Author Topic: Can hose clamps and softening rubber boots cure climbing RPMs? (Read 6141 times)

bjbuchanan · « **Reply #25 on:** May 27, 2013, 11:28:21 AM »

I would just pull the advancer and lube it up regardless because it is good to know your advancer is free and lubed. You could always check with a timing light

Weak springs will show timing flutter at like 1000~ rpm, if you can get it that low to just check. Then try to advance it smoothly to 2500 where it should be fully advanced to the for hashes. It should advance smoothly and hold steady at that mark to redline. If it flutters and skips to the full mark then you have weak springs and/or sticking advancer.

Jore · « **Reply #26 on:** May 27, 2013, 11:58:25 AM »

What type of lube should I use for that?

bjbuchanan · « **Reply #27 on:** May 27, 2013, 01:13:52 PM »

Our bikes have hardened surfaces there so pretty much any type of regular oil is what I use. I have this super sticky but lightweight synthetic two stroke oil that I use for that stuff. I just have it laying around but anything should work. It is more important to make it clean and smooth operating

Special advancer cam lube isn't really necessary. I'm sure some will disagree but the hardened surfaces we have are a fact

phil71 · « **Reply #28 on:** May 27, 2013, 01:27:15 PM »

i use gun oil. I don't have any guns.

Jore · « **Reply #29 on:** May 27, 2013, 04:36:34 PM »

I have some 2 stroke stuff so I'll give that a try.

As for removing the points plate, is it just a matter of removing the 3 screws that hold it or is there something else I'm missing?

bollingball · « **Reply #30 on:** May 27, 2013, 04:55:17 PM »

Quote from: phil71 on May 27, 2013, 01:27:15 PM

i use gun oil. I don't have any guns.

I do. Do you need some or one? if not send me your oil

I will send you some pig fat

jk
Ken

bjbuchanan · « **Reply #31 on:** May 27, 2013, 04:59:18 PM »

10 mm bolt inside of the big sucker that you use to turn the engine over, that is what you actually use to hold cam in place. A little tap of the point plate and it pops free

Make sure you mark the plate before removal so you can put it back

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=121142.0

Check that thread out for some helpful tips

bollingball · « **Reply #32 on:** May 27, 2013, 05:04:54 PM »

Quote from: Jore on May 27, 2013, 04:36:34 PM

I have some 2 stroke stuff so I'll give that a try.

As for removing the points plate, is it just a matter of removing the 3 screws that hold it or is there something else I'm missing?

That is it other than any wires going to the points. Like said make a mark around those three screw heads so you put it back in the same spot.

Ken

Jore · « **Reply #33 on:** May 27, 2013, 05:11:04 PM »

Thanks i'll get to that.

Jore · « **Reply #34 on:** May 28, 2013, 03:48:37 PM »

So, I "fixed" the intake boots with epoxy and rtv. Started the bike and it ran smooth, idled nicely at around 800-900 rpm, I stoped it and started it a few times and it was all the same.

Decided to test my charging system, and then it all went downhill, when I revved the bike to around 3000, the revs just stayed there, so I'm guessing the advancer was closed before (during the starting and idling) and once I gave it some gas it opened up and didn't close again.

Rookster · « **Reply #35 on:** May 28, 2013, 04:20:31 PM »

OK, You have to stop assuming and start diagnosing. Check for an air leak as described in the above posts. Physically check and lube the advancer. You will need to check your float levels as well as the condition and routing of your cables. Lube the cables as a rule. I didn't see if you posted which model you have but if you can adjust the slides up or down, adjust them down a little. There will be an idle screw to raise them if needed. Turn your air screws out 1 turn as a start and leave them there. All of these things I just mentioned will cost you nothing but a can of wd40 or better lubricant. Check them all before continuing. I don't know if you checked your jets or not but it is a good idea to check and make sure they are all the same and clean.

Once you have a baseline setting you can work forward. If it still acts the same the next step is a vacuum sync. You will need to do this anyway but get everything else sorted first.

Scott

Jore · « **Reply #36 on:** May 28, 2013, 09:46:00 PM »

I have a '75 400. Air screws are about 1 and 1/2 turns out. Floats are at 22 mm, but I have problem with the valves sealing, so I might as well take another look with the float settings, while i seat the valves or get new ones. Jets, and emulsifier tubes are clean, as are the carbs (took them apart and boiled them in water with lemon juice before putting them back together).

I'm planning on changing the throttle cables before or during this weekend.

Thanks for the input.

phil71 · « **Reply #37 on:** May 29, 2013, 07:49:49 AM »

a problem with the valves sealing? What do you mean?

Jore · « **Reply #38 on:** May 29, 2013, 07:54:37 AM »

the valves in the carbs, needles? the ones that control fuel going in to the bowls

phil71 · « **Reply #39 on:** May 29, 2013, 08:19:55 AM »

Oh. the needle and seat. they ALL leak?

Jore · « **Reply #40 on:** May 29, 2013, 12:06:48 PM »

At least 2 do leak, but it's intermittent, sometimes one will leak, sometimes 2, sometimes all, It's all random.

phil71 · « **Reply #41 on:** May 30, 2013, 10:11:12 AM »

clean 'em out real good. Should help. If they're rubber tipped needles, might be time to replace them.

flybox1 · « **Reply #42 on:** May 30, 2013, 02:27:18 PM »

if its random ,its most likely sediment in the fuel or from your tank.
shake tank and drain some gas into a glass jar.
anything fall to the bottom?

Jore · « **Reply #43 on:** May 30, 2013, 03:35:56 PM »

I do have some junk coming out, kind of sand looking, so I'll clean the tank and the carbs again.

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Author Topic: Can hose clamps and softening rubber boots cure climbing RPMs? (Read 6141 times)

bollingball

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