I can bring them in but recommend I attempt first, wants me to learn.

The problem with lurking and reading all the builds is you just want to do EVERYTHING...but I realize that the more I want to do, the less riding there will. I think I'm going to keep things simple for now, work on handling, get her clean, get everything leaking taken care of. Not gonna do a full cafe build with crazy custom parts for this one. I'll do that on my next build. Going for a hybrid classic/cafe look.

Next step would be:
- Steel braided break lines
- drill rotors
- new break pads
- rebuild M/C (maybe buy new)

Near future:
- rebuild carbs
- replace engine gaskets
- electrical

Future Future: I'll do a complete tear down during winter and get her powder coated, tank/side covers/fenders painted (don't know what color yet).

Oh, and clean clean clean, scrub scrub scrub...

Here's some pics:

Side shot

Front/Angle

Close-up of seat - super comfy

here she is on some back roads

Damage Inc · « **Reply #1 on:** May 10, 2013, 02:08:55 pm »

G'day jtran,

I'm subscribed. Your bike is the same as mine, to a point. But in much better condition at present.
I had to laugh when I read that your already talking about your next build, it is an addictive hobby.
Keep us posted with heaps of photos.

Damage Inc

Greggo · « **Reply #2 on:** May 10, 2013, 02:25:25 pm »

Welcome to the forum! I'm just up in Berkeley if you need some help, or want to ride.

jtran000 · « **Reply #3 on:** May 10, 2013, 03:24:51 pm »

Quote from: Damage Inc on May 10, 2013, 02:08:55 pm

G'day jtran,

I'm subscribed. Your bike is the same as mine, to a point. But in much better condition at present.
I had to laugh when I read that your already talking about your next build, it is an addictive hobby.
Keep us posted with heaps of photos.

Damage Inc

i know right? if i find a beater then i'd be more inclined to do a full project, but for now I just want to enjoy the nice weather we are having in Cali (today is beautiful!) I'll post more pics when the tires come in.

jtran000 · « **Reply #4 on:** May 10, 2013, 03:27:15 pm »

Quote from: Greggo on May 10, 2013, 02:25:25 pm

Welcome to the forum! I'm just up in Berkeley if you need some help, or want to ride.

Hi Greggo! I would love to swing by some time and just hangout. I'm more of a visual learner, if someone shows me once/twice I pick it up right away. Anything you can teach I'm happy to absorb! Also, I'm willing to trade/pay for services anyone has to offer. I fly a lot so I have plenty of Southwest points, I can book you a ticket anywhere in the US

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #5 on:** May 10, 2013, 03:47:21 pm »

The late model K bikes were tuned to run a bit lean, so it doesn't surprise me it's a little cold blooded.

I had superbike bars on my '77 and really liked them. Great all around bars.

jtran000 · « **Reply #6 on:** May 13, 2013, 09:11:36 pm »

I've been hunting for aluminum rims for by bike and read GL1000 rims can be used instead, just lace with my 550 hub.

Don't know if I got a good deal on this but got it for 55, free shipping. 76 GL1000 Front Rim. New DID rims would run 100-150 from what I read.

Now to find a rear rim, any suggestions? I know the GL1000 rears are 16"-17". I would like to keep my 18" rear if possible.

Greggo · « **Reply #7 on:** May 14, 2013, 08:47:22 am »

If those spokes are OK, then you did alright on the front. The rear won't be so easy to find if you want aluminum in 18". You may have to buy new stuff, which is $$. The 17" rear from the GL's and CB750 automatics will work well, and won't look much different.

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #8 on:** May 14, 2013, 09:14:50 am »

The 75-77 GL is a 17" rear rim. Buchanan Spokes will make you conversion spokes to lace to your stock hub, but they are pricey.

jtran000 · « **Reply #9 on:** May 14, 2013, 10:58:37 am »

@ Greggo and Bankerdanny

Buchanan Spokes/Rims are so pricey, looking at north of 200+ per rim! I get OCD when I want something so I've been scouring ebay for a rear 18" D.I.D. rim and look what I found for 60 shipped

D.I.D. Chrome 40 Spoked Rim 1.85x18

A coworker and fellow enthusiast confirmed that they will fit. He used to race motocross/mtn bike. Says rims are rims, just make sure they are straight and as long as you marry them to the correct hub you'll fine.
Tires are coming in this week. Trying to decide if I want to powder coat them black or not. Greggo, anyone in the bay area that's affordable, or should I just paint them myself and throw in oven to cure?

edit: I just realized my rims are different styles

, and the 18s arent aluminum... Back on the hunt.

jtran000 · « **Reply #10 on:** July 21, 2013, 11:02:22 pm »

Alright, been awhile since I've had a change to update. Since my last post, I've been traveling a #$%* ton for work so all I could really do was order parts in the meantime.

Last few posts was about getting some aluminum rims. Bought a WM2 1.85 X 18 -40 hole Borrani/Akront style flanged alloy vintage motorcycle rim off ebay. After receiving the GL rim, the spoke nipples were rusted in an no about of wd40, scrubbing, soaking in vinegar would loosen them up, ended up getting our shop guy to cut them off for me

. A lot of crud and scrubbing to get them clean but well worth the effort.

GLRIM getting despoked

GL Rim crud

GL Rim after crud removal

GL Rim after powder coat

Ebay rim after powder coat

jtran000 · « **Reply #11 on:** July 21, 2013, 11:34:23 pm »

Today was the first real day of working on my baby. I've spent so much time reading and gathering the right tools, organizing my loot, and watching hours of 'how to videos' on youtube, it's nice to get my hands dirty for a change.

I actually had to stop riding her because the forks were leaking so bad the ride was getting bumping and unsafe, also, the threading on the 30+ year old tires were showing so it's time to get to work replacing them.

I really just wanted to replace the fork seals and pop the new tires on the old rims and call it a day. It's summer and the weather in the Bay Area is so beautiful I feel like I'm missing out. I was just planning lacing the hubs with new spokes onto the aluminum rims, pop on the tires, replace the fork seals and call it quits until winter. However, after going through all the labor just to front and rear wheels off, removing the forks and popping out the seals, I'm getting more inclined to do things once and do things right.

What do you guys think? Get everything on so I can ride BUT then have to remove everything in the winter so I can polish the front/rear hubs, replace the bearings or just do it now and get it over with.

I'm a bit lucky that the riding weather in the Bay Area is almost year round, so I technically can take my time.

Anywho, here she is on cheap lift I got off ebay, superbars removed, front and rear wheels removed, forks removed.

Forks disassembled, I had to take them to the gas station and use their impact driver to remove the 6mm bolt on the bottom

Question, the cb550 fork seal replacement video on youtube says to clean them with lacquer thinner. I bought some from Lowes but afraid to used them so I just wiped everything down as best as I can. If I do use lacquer thinner to clean the lower tubes, how do I clean the thinner out? I'm afraid it'll eat away at the new seals after i install them.

The engine needs a lot of work. There's a lot of leaking and after removing the exhaust (which had minor pitting) things look very dirty inside. Excuse my technical lingo, I'm still learning the vocab.

All the exhaust openings look pretty much like this

Question, on partsnmore.com, they don't sell the copper crush exhaust gaskets, they have these flat silver looking ones for the 77-78 cb550k. where can i get the copper ones everyone talks about which are the one's I see in the exhaust opening? They have them on ebay and dimecity but they're pretty pricey.

Aright, time for some shut eye. Have a day trip to Boise State tomorrow. I'll post pics of my new loot when I get back.

free85 · « **Reply #12 on:** July 22, 2013, 07:07:28 am »

For what it's worth, I got mine in a gasket set -- which I figured I needed as the gaskets need replacing in my 78 CB550K project.

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #13 on:** July 22, 2013, 07:35:57 am »

I am trying to imagine why you would need to use anything at all on the INNER part of the lowers. I might use laquer thinner on the outside to remove the yellowed clear coat as part of my polishing efforts.

I have done 3 sets of forks in the past 2 years and I haven't done enything but drain the old oil, replace the seals, reassemble, and add new oil.

I suppose the theory is that grit could have found its way inside and the thinner will wash out the remains of the old oil any any contaminents. Still, the factory manual doesn't recommend anything like that, and I don't recall any other tutorial on seal replacement that does. Skip that part.

jtran000 · « **Reply #14 on:** July 30, 2013, 12:05:37 pm »

Finally finished by forks! First time sanding and polishing. Started with 220, 300, 600 and then wet sanded 1100 and 2200 sandpaper. I didn't have a bench polisher so I used a corded drill with attachments, brown the white bars. I was so tempted to get a bench polisher from HF but didn't want to spend the 40 bucks, however, after 4-5 hours I might bite the bullet and buy it. It took quiet a long time since I was reading/watching vids/learning as I was working but the end results was well worth it.

One thing, how tied do I need to screw the bottom, 6mm, drain screw? It's still leaking a bit.

Also, when I installed the fork seals, the first one I did I tapped the seals well below where the ring clamp is installed, the other fork seal was installed flush the the ring clamp. Am I going to have any issues with it being far below the clamp?

Right is before and left is after sanding.

Both lower tubes after polishing.

New fork seals installed and forks rebuilt. Look how shiny they are!!!! Felt so good to see all that hard work turn something ugly to something beautiful. Next time, i probably won't use the 220 and 300 grit, left too many scratches.

jtran000 · « **Reply #15 on:** July 30, 2013, 12:14:56 pm »

Just purchased some odds and ends, new LED signals from amazon, 7" visor from ebay, new air filter from david silver spares (ones I have had the filter removed and a foam cutout installed...) and throttle tube (old one is cracked an the end), new front/rear breaks pads and exhaust gaskets from partsNmore.

Alright, I've been eyeing a new exhaust, thinking about the Marshalls Deeptone, bit pricey at 400+. I can save 100 and go for the MAC but I don't like the way it looks and from the YouTube vids they sound like a rattle can. Not planning to change the airfilter as I like having the airbox. I know I'll need to rejet.

Did a bit of a search and haven't found too many riders with the Marshalls, most have Kerkers or MAC, I know Motad makes a 4in1, also.

Here's the link to the Marshalls which is being sold stateside by Laser:
http://www.laser-exhausts.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?search=action&category=1318

David Silver Spares is selling the Motad:
http://www.davidsilverspares.com/motad/part_193306/

dohcdelsol93 · « **Reply #16 on:** July 30, 2013, 12:26:35 pm »

mac exhaust doesn't sound too bad in person. Removing baffle and drilling more/bigger holes would probably also help out the sound.

re-jetting isn't too hard, with the air box its a super PITA

right now my 76cb550 (with 77cb550 engine/carbs) is running stock air box and mac4-1 with stock jets. Mine are reamed out just a bit but not enough to really account for anything. The needles on slides set to 3rd notch from top.

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #17 on:** July 30, 2013, 01:02:09 pm »

I've been doing a lot of polishing lately and I find that starting with 400 grit is sufficient unless you have some really deep scratches that you need to remove.

jtran000 · « **Reply #18 on:** July 30, 2013, 02:11:14 pm »

Quote from: Bankerdanny on July 30, 2013, 01:02:09 pm

I've been doing a lot of polishing lately and I find that starting with 400 grit is sufficient unless you have some really deep scratches that you need to remove.

Kind of sucks finding this out after the sanding, upon closer inspections you can definitely see the scratches, but 1-2 feet away it's not noticeable. It also doesn't help that I do my work around 9pm since work and social functions take up most of my daylight hours.

jtran000 · « **Reply #19 on:** July 30, 2013, 02:14:38 pm »

Quote from: dohcdelsol93 on July 30, 2013, 12:26:35 pm

mac exhaust doesn't sound too bad in person. Removing baffle and drilling more/bigger holes would probably also help out the sound.

re-jetting isn't too hard, with the air box its a super PITA

right now my 76cb550 (with 77cb550 engine/carbs) is running stock air box and mac4-1 with stock jets. Mine are reamed out just a bit but not enough to really account for anything. The needles on slides set to 3rd notch from top.

just looked at your build, super awesome, can you some higher res pics? I read on here that rejetting with pods is more difficult?

DustyRags · « **Reply #20 on:** July 31, 2013, 12:54:42 pm »

Bay Area native rebuilding a 550? I'm in!

jtran000 · « **Reply #21 on:** July 31, 2013, 03:38:20 pm »

Quote from: DustyRags on July 31, 2013, 12:54:42 pm

Bay Area native rebuilding a 550? I'm in!

Hi Dusty!

Just signed up for a wheel replacement class at the MotoShop in South SF. Problem, I need to replace my hubs and they don't do it. Some of the former employees at Charlie's Place just opened a shop down the street from MotoShop said they'd do it for me but it'll cost 80/hr for 3 hours, this doesn't including balancing. If I lace the wheels myself it'll just cost me money to balance and true, which I believe would be about 100. Gonna try and tackle the lacing tonight, I'm sure with all the tutorials on youtube and this forum I wouldn't have a problem if I take my time.

MotoShop said they'll replace my bearings for 30, I'm just not comfortable taking out the retainers from the hubs. I'm more of a handson visual learner, if I see it once I can do it myself after.

Here's their link: http://esotericcycles.com/esoteric/home.html

DustyRags · « **Reply #22 on:** July 31, 2013, 04:35:24 pm »

Check out Addiction Motors in Oakland- they're a tech shop sort of place- you can rent space, take classes, and have pros help you out. They may know what you need to know/have the tools.

jtran000 · « **Reply #23 on:** August 08, 2013, 10:31:08 pm »

Front and rear hubs etched/primed, painted black and clear coated. Gonna take off the tape tomorrow to make sure everything is dry. For those who painted their hub, did you clear coat?

jtran000 · « **Reply #24 on:** August 08, 2013, 10:50:05 pm »

Here's the front hub after a bit of cleaning/sanding, to the left is the GL hub i got my aluminum rim from

Front and rear hub taped and painted:

Super handy tools that has shaved of a lot of time elbow greasing:

found this baby in my dads shed!

allowed me to quickly clean the rusted nuts and bolts:

Do I need to coat the nuts and bolts after cleaning the rust off? I was thinking of spraying WD-40 on them unless there are better suggestions.

News:

Author Topic: 77 CB550k, SF Bay Area (Read 15008 times)