Topic: Oil drain

[fendersrule]

Do you guys only drain the oil tank (plug), pan (plug), and filter? Are there more plugs to remove on a 78?

[Johnie]

That should do it. Don't lose the crush washers on the drain bolts.

[flybox1]

Do you guys only drain the oil tank (plug), pan (plug), and filter? Are there more plugs to remove on a 78?

yep, just those.   

[Bob Wessner]

That should do it. Don't lose the crush washers on the drain bolts.

And don't lose the thin washer in the filter canister. Easy to do.

[fendersrule]

Hi guys,

I didn't see a thin washer in the oil canister. All I saw was:

Oil Canister w/ O-ring -> Spring -> Oil Filter

I assume that if it ran well without it, not needed?

[Bankerdanny]

There is a thin stainless washer on the inside that sits under the spring where it contacts the filter. They often stick to the old filter when you remove it.

[70CB750]

If you can find a magnet from an old hard drive -stick it on the face of the filter cartridge.  Like this:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=103432.0

[bollingball]

The only reason for the washer is to keep the end of the spring from cutting into the rubber end of the filter and to give even pressure on the filter. If you feel the end of the spring and file down any sharp burrs it will be just fine.

Ken

[fendersrule]

I do have a couple old harddrives that I've been meaning to through out. I'll take a look again, but the filter was just a filter when I removed it. I made sure to pay special attention to anything that could fall.

[bollingball]

I do have a couple old harddrives that I've been meaning to through out. I'll take a look again, but the filter was just a filter when I removed it. I made sure to pay special attention to anything that could fall.

There should be two o-rings with the new filter one for the bolt and one for the filter housing. If the one for the bolt is OK then save the new one when you get three you can use them for the oil pump
Ken

[fendersrule]

Interesting. There was just one O-ring in the Oil filter box, and it was for the housing. No other o-ring was provided.

I'll take some pictures later today. Didn't think changing the oil was going to be a hardcore endevour! Hopefully I will be able to ride this weekend.

[ekpent]

Should take about 30 minutes at a relaxed pace to change the oil     Hopefully your oil filter bolt came loose easily if its your first time and don't overtighten the oil pan drain bolt when reinstalling 

[fendersrule]

I have looked long and hard, and there is no washer that sits in between the spring and the filter. I even carefully dumped my oil drain pan to make sure.

The old filter's rubber looked great (which was making contact with the spring). I have a couple options:

1) File down any burs on the spring and reinstall it like it was and not worry about it. There's other fish to fry, such as putting back on my stock airbox. I could also slap on some harddrive magnets on the filter.

2) Make some trips to the hardware store to find a washer to use (just big enough to cover the rubber part of the filter, but yet has a big enough hole that matches the hole of the rubber. I think this will be very hard to do, especially if I'm to have a specific width.

3) Order the Honda washer, and not ride the bike for another week. Make even a bigger deal out of it.

Comments?

I found a really nice oil tank from the scrap yard. There are no scratches, and it still has the label on top. It appears that replacing the oil tank (I decided now is the time to do it) is going to be a MAJOR pain in the ass. Looks like I'll need a 27mm and possibly a 28mm wrench. My adjustable wrench is too large to fit into the frame. Has anyone ever done this?

[Bob Wessner]

It was probably lost by the previous owner (easy to do). I wouldn't stop riding, but I would consider getting the correct washer (it's quite thin) and install it with the next oil change. I tend to be a "they did it for a reason" type.  Use and old piece of window screen on top of the pan to catch it when I do an oil change. It saves fishing around in the drain pan for the !@# thing.

[MCRider]

I agree with Bob.

As to the tank, I think the procedure is to remove it at the engine (remove footpeg, etc.) Then swap the tank to the lines, then reinstall.  When pulling an engine we always take the tank off at the engine, leaving the lines attached to the tank.

Be careful reinstaling the 6mm bolts that hold the lines to the engine. They've been known t cross thread.

[ekpent]

Do you guys only drain the oil tank (plug), pan (plug), and filter? Are there more plugs to remove on a 78?

I am always amazed at how much extra dirty oil I get out of the engine when changing when I tip the bike way over on both sides then straight up again one side at a time.Lots of old oil gets trapped in covers and other hiding places in there if folks just only use the centerstand to do it.

[fendersrule]

Thanks guys for the response. I'll order a washer and have it installed during the next oil change cycle.

As far as the oil tank, what exactly do you mean "at the engine"?

I do plan on doing a frame-off resto on the '78 in probably another year (it looks mighty nice now, but my CB450 will be restored so I'll need something else to keep me busy , so if it's in infinitely easier to wait until I pull the motor, then I can live with my tank until then. My tank has a big scratch (I'm assuming from a hanging helmet) and it's missing the label. Then again, it's also covered by a side cover! If I wanted to swap the oil tanks now, besides removing the foot peg (which can be a pain), what else would you remove? I'm contemplating on waiting on to do the oil tank when I do the frame resto.

[Bob Wessner]

When you get that far (removing the oil tank) if it's winter and you have time on your hands, take a peek down in the tank. I did one winter a couple of years ago. The pipe into the tank at the bottom has a slight lip inside the tank. There's oil at the very bottom that never drains because of the lip. Over time it becomes this crusty black mess that contributes to the "gee, my oil got dirty fast" syndrome. Took some scrubbing and solvent, but finely got the tank insides looking new. Might do it again in about 40 years. 

I think he was saying leave the hoses attached at the tank and just unscrew the hoses at the engine end.

[fendersrule]

You know, that probably will be easier. I'm finding that disconnecting the hoses at the tank (while installed) is a pretty acrobatic thing to attempt.....and you'd better have the right, skinniest tools to do so.

So if I wanted to remove then at the engine (now it makes sense ), I can see why removing the footpeg would be a given. Anything else?

[MCRider]

As far as the oil tank, what exactly do you mean "at the engine"?

Right, the oil lines are held into the engine by 2 6mm bolts each. Easy Peezy.

Foot peg, loosen the brake adjuster to the max, to allow the pedal to droop. OR take it off too.

I think this would be easier than getting at the lines on the tank while ts in the frame.

[fendersrule]

Thanks MCRider. I'll also take a look at my new tank, and clean the outlets out really good too while I'm there. I'll take some pictures of this stuff along the way.

I plan on picking up some peanut oil on the way home.

[fendersrule]

Before:

After:


Fun:

[flybox1]

Magnets on the oil filter? That's a new one for me.

[Bankerdanny]

It's the same concept as a magnetic plug. You can buy magnets specifically to attach to the outside of cartridge type filters.

[Cam]

I'm sure this goes without saying but be sure to remove the oil cap before draining. It's amazing how much oil comes rushing out if you forget.