Topic: Steering head bearings: this is a lot of work

[Schnell]

Just thinking through the logistics in anticipation of this job.

Disconnect speedo cable, remove front wheel, fender, and disconnect brake line, THEN there's all the electrical cables between the chassis and the controls on the bars, headlight and gauges. Snap!

I guess the handle bar could be disconnected from the triple tree, and left draped across the tank? What about the gauges and headlight?

Could someone who's done this share any tips to reduce unnecessary steps/work, please?

[Tews19]

Its really simple actually. I do this to all my bikes. Do you have internal wiring for the hand controls?  If so not a big deal.

Put bike on center stand. Or on lift. Remove tire. The brake on the lower triple. You can leave the wires in the handle bars just in the bucket.

Make sure before its lifted that you loosen up the 14mm bolts on the lower triple. Remove the fork tubes. Loosen the center cap and the stem should come out.

A little more goes into it but its real easy.

[70CB750]

I left the brake caliper on - just tied it with a piece of wire.

The handlebars same thing - I tied them to the celing somehow to make sure no wires get torn off or pulled out.  It feels much trickier than it really is.

[DJ_AX]

yep ... Like everything I've done so far on these bikes.... the anticipation is often more energy consuming than actually doing it. lol

[Schnell]

The second time doing something is more than twice as easy as the first time, having had the experience. This is my first time doing this.

[754]

Try tying the handlebars and instruments with top tree  all together from up  above as suggested. But. Remove tank to be safe..if you change to tapered rollers, the fork/lower tree will be way easier to remove after that..

[KennyRedman]

yep ... Like everything I've done so far on these bikes.... the anticipation is often more energy consuming than actually doing it. lol

So true!

[gto_ron]

I'm also anticipating replacing my steering head bearings. I have the AllBalls kit.  What other parts will I need?  Should  I replace other seals?

Thanks for any responses

Ron

[bjbuchanan]

While doing the bare minimum for the job you won't run in to any other seals to replace for the hell of it

Fork seals leak when its time to rehab so it has a tell tale sign. If the caliper isn't locked up or weeping then no caliper seal either. Pretty much it for the "localized" area

[70CB750]

Remember to put the fat washer under the bearing race before you press it on - and dont ask me why I stress this point

[bjbuchanan]

Remember to put the fat washer under the bearing race before you press it on - and dont ask me why I stress this point

Really good point

[Schnell]

Remember to put the fat washer under the bearing race before you press it on - and dont ask me why I stress this point

Are you referring to the top or bottom (or both) bearings?

[70CB750]

The bottom bearing, the one right above the steel bracket.  Once you get the bearing on it, it will not come off easily.

[Schnell]

The bottom bearing, the one right above the steel bracket.  Once you get the bearing on it, it will not come off easily.

Okay, thanks for the tip!

[754]

You mean ifyou are running tapered roller  version, correct?))

[70CB750]

Yes.

[andy750]

In this middle of doing this myself....All Balls Kit





Of course then I thought Id change the torn fork gaiters and change the leaking for seals....and the gauge lights need replacing - then I found out the gauge wiring needed replacing....

Good luck!
Andy

[RSchaefer]

I'm thinking there is also a rubber grease seal 1st, then the big washer and then the bearing?  I'm thinking the rubber seal is to help hold in the grease on the bottom bearing?

[Schnell]

Those pictures are very helpful, thanks! You've got everything disconnected and unplugged. I was hoping to minimize that collateral work.