Author Topic: Clutch help needed...yeah Ive already looked for solutions on here (VIDEO ADDED) (Read 2993 times)

PastorIke · « **on:** February 16, 2012, 10:50:41 AM »

well...I got my bike all together after painting and polishing it...got it running and was ready to put the finishing touches on getting everything hooked up. Everything was going well until I couldnt get my clutch to engage. Even manually pulling the clutch lever up on the engine I couldnt get it to engage. I then manually shifted into first and pulled up on the lever again and still couldnt get it to engage. I adjusted the clutch adjustment, but it made no difference all the way in or all the way out. So I took the cover off and made sure the clutch lifter rod was in place and not broken...found it to be fine. so I took the four bolts off of the pressure plate and pulled the springs and plate to make sure the plates werent locked up together...they are all seperated. So after having this things right side cover off about 12 times, looking at exploded views to make sure everythings there and creeping around on here reading, I still havent figured it out. Its a simple system but I cant seem to figure it out...anyone got any ideas? BTW its a 77 CB550k...it worked fine before I took the cover off to polish it...now I have no idea what is going on...anyone got any ideas?

Tugboat · « **Reply #1 on:** February 16, 2012, 10:53:12 AM »

Are you missing the little ball bearing that goes inside the lifter?

dave500 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 16, 2012, 11:34:55 AM »

its a 550 tugboat,no ball in these,,do you mean it wont disengage drive pastor?

PastorIke · « **Reply #3 on:** February 16, 2012, 11:39:20 AM »

I start it in neutral, pull up on the clutch lever on the engine and when I press the shifter down it jumps forward and dies...it doesn't matter what I adjust one the clutch I can't get it to disengage the plates...the plates aren't stuck and like I said I took the clutch lever and cable completely out of the equation and still can't get it to clutch at all

Van-van · « **Reply #4 on:** February 16, 2012, 11:51:02 AM »

Is the spring in the cover on top of the lifter lever?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

PastorIke · « **Reply #5 on:** February 16, 2012, 11:57:11 AM »

yes sir it is...working on trying to upload a video to show what I have...to me, everything looks like it should work...so frustrating!!!

PastorIke · « **Reply #6 on:** February 16, 2012, 12:19:04 PM »

Here is a video showing what I have...tell me if you see anything wrong, missing, or out of place cause I cant figure it out

y2kc0wb0y · « **Reply #7 on:** February 16, 2012, 01:08:13 PM »

Sorry no sound at work. Can you manually work/dis-engage the clutch pack by pushing on the rod? Maybe leaning on it with a hammer or something?

TwoTired · « **Reply #8 on:** February 16, 2012, 01:28:47 PM »

First terminology: At rest the 4 springs squeeze all the plates together, which serves to lock them together and they will spin together making the clutch engaged.
When the springs are compressed, half the plates spin with the drum and the other plates spin with the inner drum/shaft allowing the components to spin at different rates. This is the Dis-engaged condition:

If the plates are worn too thin, the plates may not lock together preventing engagement.
The plates must be able to slide in the outer drum AND the alternate plate must slide on the inner drum splines.

The springs are strong, don't expect to push that shaft in with your hands. It needs the mechanical advantage of both the cover mechanism AND the clutch lever to overcome the spring force.

Are you certain that none of the plates that go onto the inner drum have fit properly onto the splines? If that last one was shifted to not align, the clutch pack can't be squeezed together properly, or disengage from the pressure plate.

So, let us know for sure if your clutch is not engaging or disengaging.

Do you have the Honda shop manual for the bike?

Cheers,

andrewk · « **Reply #9 on:** February 16, 2012, 01:38:16 PM »

Sound works for me. Looks like the fork/lever is moving sufficiently and isn't worn excessively- For how much play you had in the actuation lever with the cover on the bike, it makes me wonder if your adjuster is working correctly, and it's difficult to tell in the video what it looks like in that area- it almost looks like the adjuster bolt is loose of the lever?

Do you feel any resistance from the springs at all? Is it possible they aren't seated all the way?

PastorIke · « **Reply #10 on:** February 16, 2012, 02:47:43 PM »

I may have found out what is wrong. Off of a hunch I took two of the springs off and only put two bolts on (the ones the springs were on)...then I tried not tightening them down all the way and let the spring tension keep the bolts tight. I then put the cover back on and suddenly had adjustment back in my adjuster and was able to start the bike in neutral...pull the clutch lever up on the right side cover and put the bike into 1st without it lurching forward or dying. I then put the clutch cable back on and set the adjustment to where it would engage and disengage. Was even able to take the bike around the block. So am I right in my thinking that the springs are wore out? Are those 4 bolts supposed to be tightened down all the way to where the threaded stud and the pressure plate are touching or are they just supposed to be tightened against the spring tension?

andrewk · « **Reply #11 on:** February 16, 2012, 03:40:43 PM »

The bolts should be all the way tight- they have a torque spec, but I don't recall it off the top of my head.

I would measure your springs to see if they're collapsed (manual has a service limit) but would say it's more likely that something was bound up a bit- I would put all four back in and see what happens.

dave500 · « **Reply #12 on:** February 16, 2012, 08:47:19 PM »

if the springs are worn out the clutch will slip,those bolts must be tightend all the way home.

Johnie · « **Reply #13 on:** February 17, 2012, 06:18:25 AM »

And to be safe I wanted to mention you tighten those clutch plate bolts evenly, a little at a time. On the CB750 if you try to rush it and do not tighten them evenly you will end up with a broken clutch plate.

dergs713 · « **Reply #14 on:** May 29, 2013, 09:13:26 PM »

Did you ever figure out what was wrong w your clutch. I'm in the same boat...
Matt

xsmooth69x · « **Reply #15 on:** May 29, 2013, 10:04:26 PM »

are you supposed to grease that magnetic ball shaft thing?

dave500 · « **Reply #16 on:** May 29, 2013, 10:17:14 PM »

if your talking about the 550 short double ball ended part no,its splashed with the oil,the 500 external section of the long shaft should be greased where it enters the action unit.

xsmooth69x · « **Reply #17 on:** May 29, 2013, 10:49:48 PM »

Quote from: dave500 on May 29, 2013, 10:17:14 PM

if your talking about the 550 short double ball ended part no,its splashed with the oil,the 500 external section of the long shaft should be greased where it enters the action unit.

ok just making sure

LesterPiglet · « **Reply #18 on:** May 30, 2013, 01:52:03 AM »

Have you put the final top cover on wrong? The one that the four bolts go through. As I recall there is only one correct way for it to be installed, it will go on and not disengage if it's in the wrong orientation.
I had to add a spot of weld on my bottom adjusting bolt to lengthen it as it had worn down so much.

dave500 · « **Reply #19 on:** May 30, 2013, 02:24:09 AM »

original poster last active march 11 2012,so long as the tangs all slot together and the four bolts align you cant get it wrong if you tried.

LesterPiglet · « **Reply #20 on:** May 30, 2013, 04:06:18 AM »

Must have coffee. $:-\$

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Author Topic: Clutch help needed...yeah Ive already looked for solutions on here (VIDEO ADDED) (Read 2993 times)