I agree that a kill switch is important, but "to each his own". I also always use a deadman switch clipped to me whenever I go offroad riding. (not on a SOHC4 as a rule!)
The starter safety unit is dead easy to delete, just ground one solenoid wire directly and wire a starter switch to power the other one.
Adding a headlight relay to keep its power load out of the ignition key is a good idea. If you do that, it wouldn't be too hard to add a starter bypass function as well - but I don't think it is necessary.
If the additional headlight load is dropping voltage enough that the bike won't start then you have a battery problem that needs attention, or a starting problem: the bike should start with a second or two of electric starting.
As a rule I recommend "first thing in the morning" starts using the kicker. Grinding the starter for a long time getting a balky cold engine to start drains the battery and wears out the starter motor and its drivetrain. Then, if you're commuting in typical city traffic, the battery will probably not be recharged after your ride.
Modern bikes without kickstarters are different, these were designed with much more powerful alternators... and fuel injected engines should start after a couple of crank turns.
