Topic: Setting points with an ohm meter

[Sixgunsrattlesnake]

Anyone have instructions or a link

[xsmooth69x]

multi meter would work too but you need some gator clip ends. trying to do the timing holding the muti meter needle lead things would be horrible.......

if you do want to use the multi meter just set it to the thing where it makes a beeeeppppp when you connect the 2 leads together.

place one on the points plate and the other on the point. ull hear a beep when the points are touching and no beep when they arnt.

timing light in the video is the same concept but a light instead of a beeeeppppppppppppppppppppp


Vintage Sled Tutorials #7 How to make a timing light for setting points

[bjbuchanan]

I use one of those cheap LED circuit testers, I'm talking dollar store stuff. It may be easier because it is one handed operation and has the nice red light that lights up instead of reading the dial

[shark]

I followed this:

http://www.hondachopper.com/garage/carb_info/timing/timing1.html


I used a analogue meter and attached to points using jumper wires.

[Sixgunsrattlesnake]

Ive got gator clips on mine so i should be good.

[xsmooth69x]

Ive got gator clips on mine so i should be good.

ow, you have one of them there fance meters 

[lucky]

Anyone have instructions or a link

The most accurate result is by using a volt /ohm meter set on the ohms X 1000 scale. Ignition OFF.

If you use a 12 v light bulb or AM radio it will not be as close.
The reason the 12v bulb is not as good is because it takes a certain amount of resistance to light up the bulb and by the time the bulb lights up the mark has went way past the point the points started to open.

[bjbuchanan]

That is why an the cheap LED ones are nice, low to no resistance so they light right up. Reg bulbs not so much

[xsmooth69x]

ya i actually used an LED version of that light in the video

[Sixgunsrattlesnake]

Ive got gator clips on mine so i should be good.

ow, you have one of them there fance meters 

not so much, i just soldered a set of gator clips onto the posts...


I didn't like the light bulb method last time i used it. so I was going to try and go for the OHM meter this time and see how that went. seems like it would be easier.

[cooldrum]

Hi , jbugs sells a static timing light (led) with alligator clips to time old school vw bugs. I ordered one to time my k4 and am pleased with the results. I checked the advance using a strobe and timing was spot on. I know you can make your own static light, but this should be in your tool box.  Russ

[750K]

I like the Ohm meter, works well and if I'm ever away from home and need to static time my 750 any hardware/auto parts store has a cheap meter.

[lucky]

If you really want to make sure the points are set correctly you need to get a DWELL METER.

[Sixgunsrattlesnake]

ok.... so does anyone have instruction/steps for using an ohmmeter...

[iron_worker]

Here is how I did mine and I checked with a timing strobe and my base timing was bang on.

1)Unplug the points from the coils at the bullet connectors. Remove the points cover. Set your points gap to spec.
2) Hook one end of your meter to one of the POINT SIDE bullet connectors of the 1/4 points and  one end to a known good ground.
3) Turn your meter onto it's lowest ohm range or if you have the ones that beep when a connection is made then that could be useful too.
4) Turn the engine over slowly clockwise with the large nut under the points cover. Key doesn't need to be on.
5) When the points are closed, you should see that you have a connection between your leads. IE the resistance is 0 (or very close to it). When the points open the meter will change to infinite resistance. You want to find the point right where the reading begins to flicker back and forth between infinite and 0.
6) At this point, check where your timing marks are in relation to the pointer. If the "F" is not lined up with the pointer then advance or retard the timing plate by loosening the screws to the backing plate and rotating.
7) Go around again and double check your results to ensure that your meter just goes to 0 as your timing markers line up.
Switch the meter end from the 1-4 points wire to the 2-3 points wire and repeat the same process for the other set of points. In this case you only adjust the smaller points plate and not the entire plate like you did for 1-4.
9) Recheck your points gaps and adjust again. If you need to adjust the gaps then you will need to check the timing again as above. Points gap affects timing!


NOTE: Another method that you could try: Line up your timing pointer with the "F" mark and adjust your timing plate until the meter just begins to read infinte or no connection. A bit less trial and error this way I think.

Hope this helps. It can be a bit frustrating to set timing and gap since it's a bit of an itterative process. Go in with your patience full. Also, if you have cheap Daiichi points then you're in for a struggle. ha I would recommend OEM points on the OEM plate.

IW

[750cafe]

Subscribed.
Interesting thread.

Eric

[lucky]

multi meter would work too but you need some gator clip ends. trying to do the timing holding the muti meter needle lead things would be horrible.......

if you do want to use the multi meter just set it to the thing where it makes a beeeeppppp when you connect the 2 leads together.

place one on the points plate and the other on the point. ull hear a beep when the points are touching and no beep when they arnt.

timing light in the video is the same concept but a light instead of a beeeeppppppppppppppppppppp


Vintage Sled Tutorials #7 How to make a timing light for setting points

When you rotate the engine you will hear the beep on the multimeter when the points JUST START TO OPEN.
That is what releases the power to the secondary windings of the coil and then to the spark plug.

[lucky]

Ive got gator clips on mine so i should be good.

ow, you have one of them there fance meters 

FANCY not fance.  Just saying.

[Sixgunsrattlesnake]

Here is how I did mine and I checked with a timing strobe and my base timing was bang on.

1)Unplug the points from the coils at the bullet connectors. Remove the points cover. Set your points gap to spec.
2) Hook one end of your meter to one of the POINT SIDE bullet connectors of the 1/4 points and  one end to a known good ground.
3) Turn your meter onto it's lowest ohm range or if you have the ones that beep when a connection is made then that could be useful too.
4) Turn the engine over slowly clockwise with the large nut under the points cover. Key doesn't need to be on.
5) When the points are closed, you should see that you have a connection between your leads. IE the resistance is 0 (or very close to it). When the points open the meter will change to infinite resistance. You want to find the point right where the reading begins to flicker back and forth between infinite and 0.
6) At this point, check where your timing marks are in relation to the pointer. If the "F" is not lined up with the pointer then advance or retard the timing plate by loosening the screws to the backing plate and rotating.
7) Go around again and double check your results to ensure that your meter just goes to 0 as your timing markers line up.
Switch the meter end from the 1-4 points wire to the 2-3 points wire and repeat the same process for the other set of points. In this case you only adjust the smaller points plate and not the entire plate like you did for 1-4.
9) Recheck your points gaps and adjust again. If you need to adjust the gaps then you will need to check the timing again as above. Points gap affects timing!


NOTE: Another method that you could try: Line up your timing pointer with the "F" mark and adjust your timing plate until the meter just begins to read infinte or no connection. A bit less trial and error this way I think.

Hope this helps. It can be a bit frustrating to set timing and gap since it's a bit of an itterative process. Go in with your patience full. Also, if you have cheap Daiichi points then you're in for a struggle. ha I would recommend OEM points on the OEM plate.

IW

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU.
My patience is on full. However I am off to work.... bah...
But now I think I've got it....
Thank you

[bollingball]

Ive got gator clips on mine so i should be good.

ow, you have one of them there fance meters 

FANCY not fance.  Just saying.

I think fance is just fine when you use it after them there.
Ken

[bollingball]

If you really want to make sure the points are set correctly you need to get a DWELL METER.

+1 and you can get one at sears with a tachometer on it that is a lot better than the one on your bike. I have had one like this one over 25 years maybe 35
http://www.sears.com/sunpro-actron-cp7605-dwell-tachometer-voltmeter-analyzer/p-SPM6368316508?prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6

Ken

[iron_worker]

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU.
My patience is on full. However I am off to work.... bah...
But now I think I've got it....
Thank you

You're welcome. Good luck.

IW

[lucky]

Ive got gator clips on mine so i should be good.

ow, you have one of them there fance meters 

FANCY not fance.  Just saying.

I think fance is just fine when you use it after them there.
Ken

Yes,yes quite right.

[Sixgunsrattlesnake]

getting down to it today

[lucky]

multi meter would work too but you need some gator clip ends. trying to do the timing holding the muti meter needle lead things would be horrible.......

if you do want to use the multi meter just set it to the thing where it makes a beeeeppppp when you connect the 2 leads together.

place one on the points plate and the other on the point. ull hear a beep when the points are touching and no beep when they arnt.

timing light in the video is the same concept but a light instead of a beeeeppppppppppppppppppppp


Vintage Sled Tutorials #7 How to make a timing light for setting points

I will say this one more time.

Setting the points will be more accurate if you do NOT use a beeper or a light.
The reason why is that a beeper or a light causes resistance and delays the points opening timing.

Learn to use the ohm meter function.

Use the Ohms X 1000 scale is the most sensitive.

If you do not believe me do it both ways and notice the difference of
when you get the signal.